More Bethlehem: Steel Mill to Casino

Bethlehem Steel, with roots in two earlier companies, was founded in 1899 and only ceased production here in 1995.  The company had plants and subsidiaries around the world. Bethlehem Steel produced the steel for the Empire State Building and its west coast subsidiary manufactured the steel and did most of the construction of the Golden Gate Bridge .

Around 31,000 people worked here in this Lehigh Valley plant at its peak in the mid 1950s. When the day shift ended, traffic back-ups on Southside Bethlehem streets were the norm.  Lehigh University timed some events and classes to avoid the traffic.

Since the company’s beginnings, blast furnaces and hulking structures have dominated Bethlehem’s skyline near the river.  During production, the smell of sulfur (like rotten eggs) filled the air along with coal smoke; soot and red iron ore dust often settled on cars and swimming pools. Fortunately, when the Chief Penguin and I arrived in 1998, the air was clear!

In the early 2000s, locals and developers were interested in making something of the remains of this extensive site and first created SteelStacks.  This 10-acre site is a cultural and event space offering concerts and shows and is home to ArtsQuest (performing arts center, cinema, restaurant) an ice rink, an outdoor amphitheater, and the Hoover Mason Trestle (a public skywalk). Also on the site is the long-planned National Museum of Industrial History, an affiliate of the Smithsonian which opened in 2016. 

In 2015, the CP and I walked the impressive Hoover Mason Trestle for a lesson in steel production. (See images above and below.)

When we lived in Bethlehem, ArtsQuest was just the Banana Factory on West 3rd Street with programs and studio space for local artists. That building is now gone, and a new 5-story one, the ArtsQuest Creative Factory, is under construction and slated to open by early 2027.

At about the same time (early 2000s), developers proposed the addition of a casino with restaurants, shops, and a hotel.  Some locals were opposed to having a gambling venue here, not that far from the university.  Others in the community saw the economic benefits of this project in creating jobs and attracting visitors.  The Chief Penguin, then the Lehigh University president, was urged by some to publicly oppose the casino.  He did not. 

In 2009, Sands Casino opened in Bethlehem and its hotel in 2011.  In 2019, another corporation bought the casino and re-branded it as Wind Creek Bethlehem which is its name today.

I made a reservation at Urban Table for lunch and off we went to find Wind Creek.  Lots of cars were in the parking lot, and it was not clear where to find the restaurant.  We entered the events building, took the escalator up, and were greeted by a raft of outlet stores.  Seeing no signs, I called the restaurant and got directions.  Continue through the stores, get to the casino entrance, turn left, and watch for Urban Table signs.  We found it! 

We had a delightful waiter from New Jersey, who likes and studies foreign languages, and a tasty lunch.  I enjoyed a delicious thick tomato bisque with croutons, and the CP had corn and crab chowder to start. We shared a Caesar salad and an order of beef empanadas.  The food exceeded our expectations. 

Casino entrance

We had no intention of entering the casino. But, from behind the low barrier, we could see how many people were there (quite a few) and note bright screen after bright screen and several rows of slot machines. It’s an expansive space and dark, lit mainly by the screens and colored lights above and around.

After taking a few photos, we departed, driving through SteelStacks on our way back to historic Main Street. Curiosity satisfied. No need to return to gamble.

Note: Photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Back to Bethlehem: History & Re-connection

Bell House 1745 (girls’ school, 1749)

A group of Moravians from Germany founded Bethlehem in 1741.  They established their church, built a school, created a bookstore, Moravian Book Shop, and built separate residences for men (brethren) and women (sisters and widows.) Many of these early 18th century buildings remain today, well preserved and elegant in their simple lines.

Central Church background with another Moravian building

Central Moravian Church, the mother church in this country, dominates the corner of Church and Main Streets, an imposing presence with a striking bell tower. 

In 2024, after a long decade of applications, documentation, and persistence by the Historic Bethlehem organization, the Historic Moravian District was named a UNESCO World Heritage site, along with Moravian settlements in Germany, Northern Ireland, and Denmark. 

More Moravian buildings near church

Visitors to Bethlehem can also see the Bell House and Old Chapel, tour the Moravian and Kemerer Museums, and as a bonus, discover the Colonial Industrial Quarter with its 1762 Waterworks (a National Historic Landmark), 1761 Tannery, and blacksmith shop from 1750.

 Returning to Bethlehem, I was delighted to see the greater acknowledgement and presence of this city’s unique history and to have a chance encounter with LoriAnn Wukitsch, CEO of Historic Bethlehem.  When I lived here, I served on the Historic Bethlehem board.

Studying on the campus green

In 1865, Asa Packer founded Lehigh University across the Lehigh River in what was then called South Bethlehem. It was the industrial side and became home to a large steel plant.  North Bethlehem (Moravian) and South Bethlehem (steel) did not officially become one city until 1917. 

Side view, Lehigh President’s House, 1868

From 1998 until 2006, the Chief Penguin and I lived in Bethlehem in the center of the Lehigh campus.  He was president, and I had dual roles as a full-time librarian/development officer and First Lady and was involved in the community.  We lived in the stately 1868 President’s House.  Its renovation was featured in Architectural Digest in 1999.

This week we returned to Bethlehem and Lehigh to re-connect with the campus and with longtime friends and colleagues.  We were here briefly a few years ago for the installation of the current president, but not for very long. The campus is still beautiful and shows well! 

Clayton University Center

One day we checked out every floor of the recently renovated Clayton University Center from new spaces for student clubs, the Lehigh Pub bistro, and an added set of eateries for students offering everything from pizza, salads and soups to Mediterranean fare and barbecue. All spaces are light and bright and invite conversation and collaboration. 

For old-times sake, stopping in Linderman Library was also a must.  The reading room is still grand and glorious, the rotunda with its stained-glass dome lovely, and the entire building filled with many places to sit and study or just ponder life.

This historic library (1878 and 1929) was most recently renovated and updated in 2007. (I was involved in that project.) Since its renovation, Linderman is frequently cited as one of the most beautiful libraries anywhere. Kudos to the university for preserving this special place.

The Chief Penguin and I also enjoyed a series of lunches and dinners with many friends and re-connected with others at a Lehigh breakfast.  That afternoon, we had the fun of being at a home football game in Goodman Stadium.  The Marching 97 (now 113 or so strong) gave a great halftime performance ending with spelling out Lehigh.

At the game

It was a sunny day, the temperature was perfect, and Lehigh remained undefeated!  

From the breakfast events through dinner at the local country club, from beginning to end, this day was a treat.  It turns out you can go home again—if only for a brief interlude!

Note: All photos but the last one ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Fall Interlude: Music & More in Philadelphia

Thursday evening was the opening concert of the orchestra’s 2026-27 season, and it was fabulous!  It’s the 25th anniversary of the Kimmel Center and the recently named Marian Anderson Hall made for a magnificent concert setting.  It was Philadelphia at its finest. 

Philadelphia Orchestra opening night

A new institution on the Center City art scene, Calder Gardens is dedicated to Alexander Calder who lived from 1898 to 1976.  A Philadelphian by birth, Calder came from a family of sculptors as both his father and grandfather were artists.  His father designed the Swann Memorial Fountain here and the Washington Square Arch in Manhattan, while his grandfather produced architectural sculptures including the statue of William Penn on top of Philadelphia City Hall. This Calder created both mobiles and monumental abstract sculptures.

Exterior of Calder Gardens complex

Calder Gardens is both gardens or plantings and a low-slung long building that is partly below ground.  A slightly meandering path through beds of grasses and rushes and the occasional stand of flowers leads to an unmarked entrance.  The indoor sculptures are downstairs, and there are several outside accessed only from that level.  There are no labels or interpretative panels for any work, and the intention is that one views the work in a contemplative manner. 

One of the few large works inside

On our arrival day, we took advantage of the pleasant weather and enjoyed lunch outside at Rouge overlooking Rittenhouse Square.  Keeping it on the light side, the Chief Penguin ordered fried calamari, and I had half of a tasty chicken sandwich.  We shared my fries.  That night we sampled the creative cuisine at a. kitchen.  He was delighted with his tuna crudo dish and the generous gem salad.  I tried the homemade spaghetti with a light sausage and fennel sauce.   

Before going to Calder Gardens, we walked to Callowhill Street where we were told there was a Pain Quotidienne.  No such eatery in sight, so we turned around and went to the Logan.  The Logan is the site of the former Four Seasons Hotel and the Fountain Room, one of the city’s top two restaurants in its day.  Helmed then by Jean-Marie Lacroix, it and Le Bec Fin competed for the most discriminating diners.  Sadly, neither restaurant exists today.

In 1990, we and good friends Ellen and Bob dined in the Fountain Room at one of the city’s annual The Cook and the Book events. Julia Child was the featured guest. Unlike other chefs we’d met, tall Julia stood regally at the entrance to the dining room, greeting everyone and shaking hands. Later, she made the traditional round to the tables signing copies of her cookbook. It was such a treat to meet her and, without a doubt, the most memorable Cook and the Book event we attended.

The food at these two restaurants was refined, sophisticated, and creative.  We had the pleasure of meals at each and have fond memories of the dessert trolley and the cheese cart at Le Bec Fin.  Georges Perrier was its master chef, and we savored the products of his talent. 

Today, the Fountain Room is now Urban Farmer, a casual restaurant reflecting today’s farm to table movement.  While attractive but not elegant, it fit the bill nicely for lunch.  Their $17 Quick Cut menu offered a choice of two dishes plus cornbread.  The CP had the potato leek soup followed by a Caesar salad; I opted for a Caesar salad with chicken.  Pleasant surroundings and all very good.

Cornbread silo

The next night we tried Miss Saigon, a Vietnamese restaurant not too far from the Kimmel Center.  The reviews were laudatory, and the lower level was full of diners when we left; our spring rolls seemed off but the lemongrass chicken curry was reasonably good. A disappointing meal in a lovely setting.

After visiting a good friend in Jenkintown, we returned to Gran Caffe L’Aquila, a favorite restauant from our visit two years ago.  With the house salad, beautiful, sliced prosciutto, fried artichokes, and a delectable ravioli entrée, we were very content!   We are here a few more days and look forward to more great food.

Note: Photos by the Farringtons.

Carolina Comments: Books, Drama, Tapestry

(simonspeakers.com)

In the early 1970s, Eileen O’Malley is still mourning the death of her brother in the Vietnam War when she marries Naval officer Paul Archer.  He works in radiological control on submarines and soon, they are posted to tiny La Maddalena, off the coast of Sardinia.  Here, Eileen must adjust to the protocols and behavior expected of navy wives and to living in a culture where she doesn’t understand or speak the language.  When locals and scientists raise concerns about possible nuclear contamination, and there are protests, Eileen is unsure whom to believe.  Along the way, she becomes friendly with an Italian journalist, and relations between her and husband Paul are strained.  

From the opening chapter, it is clear that Eileen is relating the story of her life in Italy to someone, but it is not clear until the very end who that someone is.  The result is that the novel includes both very intimate details about her marriage as well as technical information about the submarines and what’s involved in monitoring and maintaining them along that coast.  It’s a jarring mix at times with emotions up against what almost reads like a technical treatise.  

For me, this was an interesting novel, but not a great one.  I was curious how Eileen would resolve the issues in her life but put off by some of the submarine details.  The latter drove down the narrative arc and made the book feel longer than it needed to be.  Overall, a historical novel that perhaps tries too hard.  

As a footnote, I should add that Beanland’s father was stationed in La Maddalena when she was a young child, hence her rationale for the setting and the submarines. (~JWFarrington)

Interior (julietbooks.com)

In a small white frame building with a pink door and pink shutters, Juliet Books beckons one inside.  It’s a smallish space done up with charming book-themed wallpaper, tables and shelves of books in all genres, a case with cold drinks for purchase, and in the side room, a café table where one can sit and sip, chat with a friend, or just sit with a book.  A few inviting chairs are also just outside.

I found new books and bestsellers, nonfiction, a young adult section, a romance section (this is Juliet’s place, after all), and placed throughout, racks with appealing and different greeting cards and notecards.  Upstairs, which I haven’t yet visited, is a loft with a children’s book area.

When I was in Maine this summer, I spied Love & Other Monsters by Emily Franklin, a historical novel about Mary Shelley and her stepsister Claire Clarmont.  Rather than buy it then, I made a note and last week happily purchased a copy at Juliet Books.  The stock at Juliet is wide-ranging, but there are not necessarily multiple copies on the shelf.  Staff will gladly order titles not in stock.

Given the store’s location on a short lane across the street from La Farm Bakery (a favorite stop), I will be visiting often.  Founded and owned by Marcie Montague, the store name harkens back to Shakespeare’s Juliet and the owner’s name.   

Michael & Annie (dmtalkies.com

When Sarah Polly, wife of the headmaster of a prestigious private school goes missing, her husband is the initial suspect.  Sarah is also a teacher at the school as is their daughter, Alana.  Michael Polly is a tight-lipped man, who runs a well-ordered school and coaches the rugby team.  Annie Cassidy, a detective assigned to the case with festering issues in her own life, probes Michael to help determine if he is responsible for the crime or not.  

Unfolding over six episodes, this is a chilling and slowly simmering psychological tale of tangled alliances and secret affairs.  If you want lots of action, this is not the series for you.  If you are fascinated by complex characters—Annie being as much so as several of the others—then this is prime viewing.  Highly recommended!

As many of you probably know, the Bayeux Tapestry, about William, the Duke of Normandy’s conquest of England in 1066, is currently on display in London.  Lines are very long and tickets hard to obtain.  In October 2022, the Chief Penguin and I were in France, first in Giverny, then the Normandy Battlefields, and then on to Bayeux.  

We had the pleasure of viewing this hand embroidered piece of art in a quiet museum with no line (very few people around in fact) and an excellent audio guide explaining what was happening in each section. In its entirety, the tapestry is almost 230 feet long.  Section 48 above is near the end of the battle.  It was a memorable experience.

Paired with the famous tapestry was David Hockney’s own long mural, A Year in Normandy. Made up of multiple images, it depicts the changing seasons from spring and summer through fall to winter.  And as one would expect from Hockney, the colors are bright and bold.  

Note: Unattributed photo by JWFarrington.