Spain: On to San Sebastian

FLYING TO SAN SEBASTIAN

We survived our first experience with Vueling Airlines at the Barcelona Airport for our flight to Bilbao.   Spain is into self service in a big way.  We located the row of baggage drop stations for our flight, but first we had to print the bag tags. That part was relatively easy.  Putting them on the bags just so requires following the directions on the back of the tag, or prevailing upon a nearby airline staff person to assist.  Then you go up to an available station where you first have to position your bag so that that the code on the tag is read into the system, then you hoist your bag on the belt.  Success!

Our flight was smooth, but upon arrival and deplaning, we had to stand in a closed off area for about 10 minutes or so while another flight’s passengers all deplaned. We surmised that it was an international flight, hence the separation. The Bilbao airport was quiet compared to Barcelona’s and our luggage came fairly quickly.

SAN SEBASTIÁN—FIRST IMPRESSIONS

Beach at San Sebastián

The drive to San Sebastián from the Bilbao airport was pretty and green backed by the nearby mountains.  My first impression of San Sebastián was one of light.  Golden sunlight, sparkling water, and Concha (Shell in English) Beach bathed in glowing warmth.  Couples and families were sunbathing, and some braver souls were frolicking in the deep blue water. 

The shore of the Bay of Biscay curves from a row of grand hotels at one end of the beach to the old town of San Sebastián.  A very pretty setting looking out to the Atlantic Ocean. Concha Beach is one of three beaches on this coast, one a surfing beach, and one a man made beach.

Beach & Old Quarter

We walked along the bay promenade to the Old Quarter just getting a sense of things.  Unlike Barcelona or even Tarragona, the old quarter here is much more of a rectilinear grid. 

This twin-towered civic building is imposing at one end not far beyond an elaborate carousel. 

Carousel
Constitution Square

We made our way to Constitution Square, originally created in 1689, but then rebuilt in 1820, after the city was sacked and burned in 1813.  Today, this very wide space is used mainly for festivals and fairs.

DINNER

Having traveled much of the day and without any real lunch, we opted for dinner in our hotel’s restaurant.  The Chief Penguin ordered rack of lamb and some fancy potatoes with truffle.  I indulged in beef Chateaubriand with bordelaise sauce and a salad of mixed greens.  The lamb was lean to spare, but the beef was delicious, so I shared some of it with the CP. 

Spain: More Tarragona

Those who know me well know that I like food a lot. And when we travel, the Chief Penguin and I enjoy sampling the specialities of the cuisine in new places. And I write about food extensively. If you are not a foodie, feel free to skip over the detailed explanation of yesterday’s lunch.

We also walked some new streets in Tarragona and happened upon a gathering of local folks listening to and dancing to an exuberant singer/performer in the main square.

LUNCH

Table in El Terrat

After a week of eating tapas for both lunch and dinner, we splurged on a meal at El Terrat. On a street away from the old town and definitely not touristy, El Terrat is helmed by a rising young chef, Moha Quach, of Moroccan heritage.  He offers creative Spanish cuisine focusing on local ingredients from the Tarragona region. The dining room is light with blond wood tables and wood chairs wrapped in green leafy patterned fabric. 

We opted for the a la carte menu and began with a white vermouth with lemon.  Two amuse bouches arrived; a mini crunchy sandwich cookie filled with smoked cheese, and a small “olive” which was an egg that exploded with a burst of intense olive-flavored liquid.  Marvelous!

Tuna in almond cream sauce

My first course was a version of shrimps Romesco with foam on top. The shrimp, nestled in a lavish amount of sauce, were tender and tasty.  The Chief Penguin had marinated tuna and cherry tomatoes in an almond cream sauce.  For entrees, he had a lovely portion of sea bass while I, unusual for me, sampled the shoulder of lamb tagine with carrots. 

Lamb tagine

The lamb was luscious and delicious.  Several slivers of citrus peel added just the right piquant note. To go with the entrees, we each had a glass of a different local red wine.  Tiny balls of a coconut confection and a fruity one rounded out the meal as our dessert.  This was a treat!

SIGHTS

Central Boulevard
Rambla Nova

Later in the afternoon, we explored a bit more of the new section of Tarragona and discovered the lovely boulevard that runs down toward the sea and the beach.  Named Rambla Nova, it was built in 1854 to connect the upper and lower parts of the city.  Flanked by restaurants, shops, and apartment buildings on either side, it is perfect for strolling.  White benches entice one to pause and just watch the world.

Admiral de Lluria

Before the sea at the beginning, is a large monument with a statue of Admiral Roger de Lauria.  Lauria was a 13th century Sicilian knight and likely the most talented naval tactician of the Middle Ages.

Celebration on the Forum Plaza
Singer and locals

In the evening, we returned to the old town and the main square, attracted by singing and dancing.  We were not sure what the celebration was all about, but a performer was encouraging the women and children to come forward and dance. 

Men and others sat watching from the low wall nearby or at café tables enjoying beer and wine. 

Fun celebration in Forum, Tarragona
Women in T-shirts, girls dancing, & an interesting couple

The music was lively and included several familiar songs including Springsteen’s Born in the USA.  I had fun gazing at the scene and tried to discreetly capture as many photos of couples and others as I could. 

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Spain: Tarragona

On to Tarragona

We left Barcelona and made the one-hour-plus drive south to Tarragona on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea.   Tarragona was the first Roman colony outside of Italy, making it an ancient city with many layers of history from Roman times to the Medieval period to the present day.  After checking into our very contemporary hotel overlooking the sea, we crossed the Roman road, today a main artery, walked a short distance, and then climbed 2 sets of stairs to the higher level of the old town. It was Saturday, and a farmers’ market was bustling with people and produce, while sidewalk cafes served patrons enjoying drinks or snacks.

Eating in Tarragona

Sidewalk dining in Tarragona

We meandered a bit looking for an enticing spot for some lunch.  Many of the cafes were already full so we snagged the last table at what turned out to be Home Run Food.  The patatas bravas were covered in melted cheese and dotted with slices of pepperoni (not the usual preparation), and the mixed croquettes were acceptable, while the chicken fingers with mustard dipping sauce were the best of the lot.  The Chief Penguin was skeptical at best about my ordering them, but he ate several!

In the evening, we wanted to come back to a small restaurant with a more varied menu. After our rigorous afternoon tour, we were ready to sit at a comfortable place.  The town plaza was crowded with folks awaiting a live music event, and nearby restaurants were busy or not yet open.  When we found our desired restaurant, it was closed! 

Tired and hungry, we walked back to the hotel to order food at the main floor bar.  It was minutes away from closing and did not serve any food.  The main restaurant didn’t open until 8:00 pm (it was about 7:15), so we were directed to the rooftop restaurant. Up to the 6th floor, outside on the pool terrace on a breezy night, we found a table and inquired about food.  Only drinks now, no food until 8:00 pm!  We ordered a glass of wine each and at 7:57, the waiter came to take our food order. 

Vegetables & hummus

The tempura veggies with olive hummus were particularly good, and the salad of cherry tomatoes and chunks of tomatoes with slices of tuna was a good concept which would have been better with truly ripe tomatoes.

Roman Tour

Roman amphitheater, Tarragona

We began our afternoon tour with the Roman amphitheater that is in front of and about at the same level as the beach.  This stadium with higher walls than exist today could accommodate 4,000 people. Our British guide was especially knowledgeable about this history and keen on explaining the various levels of warriors and their weaponry and how that played out in the fighting. A whole series of fights and gory deaths occurred in this space, some ordered by the emperor.  Today, it’s a peaceful empty space.

From the amphitheater, we walked back toward the city walls and explored the remains of the Circus where thousands of spectators watched chariot races. 

Example of tunnel leading to level of Circus remains

We also walked in the amazing vaults that were the foundation for part of the Roman Forum, a vast public square that still exists today and is where the farmers’ market and the evening entertainment took place.

Main facade of the Tarragona Cathedral

Up hill a bit more is the Cathedral of Tarragona, a medieval church that was built between the mid-12th century and 1331 A.D. This stunning architecture dominates Tarragona’s skyline and is a combination of Romanesque elements and Gothic ones.

Tarragona cathedral at night

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Spain: Barcelona Out & About

What We Saw

Today we spent more time exploring the sights of Barcelona from the main government buildings in Plaza San Jaime to remains of the Temple of Augustus to the Palau del La Musica Catalana to the Inglesia de Santa Maria Del Mar. In between, we managed to sandwich in some time in the Picasso Museum.

Here are some photos from the various stops we made.

Catalan Regional Government Building
Four columns of Roman Temple of Augustus (1st century BC)
Palau de la Musica Catalana

Palace of Catalan Music

The Palace of Catalan Music is another example of Modernism architecture which celebrates ceramic tiles, stained glass, and sculpture. Completed in 1908, the architect was Lluis Domenich i Montaner (1850-1923), designer of the Sant Pau Hospital.

Our excellent guide, one of the staff there, explained that the main hall was designed specifically for choirs, often called Orpheus choirs, and not for orchestras. Sculptures of muses with a variety of instruments and other figures surround the stage, and one sees just a few of the 4,000 pipes making up a massive organ. We got to hear a Handel piece which displayed the full tonal range of this instrument.

What is most striking is the inverted dome in the center of the ceiling, but also magnificent are the stained glass windows on the side walls, the butterfly-like wings on the ceiling, and the carved roses of red and white.

Stained glass inverted dome with choristers
Upper level seating showing off the stained glass windows & ceiling
Pink and white roses on the ceiling

Iglesia de Santa Maria del Mar

Church of Santa Maria

Built in just 88 years between 1329 and 1383, thanks to the donations of ordinary people, the Church of Santa Maria is a stunning example of the Gothic style. Twice damaged by earthquake and fire, it has a minimum of decoration which shows off the singular beauty of its columns and ceiling. And its columns are spaced wider than any other Gothic church in Europe, a distance of forty-three feet from column center to column center.

Sanctuary, Church of Santa Maria
Black Madonna, church of Santa Maria

Other Sights

The Picasso Museum was amazing and gave us a real sense of Picasso’s creativity from a very early age with paintings from his teenage years before he went to Paris to study. There, he was considered so advanced that he entered at the last year of the course. From his years in Barcelona doing landscapes to portraits in Paris to his Blue and Pink Periods to his return to Cubism in 1957 (it was totally dismissed when presented 40 years earlier), it’s a fascinating journey of one artist’s growth and development. Alas, I didn’t take any photos, not sure they were even allowed.

We ended this outing with a quick glimpse of El Fossar de les Moreres, a square built over a cemetery where Catalans were buried after the War of the Spanish Succession in 1714. There’s a red torch sculpture, an eternal flame.

Memorial Square

So much history in this city over so many centuries from being a Roman colony to the Middle Ages and its later growth as a maritime and commercial power, the repression of the Spanish Civil War and Franco’s rule to democratic government and cultural renaissance from 1975 to the present. In our few days here, the Chief Penguin and I only scratched the surface of all there is to see and do. But, we stayed in the Old Town, the Gothic Quarter, and walking those narrow streets between ancient walls was an ever present reminder of all that has gone on here.

Note: Photos from JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)