Spain: Tolosa

TOWN OF TOLOSA

Street scene, Tolosa

Today we spent some time in the Basque countryside stopping in Tolosa, south of San Sebastián, on the way.  Tolosa is a junction point between Navarre and San Sebastián and from early times was an important trading area.  Today it has a population of just over 20,000 people and hosts a large and busy Saturday farmer’s market. 

This was evident in the crowded underground parking garage where our guide had to go round and round before he found a spot for the van.  Sensibly, there are small lights over each space, green indicating an empty available space and red one that is occupied.  Looking across the garage, you can then see and head for a green light.

Tolosa’s old gate and newer buildings

I was struck by the town’s striking architecture, tall buildings with colored facades, a metal sculpture that folks both walked through or around, and an ancient stone gate to the city.  Plus a three piece band was playing catchy music on the corner when we exited from the garage.

FARMERS’ MARKET

Market in Tolosa

I always enjoy seeing markets in another country, even though tomatoes and lettuce look pretty much the same wherever you go.  For me, there’s something appealing in how the produce or the cheeses (some not wrapped) or the eggs (baskets) are displayed.

Peppers, eggplant, onions, etc.
Fresh bread, anyone?

This is semi-open air with a clear glass canopy, and lots of folks stocking up on sausages, cheeses, walnuts, apples, or pumpkin for the week ahead.  A busy place.

RETURNING TO THE GARAGE

After our tour of the town, we were ready to head out really to the country, a small town, and eventually a large pig farm where we would have lunch.  But first, the issue was getting the van out of its parking space.  The orange car on one side had parked head out, but well into the green band, the pedestrian walking area.  Our guide, Angel, made five or six attempts to back out, but with that car sticking out and a car parked directly behind us, it was impossible.

He was thinking about  Plans B and C, but he went and found two garage staff. Their first response was they would call the police.  The woman brought me a chair which she put in an empty parking spot—guess I looked like I needed to sit, probably the white hair! 

Waiting for the van in the parking garage!

The man went with Angel to provide guidance while we waited out of the way in the spot.  Shortly thereafter, the car directly behind us left, and this gave Angel enough space with direction from the parking staff to back out.  We breathed a sigh of relief—we were not going to spend the rest of the day marooned in Tolosa.

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Spain: Basque Pig Farm

FROM TOLOSA TO THE COUNTRY

Valley in the mountains

After enjoying the architecture and the farmers’ market in Tolosa, we went up into the mountains, ending up eventually at a family farm of about 100 acres. The husband and wife and their three children are the 13th generation to manage and maintain this farm. They have 400 pigs, more than 10 horses, a few donkeys, and some beef cattle. The pigs are the main enterprise, and most of them end up as hams and salami. The pigs freely eat the acorns and chestnuts on the land and their diet gets supplemented with corn and other items.

PIG HUT

Upon arrival on the property, we made a brief stop to check out a pig house. We walked up a small slope littered with fluffy-looking chestnut remains to a small 17th century wooden building. Inside are six segregated sties where expectant pigs and new pig mothers and their piglets can rest for a while. We went in and peered at two sets of sleeping pigs and piglets. A light shone in one sty, providing some warmth I guess.

Adult pig outside showing face, floppy ears & large size

Looking up, the ceiling was covered with thick spider web after thick whitish spider web.

Pig enclosure showing spider webs on ceiling

The spiders are allowed and encouraged to keep down the other insects. These Basque pigs, the most desirable ones, are mostly gray with some large pink areas on their sides.

Three baby pigs snuggle against mama

The mothers and babies were all much bigger than I expected.

LOVELY LUNCH

From the pig hut, we then drove up to the main house area and met P and M and their eldest daughter. The views are lovely, and they have a thriving vegetable garden.

Farm’s vegetable garden

We learned that P’s father died unexpectedly when he was only 19 and so, he inherited the property at that point. His wife, Maite, is from Tolosa. Previously, she was a hairdresser and then a restaurant owner. After their children, she stayed home and began to offer home cooked lunches using the products of their farm.

Hams hanging in the dining area; note the picture of a Basque pig on the wall behind
Pork products of the farm

The first course was a plate of prosciutto-like ham, slices of salami and chorizo, and tiny slices of sirloin ham, all from their pigs. I should mention that the dining room where we sat had hams aging and hanging from the ceiling, just not right above our table. Second course was mini ham croquettes, followed by fresh cepes or porcini with scrambled eggs, and then, a lovely piece of nicely seasoned beef cooked over a wood fire with roasted red pepper slices on the side.

Finally we sampled a delicate flan for dessert from P’s aunt’s recipe. We enjoyed some local cider (tart not sweet) and water with the meal. Maite does all the cooking and preparation, and it was a tasty and most memorable meal! And at that point, we were probably all ready for naps.

Flan from a family recipe

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Spain: More San Sebastian

WALKING CENTER CITY

Yesterday we were on our own and enjoyed seeing a bit more of San Sebastián than we already had. The hotel manager recommended a photography exhibit so we headed in that direction. We walked through center city across the Urumea River on the Maria Cristina bridge which links to the train and bus stations. Built in 1904-1905, it’s a stone bridge with three arches and most notably four obelisks at the four corners, each topped with sculptures in the Belle Epoque style. They are copies of ones in Paris.

One of 4 obelisks at the ends of Maria Cristina Bridge

Our destination was the Tabakalera, an arts and community center for films and exhibitions, located next to the train station. Like Brightleaf Square in Durham, North Carolina, it’s a re-purposed tobacco warehouse. But more industrial looking than the brick ones in Durham.

The lobby has some funky seating and a reflective art piece hanging from the ceiling.

Main floor space, Tabakalera

PHOTOGRAPHY EXHIBIT

We viewed Family Ties, an exhibit of large-scale color photographs by Tina Barney. To our surprise, Barney is an American artist whose work is primarily in a New York gallery. She grew up on the East Coast in an affluent environment, and her works reflect that in the dress and settings of the people she has photographed. Many reflect wealth and achievement, but to my eye, not necessarily happiness or contentment.

Granddaughter

They range from a perfect hostess with a carefully laid table and more glassware behind her, a man with his two grown sons, a granddaughter with grandparents in the background, and the artist’s self portrait.

Self-Portait in Red Raincoat,1990

The lighting in the exhibition was intense which made getting good photos difficult, hence the occasional blue streak.

IMPRESSIVE CHURCHES

San Sebastian has two large churches, one a basilica and the other a cathedral. The Cathedral of the Good Shepherd, the newer of the two, was constructed in the late 19th century in a Neo-Gothic style. Its style emphasizes its verticality. It has only been designated a cathedral since 1953.

Side view, Cathedral of the Good Shepherd

The Basilica of Santa Maria in the heart of the Old Town was built between 1743 and 1774. Its main entrance is on a straight line from the cathedral and when standing in front of one, you can see the other. The baroque facade is topped by a statue of Saint Sebastian the Martyr. Regular organ and choir concerts take place in this sanctuary.

Looking toward Baroque Basilica of Santa Maria

Spain: San Sebastián City & Pinxtos

CITY HIGHLIGHTS

Beach on eastern side of San Sebastian

Today we spent part of the day with Kai, a young guide who traveled and lived in other countries and worked in the hospitality industry before becoming a guide.  A native of San Sebastián, he loves his home city and presents it well.  With him, we went from the east side of town, close to our hotel, to the opposite side on the west. 

On the east end, we learned about an activist group, ETA or Euskadi Ta Askatasuna (Basque Homeland and Liberty), that agitated for an independent Basque state across the Basque territories in northern Spain and southwestern France.  It came into existence in the 1970’s during the Franco period when the Basque language and culture were being suppressed. The group was violent for a period resulting in many deaths, but in 2011, it ceased most activity and then dissolved in 2018.

“Dove of Peace” sculpture

This iron sculpture of a white pigeon or Dove of Peace with its wings spread was meant to be a symbol of San Sebastian’s commitment to peace and nonviolence during a turbulent time.  It was constructed of metal to withstand the ocean winds.

Furthest “Wind Comb”
Most accessible one
Grasping the rocks

On the west side, a series of three metal sculpture are anchored into the coastal rocks. Intended to catch the action of the waves and entitled “Wind Comb,” they were designed by Eduardo Chillida Jantegui (1924-2002), a renowned San Sebastián sculptor. They were installed in 1977. The day was calm, so no wave or wind action.

Layers of stone pushed upright

These sculptures and the surrounding stone formations are stunning.

We also stopped at a lookout point and an historic amusement park for some marvelous views overlooking the bay.

PINXTOS TOUR

Catalonia (Barcelona and environs) is famous for its tapas; in Basque Country, it is pinxtos.  Go into almost any bar or restaurant in San Sebastian’s old quarter, and you will see an array of cold pinxtos on the counter, handheld treats looking appetizingly good.  Our guide Kai told us that these were fine, but that he thought the hot pinxtos and other ones ordered from the menu were better. 

Pinxtos are usually small bites, often on a slice of bread, or held together with a toothpick. The name, “pinxto” comes from the Spanish verb, “pinchar” which means to skewer or pierce.

At Atari Gastroteka for foie gras and cod

We were on the early side for our tasting tour, starting at 1:00 pm, and so, we got a table in every restaurant but the last one. There, except for a few tables with chairs, it was only standing up at the bar itself or at lower tables, which we did like the women above.

With Kai as our knowledgeable local foodie, we shared pinxtos and tried local wines at four restaurants/bars. We then went on to a bakery to buy pastry to have with coffee at an outdoor cafe.

Pork with pickled vegetables
Foie gras with white chocolate “mayonnaise”
Cod in piquillo pepper sauce

In addition and not pictured, we had a lovely scallop on a shell in a green curry sauce. We also sampled dishes I would never have ordered including rooster crest that was crispy and a base for tidbits of chicken in a creamy sauce. The gazpacho had pickle slices on it and was drizzled with fragrant basil oil.

Rooster comb & silky gazpacho
Two Basque pastries
Cafe site for dessert

It was a delicious and fun experience to sample this wide variety of small bites at Kai’s favorite places. Overall, a most memorable outing! Do any of these treats tempt you?

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)