Reading and Roaming

Portugal: More Lisbon

SQUARES, SHOPS, & TREATS

In our two days plus in Lisbon, we explored four major neighborhoods with Tiago, a guide who is also a former architect. He was brimming with facts and enthusiasm for his city.

Rua Augusta Arch at end of Commerce Square. This arch stands where the royal palace was before the 1755 earthquake. The square is very large abutting the Tagus River at the other end. It was “the door to Lisbon” and where commercial ships used to dock to unload their goods.

We learned about the history of Lisbon after the 1755 earthquake, visited several traditional shops (sardines, anyone?), walked some of its most famous and beautiful squares, and saw numerous monuments to historical figures from politicians to poets.

For tourists, Lisbon’s most famous square is most likely the one known informally as Rossio, but officially Plaça Dom Pedro IV, after the column of this king in the center.

Its cobblestones have a wavy pattern which makes it look like they are rolling or moving. The square has been in existence since the Middle Ages. Today, it is surrounded by cafes and shops and is a meeting place for locals and tourists.

Pillory of Lisbon, national monument, 19th c.

There were surprises like the pink street overhung with multi-colored umbrellas. There’s also a street with blue painted pavement, unusual, but not so colorful.

Later, we stopped at a hole-in-the-wall, but well marked, counter for a taste of ginjinha, a deep red liqueur made from small somewhat sour ginja berries.

You can get it with or without a berry in the glass—extra cost for any berries! The drink was fine, the berry sharp almost bitter.

TILES OLD & CONTEMPORARY

When you wander in Lisbon, it’s inevitable that you will see ceramic tiles. Old ones on building facades, contemporary designs on a restaurant wall, and tiles on signs or floors. Patterns range from the familiar blue ones to elaborate abstract designs to more representational styles with faces on them.

Note that the chapel floor is flat, but appears to be 3-dimensional. This church was one that survived the 1755 earthquake.

Below are several contemporary tiles by the French mixed media artist, O Gringo.

Lastly, here is another set of contemporary tiles, one political.

Note: Photos ©by JWFarrington and GCFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Portugal: Traveling to Lisbon

SEVILLE TO LISBON

We traveled to Lisbon by car, and for Europe, it was a long distance, about 6 hours total which included one stop in a picturesque hill town. We passed olive trees, groves and groves of cork trees, and also pine nut trees. Some of the cork trees were very old and still producing. Every 9 years, the bark is stripped of a tree and the number of the year, 25 for this year, is put on the tree to be an indication of when it will be ready to be “harvested” again.

About halfway to Lisbon, we stopped at Monsaraz, a village perched high up built on stone with small shops and restaurants. The shopkeepers and restauranteurs don’t live here, making the town a tourist attraction with no full time residents. It was stunning with its white-washed buildings, dark lattice-like stone streets, gates, and views of the fields below.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

Lisbon suffered a major earthquake in 1755 which destroyed buildings and caused fires. Many buildings one sees in the older part of town, consequently, were built in the late 18th century or early part of the 19th.

Once we had checked into our hotel, we took a short walk around Chiado, the neighborhood in which we were staying. We noted the archaeological museum, buildings in the French bourgeois style with balconies at the windows, and of course, the mosaic patterns on the stone sidewalks.

Sidewalk pattern, square black and white stones laid on the diagonal. In parts of Lisbon, the stone squares are basically cream colored and, some might say, even more attractive. When it rains, the stones get slippery, making sneakers a must. In this city, you are always either going up steeply or coming down slowly. Lisbon is built on hills and not flat.

After our day of travel, we dined at a fish restaurant nearby up the hill. We enjoyed a salad of chunks of tomato and lovely fresh sea bass and grouper, simply prepared and delicious.

Note: Photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Spain: Jerez & Sherry

JEREZ

One of many posters about an upcoming festival

Jerez is a city of about 200,000 people not quite an hour away from Seville. It’s in the province of Cadiz and is the capital of the sherry world. For Americans, the city name is pronounced nothing like it’s spelled, and my rendering of it is, “Hreth.” Also the Spaniards aspirate the ‘j” in a way I have never mastered. Many sherry producers have their headquarters in the middle of Jerez including Tio Pepe, one of the best known in the U. S. There is even a statue of Tio Pepe which translates to “Uncle Joe.’

We spent about two hours with Carmen, a local guide and a native of Jerez. She was warm and engaging and, we learned abut the history and architecture of the town along with some anecdotes and legends which might or might not be fact.

Back view of cathedral, considered more elegant than the front which is a mix of styles

There were few other tourists around, and we felt like we were seeing the real world, the locals out shopping and going about their business.

We also visited the big local market everything from clothing and produce in outside stalls. Inside, a whole hall devoted to fish and seafood next to a much smaller one for meat and poultry. I always like seeing the markets in other countries, and this one was a treat. I was surprised to see so many female fishmongers.

SHERRY BODEGA

After a lunch of shared small dishes (potatoes, tuna two ways, Iberian ham, anchovies on ratatouille toast, and a bit of fino sherry), we visited Lustau, a noted and historic sherry producer.

Over the years, the Chief Penguin and I have drunk a lot of Lustau amontillado, so visiting their cellar was a pleasure. The cellar buildings are old, 1840’s and 1860’s, and cathedral-like with arches and very high ceilings.

Our young tour guide was excellent as she recapped the history of the company. Then in various galleries, midst the barrels in various stages of aging—it takes at least 4 years to make many sherries—she introduced us to 4 different wines ranging in taste from astringently dry to sweet: amontillado, fino, and olorosa among them. She ended our tour with a taste of a lovely vermouth, a more recent addition to their line-up. Hands down, this was the most elegant wine cellar we’ve ever visited!

TOUR GUIDES

We have had a series of excellent guides in Spain, and our last two were equally stellar. They were informative and personable, and we enjoyed our time with them and at lunch this day.

Note: All photos by JWFarrington and friends.

Spain: Discovering Seville

TRADITIONAL & WHIMSICAL

Sevilla or Seville in English is a city of surprises. With about 725,000 people, it’s twice the population of Granada, yet not a huge city like Barcelona or Madrid. Our hotel is in the old town and once was a home that housed several families all living together. It has two courtyards and two levels of rooms around these interior open-air spaces.

On our first day, we walked a bit on our own. In the evening, with guide Manuel, we sampled the fare at two bars/tapas places.

At Bodega La Aurora, we had some local cheese wedges and a bit of fino sherry; going on, we enjoyed Iberian ham, bread, croquettes, a crispy round chickpea cracker with tiny shrimps in it, and some red wine. We had had a substantial lunch, so this was “dinner” Spanish style.

We also went to see Setas de Seville (Seville Mushrooms) an all wood installation of mushroom-shaped parasols in a large square. It is imposing and whimsical at the same time. Designed by the German architect Jurgen Mayer, its official title is Metropol Parasol. Construction began in 2005 and was finished in 2011.

We’ve seen nothing else like it anywhere else. For the price of a ticket, it’s possible to go up top for a view of the city.

PLAZA DE ESPANA

In 1929, Seville hosted the Iber0-American Exposition. The very expansive Plaza de España or “Square of Spain” was built for this occasion in Renaissance Revival style architecture and designed by Anibal Gonzalez. The semi-circular complex with two towers and four bridges is monumental and breathtakingly beautiful.

Spain has 52 provinces or counties and each one of them is represented in tiled alcove with a historic scene, its coat of arms, and a person associated with that province. Within the alcove, there is low bench seating. Each alcove is different and a detailed work of art.

Huelva province was the home of Christopher Columbus and the scene in the center of that alcove shows him and his ships. Each alcove also has a map on the floor showing where that province is located in Spain.

Painted tiles showing Columbus and his ships

Alcove detail showing intricate tile work

The plaza itself is part of Maria Luisa Park and there are impressive entry gates as well as some exposition buildings. I thought this white domed building was particularly striking.

JOTS & JAUNTS

Portugal: More Lisbon

SQUARES, SHOPS, & TREATS

TILES OLD & CONTEMPORARY

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Portugal: Traveling to Lisbon

SEVILLE TO LISBON

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

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Spain: Jerez & Sherry

JEREZ

SHERRY BODEGA

TOUR GUIDES

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Spain: Discovering Seville

TRADITIONAL & WHIMSICAL

PLAZA DE ESPANA

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SQUARES, SHOPS, & TREATS

TILES OLD & CONTEMPORARY

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SEVILLE TO LISBON

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

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JEREZ

SHERRY BODEGA

TOUR GUIDES

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TRADITIONAL & WHIMSICAL

PLAZA DE ESPANA

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