Down Under: To Lake Tekapo

CANTERBURY PLAINS ONWARD

Leaving behind the gorgeous Banks Peninsula on Thursday, we backtracked toward Christchurch, but headed mostly south through the Canterbury Plains and then the Mackenzie Basin to our destination of Lake Tekapo.

The Canterbury Plains are the flattest section of New Zealand and very green and fertile. Again, more of nature’s beauty. As we made our way across rivers and through a few small towns, we began to see in the distance, and then closer up, the snow-capped peaks of the Southern Alps. In the sunlight, they seemed to shimmer with silver.  

This richly fertile area produces fruit and is home to many sheep and cattle. We learned from Mr. Kruse on our audio guide that there are different kinds of sheep and depending on how steep the land is or how flat determines what kind of sheep are raised. Only about 15% of the wool produced today is merino wool. Other sheep produce less special wool or are raised for lamb for the table.

We had planned to have lunch in Asburton or Fairlie, both towns that primarily provide services for the area’s sheep and other farmers, but happened upon the Farm Barn Café at the top of a hill with yet one more gorgeous view. We took photos all around first, then went inside to eat. Offerings were panini and pies and sandwiches. We opted for a bacon and cheese pie and the special salmon quiche, both of which came with a green salad and a grated carrot and almond salad. The café included a small gift shop with children’s books, tea towels, and various stuffed sheep and kiwi birds.

After the Canterbury Plains, the topography changes and the mountains are brown and dry looking as you enter the Mackenzie District. The ground is stony with boulders and tussocks here and there, a very harsh soil not easily tilled. The British settlers who came here gave up in desperation and left this dry inhospitable climate, but some Scots came later and had better luck working this land. Temperatures vary from highs in the upper 80’s or more in summer to bitterly cold in the winter. The color brown predominates here, but you are closing the distance on the Alps and the distant mountains’ snow is even more apparent.

We traveled through several valleys and passes and eventually reached Lake Tekapo, a tourist town catering to adventure seekers (you can arrange a walk on the Tasman Glacier, a helicopter flight, a tube ride, or go skiing) and backpackers as well as bus tours. The lake is backed by the Southern Alps and quite lovely. We thought it was exceptionally so at sunset when we tramped over the gravel and rocks to take some evening photos.  

 

 

 

 

Accommodations in Lake Tekapo run mostly to motels and a small hotel and one resort, all of which offer some sort of lake view. Our room was well equipped (except for slower wifi) with a small outside porch looking toward the lake.

 

Dinner in the resort restaurant was better than we anticpated. After starting with some dumplings and stuffed wontons on the Asian platter, we both enjoyed the panfried high country salmon (a local specialty) served with bok choy and carrots and a crab tortellino. The couple at the table next to ours struck up a conversation. They were from Timaru and had several recommendations for us for when we reached Oamaru, our next stop.

Note:  All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).  Header photo is reflection of the Southern Alps in Lake Tekapo.

Down Under: South Island Banks Peninsula

TRAVELING THE SOUTH ISLAND

For the next week and a half, we have a rental car and will be doing more driving and sightseeing on the road. We’re also staying at a bunch of different places as we work our way farther south and then west to end up near Doubtful Sound.

Today we left the serenity of Marlborough and flew north from Blenheim to Wellington (15 minutes in the air) and then connected to an hour flight from Wellington to Christchurch. There used to be direct service from Blenheim down to Christchurch, but no more. Fortunately, the first flight was on time as there was only thirty minutes to connect. We got off one plane, walked to the new gate, and boarded the second flight. We didn’t stay in Christchurch, but got another car and drove the approximately 45 miles over to Akaroa on the Banks Peninsula.

This peninsula is shaped like a horseshoe curling around the harbor and was named for Joseph Banks, the naturalist who voyaged with Capt. Cook. It’s stunningly beautiful; the mountains are contrasting shades of green, and we wound around up and down and around enjoying the sun and the view.  

About halfway we stopped outside Lytleton for lunch at the Blue Duck Café, a simple straightforward place. We ordered ham and cheese sandwiches and an order of chips (read fries) that came with ketchup and aioli. The owner was chatty (who in this country isn’t, we now think) and told us he spent eleven years in London as a head chef, but got tired of the hours and returned to New Zealand to have his own restaurant. We talked a bit of politics with him (we want to export our president or gain asylum for ourselves; he bemoaned the fact that New Zealand still doesn’t have a formal government more than three weeks after the election), and then were on our way.

We missed a key turn toward Akaroa, our destination, but it turned out that Pigeon Forge Way gave us some wonderful views of Akaroa harbor we might not have gotten. That meant several stops for photos.

Akaroa was founded by a Frenchman and, consequently, reflects both French and British influences. We’re staying less than a mile outside town in what I would call a “cabin in the woods”, but what here is a cottage. There is no restaurant for food service and hence, after checking in, we went into town to wander around and buy provisions for breakfast. There was a lovely French bakery (croissants and sausage rolls), several French cafes, and a butchery whose cases were laden with tempting looking cuts of lamb, homemade sausages along with the usual chicken and beef. Backpackers must be regulars here in the summer as there was also an adventure center and some lodges and accommodations designed with them in mind.

Temperatures today were the coldest we’d experienced, and it’s windy. I’m very grateful for my on-sale L. L. Bean cashmere pullover sweater and the short down jacket I purchased at Costco some months ago. I wore them both!

We dined at the Little Bistro on the main street that seemed to be popular with the townsfolk. I tried their local littleneck clams with saffron cream (quite tasty) and the salad with pickled rhubarb and blue cheese (nice combo) while the C.P. had roast chicken and rosti potatoes. It was all very satisfying.

Down Under: Marlborough Pt.2

MARLBOROUGH PART 2

Yesterday we enjoyed a lovely day in the Marlborough region. It was sunny and even got warm—into the 60’s! Breakfast was a lovely spread of meats and cheeses, fresh fruit, pastry and bread and jam. Genial general manager Peter plopped down to chat and to help us plan our day, area map in hand.

He recommended the Omaka Aviation Heritage Center which initially was a building and commentary about the early planes used in WWI with lots of restored examples. That was so popular they added a second building with a smaller collection of WWII fighter planes from the Allies and the Germans. I knew the Chief Penguin would find this museum of interest and I was willing to go along. Given that these were the real planes and all restored and, supposedly, able to be flown today, it was more than I had expected. I certainly did not read all the commentary about their dimensions and how many battles they saw, but was overall impressed.  

Kiwi filmmaker Peter Jackson was significant in the museum’s creation, and there were several life-size scenes of figures in battle gear, the figures reminiscent of those at the Gallipoli exhibit at Te Papa, only not oversized. I was also taken with the various war posters from England and the US and even France as well as a three-panel display of 5,000 red poppies. Each one was knitted or crocheted or sewn.  

Lunch yesterday was at the Rock Ferry winery and was another lovely experience. The temperature was perfect, the sun was out, and we sat on their porch overlooking a small garden area with picnic tables on the lawn surrounded by flowering trees and blooms. It was almost like being in your own personal garden!   

Following Peter’s recommendations (they’ve been very reliable!), we ordered the fish of the day over coconut risotto with lime and coriander and a side salad and the open-faced steak sandwich with sautéed onions, fries, and a salad, and for dessert the Snicker tart (very rich and sweet).  Here in New Zealand, tasting rooms are called cellar doors and virtually every winery has a full restaurant.

Our last stop was the Makana Chocolate Factory for a look through their production window (they appeared to be making one of the nut brittles) and then a slow swing around the shelves at the many temptations. We left with some macadamia chocolate brittle and some dark chocolate peppermint panache. We’ll see if it all makes it home unopened!

We again sat outside by the stone fireplace before dinner, this time chatting with Lisa, Peter’s second-in-command, and learned about how, although born in New Zealand, she acquired a posh British accent. Her folks came to the UK from Britain and she was born here, but then they returned home and she did all her schooling over there. She has traveled extensively and we shared the joys of those international experiences. We were again the lone diners, but appreciated the chance to chat with British waiter Ben and to learn more about his plans for next year—more travel!

Note:  All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).

Down Under: Marlborough

MARLBOROUGH WINE REGION

On Monday, we reprised the water taxi from Charlotte Sound back to Picton and then got a rental car to drive the short distance to our next port of call. In yet another example of the kindliness of individuals here, the women at the Cougar Line office offered to take our luggage and keep it while we walked to the ferry terminal, home of the rental car agencies. It wasn’t a very long walk, but a lot easier without dragging suitcases.

We are now staying outside Blenheim, in this celebrated sauvignon blanc wine region, at a lovely country home called Marlborough Lodge. Open not quite a year, Marlborough Lodge was a Catholic convent in another era, but was moved to this location and the interior gutted and re-modeled with modern plumbing and appropriate Victorian style furnishings. The building dates from the early 1900’s and is large, but not overly grand. Several parts of it have been enlarged including the kitchen area. It’s simply lovely and sits on several acres of land with extensive gardens and its own vineyards. Over the weekend, the lodge hosted a wedding party, but we were the only guests our first night and had the full attention of Peter White, the general manager.   

Continuing the informality of this country, Peter greeted me with just his first name and proceeded to sit down with us,  give us an overview of the lodge and the region with suggestions for where to have lunch, and then a building tour ending at our room. Before dinner, he invited us, his usual practice, to join him for a drink and some canapés. Despite the definite chill in the air, we opted to sit outside by the stone fireplace—albeit bundled up in several layers and making use of the lodge’s wool blankets—for a sauvignon blanc that had been oaked a bit making it a bit rounder and less grassy, along with some chorizo beignets. 

The two dining rooms inside are light and attractive and in Harvest, the more formal one, one wall is dominated by a vivid scene of bushes with brightly colored blooms. The menu offered lots of choices and we could order whatever we wanted to try (part of the room rate). We tried a number of dishes, but discovered the portions were somewhat larger than we expected. Especially tasty were the local king salmon and the pumpkin risotto.

For lunch earlier in the afternoon, on Peter’s advice, we ventured to Brancott Estate, about 20 minutes away and sitting high on a ridge. You park on one level, and a winery staff person comes along in a van to take you up to the top where the tasting room and restaurant are located. It was a perfect lunch! 

Both for the food and the marvelous view of the vineyard spread out below, its orderly rows making a wonderful tapestry of green and brown. My ora king salmon on skinny noodles in dashi broth was sublime and the Chief Penguin’s monkfish on a potato concoction with asparagus equally delicious. Paired with the recommended wines, it couldn’t have been any better!

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).