Spain: More San Sebastian

WALKING CENTER CITY

Yesterday we were on our own and enjoyed seeing a bit more of San Sebastián than we already had. The hotel manager recommended a photography exhibit so we headed in that direction. We walked through center city across the Urumea River on the Maria Cristina bridge which links to the train and bus stations. Built in 1904-1905, it’s a stone bridge with three arches and most notably four obelisks at the four corners, each topped with sculptures in the Belle Epoque style. They are copies of ones in Paris.

One of 4 obelisks at the ends of Maria Cristina Bridge

Our destination was the Tabakalera, an arts and community center for films and exhibitions, located next to the train station. Like Brightleaf Square in Durham, North Carolina, it’s a re-purposed tobacco warehouse. But more industrial looking than the brick ones in Durham.

The lobby has some funky seating and a reflective art piece hanging from the ceiling.

Main floor space, Tabakalera

PHOTOGRAPHY EXHIBIT

We viewed Family Ties, an exhibit of large-scale color photographs by Tina Barney. To our surprise, Barney is an American artist whose work is primarily in a New York gallery. She grew up on the East Coast in an affluent environment, and her works reflect that in the dress and settings of the people she has photographed. Many reflect wealth and achievement, but to my eye, not necessarily happiness or contentment.

Granddaughter

They range from a perfect hostess with a carefully laid table and more glassware behind her, a man with his two grown sons, a granddaughter with grandparents in the background, and the artist’s self portrait.

Self-Portait in Red Raincoat,1990

The lighting in the exhibition was intense which made getting good photos difficult, hence the occasional blue streak.

IMPRESSIVE CHURCHES

San Sebastian has two large churches, one a basilica and the other a cathedral. The Cathedral of the Good Shepherd, the newer of the two, was constructed in the late 19th century in a Neo-Gothic style. Its style emphasizes its verticality. It has only been designated a cathedral since 1953.

Side view, Cathedral of the Good Shepherd

The Basilica of Santa Maria in the heart of the Old Town was built between 1743 and 1774. Its main entrance is on a straight line from the cathedral and when standing in front of one, you can see the other. The baroque facade is topped by a statue of Saint Sebastian the Martyr. Regular organ and choir concerts take place in this sanctuary.

Looking toward Baroque Basilica of Santa Maria

Spain: San Sebastián City & Pinxtos

CITY HIGHLIGHTS

Beach on eastern side of San Sebastian

Today we spent part of the day with Kai, a young guide who traveled and lived in other countries and worked in the hospitality industry before becoming a guide.  A native of San Sebastián, he loves his home city and presents it well.  With him, we went from the east side of town, close to our hotel, to the opposite side on the west. 

On the east end, we learned about an activist group, ETA or Euskadi Ta Askatasuna (Basque Homeland and Liberty), that agitated for an independent Basque state across the Basque territories in northern Spain and southwestern France.  It came into existence in the 1970’s during the Franco period when the Basque language and culture were being suppressed. The group was violent for a period resulting in many deaths, but in 2011, it ceased most activity and then dissolved in 2018.

“Dove of Peace” sculpture

This iron sculpture of a white pigeon or Dove of Peace with its wings spread was meant to be a symbol of San Sebastian’s commitment to peace and nonviolence during a turbulent time.  It was constructed of metal to withstand the ocean winds.

Furthest “Wind Comb”
Most accessible one
Grasping the rocks

On the west side, a series of three metal sculpture are anchored into the coastal rocks. Intended to catch the action of the waves and entitled “Wind Comb,” they were designed by Eduardo Chillida Jantegui (1924-2002), a renowned San Sebastián sculptor. They were installed in 1977. The day was calm, so no wave or wind action.

Layers of stone pushed upright

These sculptures and the surrounding stone formations are stunning.

We also stopped at a lookout point and an historic amusement park for some marvelous views overlooking the bay.

PINXTOS TOUR

Catalonia (Barcelona and environs) is famous for its tapas; in Basque Country, it is pinxtos.  Go into almost any bar or restaurant in San Sebastian’s old quarter, and you will see an array of cold pinxtos on the counter, handheld treats looking appetizingly good.  Our guide Kai told us that these were fine, but that he thought the hot pinxtos and other ones ordered from the menu were better. 

Pinxtos are usually small bites, often on a slice of bread, or held together with a toothpick. The name, “pinxto” comes from the Spanish verb, “pinchar” which means to skewer or pierce.

At Atari Gastroteka for foie gras and cod

We were on the early side for our tasting tour, starting at 1:00 pm, and so, we got a table in every restaurant but the last one. There, except for a few tables with chairs, it was only standing up at the bar itself or at lower tables, which we did like the women above.

With Kai as our knowledgeable local foodie, we shared pinxtos and tried local wines at four restaurants/bars. We then went on to a bakery to buy pastry to have with coffee at an outdoor cafe.

Pork with pickled vegetables
Foie gras with white chocolate “mayonnaise”
Cod in piquillo pepper sauce

In addition and not pictured, we had a lovely scallop on a shell in a green curry sauce. We also sampled dishes I would never have ordered including rooster crest that was crispy and a base for tidbits of chicken in a creamy sauce. The gazpacho had pickle slices on it and was drizzled with fragrant basil oil.

Rooster comb & silky gazpacho
Two Basque pastries
Cafe site for dessert

It was a delicious and fun experience to sample this wide variety of small bites at Kai’s favorite places. Overall, a most memorable outing! Do any of these treats tempt you?

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

 

Spain: On to San Sebastian

FLYING TO SAN SEBASTIAN

We survived our first experience with Vueling Airlines at the Barcelona Airport for our flight to Bilbao.   Spain is into self service in a big way.  We located the row of baggage drop stations for our flight, but first we had to print the bag tags. That part was relatively easy.  Putting them on the bags just so requires following the directions on the back of the tag, or prevailing upon a nearby airline staff person to assist.  Then you go up to an available station where you first have to position your bag so that that the code on the tag is read into the system, then you hoist your bag on the belt.  Success!

Our flight was smooth, but upon arrival and deplaning, we had to stand in a closed off area for about 10 minutes or so while another flight’s passengers all deplaned. We surmised that it was an international flight, hence the separation. The Bilbao airport was quiet compared to Barcelona’s and our luggage came fairly quickly.

SAN SEBASTIÁN—FIRST IMPRESSIONS

Beach at San Sebastián

The drive to San Sebastián from the Bilbao airport was pretty and green backed by the nearby mountains.  My first impression of San Sebastián was one of light.  Golden sunlight, sparkling water, and Concha (Shell in English) Beach bathed in glowing warmth.  Couples and families were sunbathing, and some braver souls were frolicking in the deep blue water. 

The shore of the Bay of Biscay curves from a row of grand hotels at one end of the beach to the old town of San Sebastián.  A very pretty setting looking out to the Atlantic Ocean. Concha Beach is one of three beaches on this coast, one a surfing beach, and one a man made beach.

Beach & Old Quarter

We walked along the bay promenade to the Old Quarter just getting a sense of things.  Unlike Barcelona or even Tarragona, the old quarter here is much more of a rectilinear grid. 

This twin-towered civic building is imposing at one end not far beyond an elaborate carousel. 

Carousel
Constitution Square

We made our way to Constitution Square, originally created in 1689, but then rebuilt in 1820, after the city was sacked and burned in 1813.  Today, this very wide space is used mainly for festivals and fairs.

DINNER

Having traveled much of the day and without any real lunch, we opted for dinner in our hotel’s restaurant.  The Chief Penguin ordered rack of lamb and some fancy potatoes with truffle.  I indulged in beef Chateaubriand with bordelaise sauce and a salad of mixed greens.  The lamb was lean to spare, but the beef was delicious, so I shared some of it with the CP. 

Spain: More Tarragona

Those who know me well know that I like food a lot. And when we travel, the Chief Penguin and I enjoy sampling the specialities of the cuisine in new places. And I write about food extensively. If you are not a foodie, feel free to skip over the detailed explanation of yesterday’s lunch.

We also walked some new streets in Tarragona and happened upon a gathering of local folks listening to and dancing to an exuberant singer/performer in the main square.

LUNCH

Table in El Terrat

After a week of eating tapas for both lunch and dinner, we splurged on a meal at El Terrat. On a street away from the old town and definitely not touristy, El Terrat is helmed by a rising young chef, Moha Quach, of Moroccan heritage.  He offers creative Spanish cuisine focusing on local ingredients from the Tarragona region. The dining room is light with blond wood tables and wood chairs wrapped in green leafy patterned fabric. 

We opted for the a la carte menu and began with a white vermouth with lemon.  Two amuse bouches arrived; a mini crunchy sandwich cookie filled with smoked cheese, and a small “olive” which was an egg that exploded with a burst of intense olive-flavored liquid.  Marvelous!

Tuna in almond cream sauce

My first course was a version of shrimps Romesco with foam on top. The shrimp, nestled in a lavish amount of sauce, were tender and tasty.  The Chief Penguin had marinated tuna and cherry tomatoes in an almond cream sauce.  For entrees, he had a lovely portion of sea bass while I, unusual for me, sampled the shoulder of lamb tagine with carrots. 

Lamb tagine

The lamb was luscious and delicious.  Several slivers of citrus peel added just the right piquant note. To go with the entrees, we each had a glass of a different local red wine.  Tiny balls of a coconut confection and a fruity one rounded out the meal as our dessert.  This was a treat!

SIGHTS

Central Boulevard
Rambla Nova

Later in the afternoon, we explored a bit more of the new section of Tarragona and discovered the lovely boulevard that runs down toward the sea and the beach.  Named Rambla Nova, it was built in 1854 to connect the upper and lower parts of the city.  Flanked by restaurants, shops, and apartment buildings on either side, it is perfect for strolling.  White benches entice one to pause and just watch the world.

Admiral de Lluria

Before the sea at the beginning, is a large monument with a statue of Admiral Roger de Lauria.  Lauria was a 13th century Sicilian knight and likely the most talented naval tactician of the Middle Ages.

Celebration on the Forum Plaza
Singer and locals

In the evening, we returned to the old town and the main square, attracted by singing and dancing.  We were not sure what the celebration was all about, but a performer was encouraging the women and children to come forward and dance. 

Men and others sat watching from the low wall nearby or at café tables enjoying beer and wine. 

Fun celebration in Forum, Tarragona
Women in T-shirts, girls dancing, & an interesting couple

The music was lively and included several familiar songs including Springsteen’s Born in the USA.  I had fun gazing at the scene and tried to discreetly capture as many photos of couples and others as I could. 

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)