Down Under: To Lake Tekapo

CANTERBURY PLAINS ONWARD

Leaving behind the gorgeous Banks Peninsula on Thursday, we backtracked toward Christchurch, but headed mostly south through the Canterbury Plains and then the Mackenzie Basin to our destination of Lake Tekapo.

The Canterbury Plains are the flattest section of New Zealand and very green and fertile. Again, more of nature’s beauty. As we made our way across rivers and through a few small towns, we began to see in the distance, and then closer up, the snow-capped peaks of the Southern Alps. In the sunlight, they seemed to shimmer with silver.  

This richly fertile area produces fruit and is home to many sheep and cattle. We learned from Mr. Kruse on our audio guide that there are different kinds of sheep and depending on how steep the land is or how flat determines what kind of sheep are raised. Only about 15% of the wool produced today is merino wool. Other sheep produce less special wool or are raised for lamb for the table.

We had planned to have lunch in Asburton or Fairlie, both towns that primarily provide services for the area’s sheep and other farmers, but happened upon the Farm Barn Café at the top of a hill with yet one more gorgeous view. We took photos all around first, then went inside to eat. Offerings were panini and pies and sandwiches. We opted for a bacon and cheese pie and the special salmon quiche, both of which came with a green salad and a grated carrot and almond salad. The café included a small gift shop with children’s books, tea towels, and various stuffed sheep and kiwi birds.

After the Canterbury Plains, the topography changes and the mountains are brown and dry looking as you enter the Mackenzie District. The ground is stony with boulders and tussocks here and there, a very harsh soil not easily tilled. The British settlers who came here gave up in desperation and left this dry inhospitable climate, but some Scots came later and had better luck working this land. Temperatures vary from highs in the upper 80’s or more in summer to bitterly cold in the winter. The color brown predominates here, but you are closing the distance on the Alps and the distant mountains’ snow is even more apparent.

We traveled through several valleys and passes and eventually reached Lake Tekapo, a tourist town catering to adventure seekers (you can arrange a walk on the Tasman Glacier, a helicopter flight, a tube ride, or go skiing) and backpackers as well as bus tours. The lake is backed by the Southern Alps and quite lovely. We thought it was exceptionally so at sunset when we tramped over the gravel and rocks to take some evening photos.  

 

 

 

 

Accommodations in Lake Tekapo run mostly to motels and a small hotel and one resort, all of which offer some sort of lake view. Our room was well equipped (except for slower wifi) with a small outside porch looking toward the lake.

 

Dinner in the resort restaurant was better than we anticpated. After starting with some dumplings and stuffed wontons on the Asian platter, we both enjoyed the panfried high country salmon (a local specialty) served with bok choy and carrots and a crab tortellino. The couple at the table next to ours struck up a conversation. They were from Timaru and had several recommendations for us for when we reached Oamaru, our next stop.

Note:  All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).  Header photo is reflection of the Southern Alps in Lake Tekapo.

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