Spain: Jerez & Sherry

JEREZ

One of many posters about an upcoming festival

Jerez is a city of about 200,000 people not quite an hour away from Seville. It’s in the province of Cadiz and is the capital of the sherry world. For Americans, the city name is pronounced nothing like it’s spelled, and my rendering of it is, “Hreth.” Also the Spaniards aspirate the ‘j” in a way I have never mastered. Many sherry producers have their headquarters in the middle of Jerez including Tio Pepe, one of the best known in the U. S. There is even a statue of Tio Pepe which translates to “Uncle Joe.’

Statue of Tio Pepe

We spent about two hours with Carmen, a local guide and a native of Jerez. She was warm and engaging and, we learned abut the history and architecture of the town along with some anecdotes and legends which might or might not be fact.

Back view of cathedral, considered more elegant than the front which is a mix of styles
Plaza de la Asuncion
Attractive facade, likely apartments today

There were few other tourists around, and we felt like we were seeing the real world, the locals out shopping and going about their business.

Fountain in center city
Beginning of long street of shops

We also visited the big local market everything from clothing and produce in outside stalls. Inside, a whole hall devoted to fish and seafood next to a much smaller one for meat and poultry. I always like seeing the markets in other countries, and this one was a treat. I was surprised to see so many female fishmongers.

Wide variety of fishes
Head of a tuna
Fishmonger creating steaks

SHERRY BODEGA

After a lunch of shared small dishes (potatoes, tuna two ways, Iberian ham, anchovies on ratatouille toast, and a bit of fino sherry), we visited Lustau, a noted and historic sherry producer.

Sherry being aged

Over the years, the Chief Penguin and I have drunk a lot of Lustau amontillado, so visiting their cellar was a pleasure. The cellar buildings are old, 1840’s and 1860’s, and cathedral-like with arches and very high ceilings.

Church-like wine cellar

Our young tour guide was excellent as she recapped the history of the company. Then in various galleries, midst the barrels in various stages of aging—it takes at least 4 years to make many sherries—she introduced us to 4 different wines ranging in taste from astringently dry to sweet: amontillado, fino, and olorosa among them. She ended our tour with a taste of a lovely vermouth, a more recent addition to their line-up. Hands down, this was the most elegant wine cellar we’ve ever visited!

TOUR GUIDES

We have had a series of excellent guides in Spain, and our last two were equally stellar. They were informative and personable, and we enjoyed our time with them and at lunch this day.

Carmen & Manuel

Note: All photos by JWFarrington and friends.

Spain: Discovering Seville

TRADITIONAL & WHIMSICAL

Sevilla or Seville in English is a city of surprises. With about 725,000 people, it’s twice the population of Granada, yet not a huge city like Barcelona or Madrid. Our hotel is in the old town and once was a home that housed several families all living together. It has two courtyards and two levels of rooms around these interior open-air spaces.

Hotel courtyard with rooms above

On our first day, we walked a bit on our own. In the evening, with guide Manuel, we sampled the fare at two bars/tapas places.

Interior, Bodega La Aurora

At Bodega La Aurora, we had some local cheese wedges and a bit of fino sherry; going on, we enjoyed Iberian ham, bread, croquettes, a crispy round chickpea cracker with tiny shrimps in it, and some red wine. We had had a substantial lunch, so this was “dinner” Spanish style.

Setas de Sevilla

We also went to see Setas de Seville (Seville Mushrooms) an all wood installation of mushroom-shaped parasols in a large square. It is imposing and whimsical at the same time. Designed by the German architect Jurgen Mayer, its official title is Metropol Parasol. Construction began in 2005 and was finished in 2011.

Seville Mushrooms (Metropol Parasol)

We’ve seen nothing else like it anywhere else. For the price of a ticket, it’s possible to go up top for a view of the city.

PLAZA DE ESPANA

In 1929, Seville hosted the Iber0-American Exposition. The very expansive Plaza de España or “Square of Spain” was built for this occasion in Renaissance Revival style architecture and designed by Anibal Gonzalez. The semi-circular complex with two towers and four bridges is monumental and breathtakingly beautiful.

Plaza de Espana
Close-up of arches
Exampleof tile panels
Elaborate bridge and details

Spain has 52 provinces or counties and each one of them is represented in tiled alcove with a historic scene, its coat of arms, and a person associated with that province. Within the alcove, there is low bench seating. Each alcove is different and a detailed work of art.

Cordoba alcove showing seating
Cordoba coat of arms
Huelva province header

Huelva province was the home of Christopher Columbus and the scene in the center of that alcove shows him and his ships. Each alcove also has a map on the floor showing where that province is located in Spain.

Painted tiles showing Columbus and his ships
Alcove detail showing intricate tile work

The plaza itself is part of Maria Luisa Park and there are impressive entry gates as well as some exposition buildings. I thought this white domed building was particularly striking.

1929 exposition building

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Spain: Granada & Alhambra

ARAB DISTRICT

We had a fascinating day in Granada experiencing the narrow streets of the oldest neighborhood in Granada, the Albaicin. It existed and was inhabited before the construction of the Alhambra. After we went on to the Alhambra, both the lovely outer gardens and then into several of the palaces.

View of ancient wall around Granada from high point in Albaicin

With our experienced guide Bianca, we took a cab to the highest point in Albaicin. Here we had a view of the remains of the ancient wall surrounding the city and in the distance quite far away the outline of the Alhambra. It sits up high and when one is closer, you can see its fortress-like thick walls and multiple towers.

Carmen or grape lattice
House with stained glass
Narrow Albaicin street

We then meandered through a maze of winding streets bordered by the high white-washed walls of Muslim homes. Our guide knew just how to thread her way on these confusing streets without meeting any big tour groups. She noted that the Arabs kept their homes private, with usually no outside decoration, while high walls kept out intruders or lurkers. To provide shade over the inside courtyard, they put grape vines on a horizontal lattice called a “carmen.” More elaborate patios would have plants and possible a water source in the center and include tiles in some fashion.

After the conquest by the Catholic monarchs, although it was specified as a residence for Muslims, Christians began to create neighborhoods here as well. The Christian style of decoration was different; they added special stones around their doors or facades or added coats of arms to denote their status or degree of wealth.

Status could be read by which way the helmet faced, if the eyes were open or closed, and also how many keys were on the shield. Here only two and overall a person of lower rank. This is on the facade of a building that is now a hotel.

Elaborate stone designs on sidewalk

THE ALHAMBRA

Alhambra gardens and structures

I knew that the Alhambra was a famous Muslim palace, but I didn’t realize that it was a whole little city apart from Granada that included gardens, crops, and a water supply that made it self-sufficient.

It’s so peaceful in these gardens, one can see why family may come for an outing.
Thick walls and a path outside the palaces

Its towers and high walls were for protection, and a series of emirs and rulers lived within these walls and palaces.

Palace arches showing plaster work

The complex was begun in 1238 by the first Nasrid emir and founder of the Emirate of Granada, the last Muslim state of what is now called Andalusia (then Al-Andalus.) Later rulers added significantly to the royal palaces during the 14th century.

Mosaic tile along wall
Mosaic pattern detail
Plaster designs

With the Christian Re-conquest of 1492, this site became the royal court of Ferdinand and Isabella and was where Christopher Columbus received their support of his expedition. In the early 1500’s, King Charles V added a new Renaissance-style palace which was never finished and left to ruin. In 1812, alas, Napoleon destroyed several parts of the complex, so that only three palaces remain.

Palace collonade & reflecting pool
Fountain with 12 animals around it

The Alhambra is such a vast complex of buildings and patterns that it is a challenge to portray it even simply in a few photos. Below are a few details seen in the palaces.

Decoration on column
Intricate ceiling work
Finely done patterns on a wall

Later, the Alhambra became an attraction for the British and the Americans and other visitors including Washington Irving. While here, Irving wrote his short story collection, Tales of the Alhambra, published in 1832.

EVENING FARE

After a full day of exploring with lots and lots of steps and staircases and only seeing a portion of the Alhambra, we were ready for something to eat. We found the last table outside against a wall at Humo cafe.

We tucked into some delicious beef empanadas, fries, and a tasty artichoke, and then, along came a religious procession of clerics and others plus a band playing “Onward Christian Soldiers” as they marched. We wondered if it was a special saint’s day as a big float was part of this parade. Made for a most interesting evening!

Fancy float in the processionw

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Spain: Granada Glimpses

ARRIVING

The scenic drive from Cordoba to Granada took us past groves and groves of olive trees for miles and miles. And up and down and around the mountain’s curving roads. The entire time was not quite two and a half hours. And then, suddenly, we were in a big city again, more Barcelona-like than like Bilbao or Cordoba.

Couryard and upper level, Palacio de Santa Paula

I don’t usually comment on the hotels we stay in; so far they all have been great. But this one is exceptional. A blending of a former convent from the 16th century and a grand house from the 17th century, Palacio de Santa Paula is an elegant piece of architecture. Our room is on what one might call the balcony level overlooking a courtyard, or patio as it would be called here, open to the sky. Comfy chairs around the perimeter invite you to read, relax, or nap, while images and icons are reminders of its past as a Catholic cloister.

I love the peachy, coral color of the walls
Yes, it was a convent

Drinks and lunch or dinner are served on the open patio level outside or in the lovely El Claustro restaurant indoors. Tiles and arches are almost everywhere. On the patio floor are inset stones commemorating various sisters who lived here in the 1600s.

BOTANICAL GARDEN

I like the arches on the gate and those on the peach wall outside

The hotel is centrally located in the old town. We walked around the area just exploring what was what. We happened upon the university with a botanical garden and noted students enjoying a break in one of the many sidewalk cafes.

Café scene with students

The botanical garden is small and obviously designed for study. I took note of some of the plants, including a large bamboo bush, thinking of my sister Ann, who would have fun seeing the variety. Most were not blooming except for a pink trumpet flower and one with small purple flowers. There are a few benches at one end, making it a quiet oasis apart from the city’s bustle.

Secluded gardens
Intensely purple flowers
University botanical garden

DISH OF THE DAY

We opted for lunch at our hotel and tried local dishes new to us including a Spanish omelet or tortilla. It is actually more like a potato omelet, but shaped like a discus. Tasty! Lunch was so good that we decided to “push the easy button” as one of my friends would say, and have dinner here as well. We enjoyed some of the best food we have had this trip. It’s hard to decide what we liked the best from tomato and basil to marinated trout to cod confit to dessert.

In my opinion, the tomato with basil hummus was simply sublime! Chunks of tomato lightly dressed with micro greens and sitting atop an intense thick basil cream. I happen to love basil, and it was perfect late summer. But the prettiest dish was probably my pink trout in a yellow sauce with purple micro greens adorning it. So, I guess, two dishes of the day!

Tomato and basil cream
Marinated trout in a sauce with citrus and other flavors

Next up, a visit to the Alhambra.

Note: Photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)