Category: New Zealand

Down Under: Kaka Point to Te Anau

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SOUTH ISLAND–KAKA POINT & SOUTH

On Sunday, we reluctantly left the comfort and warm hospitality at Pen-y-bryn Lodge and headed south toward Kaka Point on the coast doing some of our drive on the Southern Scenic Route which mostly skirts the coastline and is winding and often up and down as well. Our first stop was to see the famous Moeraki Boulders on a beach just outside Oamaru. These are large deposits of silt and calcite that formed through the combined actions of waves and erosion and are unusual for their very round shapes. They vary in size and some are smaller and not as round; others are large enough to stand or sit on. We were skeptical before we saw them, but quickly decided they were worthy of a number of photos.  

 

 

The farther south we’ve gone the less populated this area is except for the two cities of Queenstown and Dunedin. It’s heavily sheep farming and both Sunday and Monday we have seen field after field of sheep. It’s spring and so every mama sheep has one or two lambs gamboling after her. We drove through Dunedin, a university town with strong Scottish routes, dubbed the “Edinburgh of the south.” Had the weather been better, we would have stopped and wandered around as there is some lovely Victorian architecture that has been well preserved. We drove on.

The small towns and villages are a trip back in time and in many you will not find any gas stations and, in some, not even a café. But, every single one that is more than a crossroads has public toilets that are clearly identified on a directional sign. Much better on this issue than the U.S.! There are virtually no fast food restaurants and the eateries that do exist often feel dated in décor. And sometimes finding some place to have a bite to eat is a challenge that requires continuing on the road through several more towns.

On this Sunday, we had lunch at Kellys Kitchen in Milton, recommended by a woman in the previous town. We drove the one main street and then down several residential streets and couldn’t find it. We had been told it was near the country club on the right. After driving out of town and then back in, we saw the country club, slowed down, and then spied a tiny sign with faint lettering that said Kellys. The place was full of families and the menu options were extensive, more than we realized since there was a whole case of pies and wraps that we overlooked. In any case, my BLT on ciabatta with arugula was so good and something different from what I’d been eating!  

We arrived in Kaka Point, a tiny beachside burg in an area of the South Island called the Catlins, which sits right on the Pacific Ocean. We were warmly welcomed by Carolyn and Ken, our hosts at Breadalbane House, their B&B. We stayed upstairs in a comfortable small apartment with windows overlooking the water.

View near Nugget Point

Before dinner, we took a short drive partway up the road to Nugget Point, a dramatic headland and site of an old lighthouse. Unfortunately, the sky was quite gray and it was cold. Kaka Point has 200 residents, but draws tourists and beachgoers in the summer months. There’s one café in town and that’s where we had dinner. Since it’s the only game in town, we had to have a reservation and our table was ready with our name on it. I was yearning for some pasta and decided on the fettuccine with chicken, bacon and mushrooms and a side salad while Greg, probably regretfully, tried the schnitzeled beef. He would have been happier with blue cod.

On Monday, we headed further south and then west to our destination of Te Anau. At this point, New Zealand felt really empty. Miles of road with almost no other cars and field after field of sheep on the undulating hills, then flat land and more snow-capped mountains. And a wonderful reserve of red tussock (grass) covering the mountainsides giving it a brownish red color and bumpy texture.

These billowing rounded grasses really appeal to me. Like long hair blown wild by a hairdryer, they look like they’d be soft to the touch. Apparently, some of these tussocks are more than 200 years old. 

 

 

Te Anau is one of the best-known lakes in the Southland region. And the town of Te Anau is the gateway to Fiordland National Park, larger than Yellowstone and Yosemite combined, and the jumping off point for the scenic drive north to Milford Sound. We will be here for one night before heading to the town of Manapouri and the start of an overnight cruise on Doubtful Sound.

Note:   All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).

Down Under: Enjoying Oamaru

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OUT AND ABOUT IN OAMARU

We spent Saturday in a relaxed fashion catching up on blog and photo editing before heading into town. Our first stop in was the lovely and quite old (1876) Oamaru Public Gardens. Lots of mature trees, a stream, and little paths with stone steps and along stone walls leading to quiet nooks and crannies. Rhododendrons were in full bloom and several cherry trees were raining petals over the red arched bridge. Apparently, Oamaru at one point had the largest Chinese population in New Zealand, not so much any more.

Part of the garden called Wonderland is dedicated to children and there’s a playful sculpture of a boy and girl clambering on a rock. We easily spend an hour wandering, looking and savoring its peaceful greenness.  

Later we returned to the Victorian Precinct which had just gotten a cursory look the day before. The architecture here and along the main street is mostly all built of the native limestone called whitestone. Also now the name of the local cheese company. This is late 19th and early 20th century architecture at its most classical with straight lines, columns and simple decorative elements.

The shops in the historic district run the gamut from the quirky to the less quirky. There are a couple of mostly used bookstores, a number of cafes (pastries, cookies and pies are big here), coffee shops (you are never far from the next cup of java), and a host of jewelry, soap, art and craft and candy shops. Most have some connection to the Victorian theme.  

We had lunch in the oldest restaurant in the town and felt a part of the local culture as no one else looked to be a tourist.  The Star & Garter has been the venue for many a wedding reception and the photos on the wall of brides and grooms go back more than 60 years. Lunch fare was a chicken enchilada (creamy with mushrooms, Oamaru style) and for me, panfried salmon with a green salad. Shortly after we ordered, I received the weekly Facetime call from our granddaughters. Quite amazing to be on the other side of the globe and talk as if they were only a few doors away!

We also popped into the Forrester Gallery briefly (see fossil of the animal moa above, a bird that existed in New Zealand until about 1500) and checked out the front of the public library (only open until 12:30 on Saturday). In fact, many stores close at 1:00 or 2:00 pm on Saturday, making me wonder what they do the rest of the weekend.

At dinner, we had the company of other guests, a young couple from Wellington on a weekend break (Monday is Labour Day). Sandra is from Liechtenstein and John from Fiji and we had fun learning more about their respective countries (actually L. is a principality with only 38,000 people and you can drive from one side to the other in half an hour!) and what it might be like to island hop in Fiji.  

The meal was another scrumptious affair : salmon salad with smoked eggplant puree and cherry tomatoes and other mini veggies; fried duck egg on top of little potatoes with black truffle vinaigrette; venison striploin with wheatberry pilaf, and asparagus on butternut puree, and lastly, a frozen chestnut parfait and white chocolate mousee with cocoa nibs and dark chocolate soil. I was leery about the venison, but it was farm-raised and tender and delicious! Most of the veggies were grown here at Pen-y-bryn Lodge. Chef James both cooks and plays host before dinner and always looks relaxed and never harried.

Note:  All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).

 

Down Under: Mt. Cook & Oamaru

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ON TO OAMARU VIA THE LAKES

We left Lake Tekapo on Friday morning around 8:30 and, on the recommendation of our dinner neighbors last evening, opted to take the slightly longer inland route around several other lakes, rather than the coastal route, to Oamaru, our next place of lodging. From Tekapo to Twizel was fine, but not exceptional, but as we got nearer to Lake Pukaki, the views were gorgeous. Lake Pukaki is the largest of the three lakes that are at the northern end of the Mackenzie Basin; the other two are Tekapo and Ohau.  

They were all formed by the action of receding glaciers. Reminded me a bit of the Finger Lakes in upstate New York, which without the drama of a mountain backdrop, are nonetheless very deep and lovely lakes also formed by glaciers.

  

We made frequent stops to take photos and at one point, an older gentleman came over and pointed out that the peak we were looking at was Mt. Cook, the highest one in New Zealand at over 3750 meters or more than 12,000 feet. He explained that it was rare to see it clearly as it’s usually obscured by clouds, and that we were very lucky. He also told us he had spent six weeks in the U.S. bicycling and seeing lots of the country from Chicago and Wyoming to New Orleans, New York and Florida, including Key West. He said New Zealand had some similar topography to our country, but in a smaller package.

He walked back to his car, we took another photo, and then he came toward me to offer his business card, and said if we had any problems, a car breakdown or got stuck, to give him a call. Alan is a real estate agent who lives in Dunedin and is yet another example of the kindness and hospitality of the Kiwis.

We stopped for coffee and tea and a scone and a muffin in Omarama, a small town providing services for area farmers and also famous for wind gliding. Then it was onward for the last leg to Oamaru, a city known for its Victorian historic district and for its two penguin colonies, blue penguins and yellow-eyed penguins.  A visit to one of these might be a must for the Chief Penguin!

In 1889, businessman John Bulleid had the Pen-y-bryn Lodge built as a home for his wife and family. Fearing earthquakes, he insisted that it be built of strong woods, and he imported large amounts of English oak for use in the interior as well as an imposing oak bookcase and an oak cabinet. After the Bulleids died, the mayor of Oamaru bought it, and he and his family lived in it for more than 70 years making many changes. The third owners, local dairy farmers, saw its possibility as an elegant lodge and worked to restore some of the Victorian splendor undone by the previous owners. This is where we stayed.

The current owners, Americans both named James, are delightful hosts. Tired of the corporate world and living in China, they decided they wanted to run a B and B and sought to acquire a suitable property. They weren’t fixated on a particular country and had never been to New Zealand when they first saw this house. They purchased it in 2010 and are enjoying this different lifestyle. One James does all the gardening (the grounds are lovely and also produce veggies for the table and honey),  and the other James is an accomplished chef. Dinner as well as breakfast are included in the room rate, and the delicious dinner was probably the best one so far with salmon poke, watercress soup, lamb, and rhubarb souffle!  As at Marlborough, it being a bit pre-season, we were the only guests.

Note:  All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).

Down Under: To Lake Tekapo

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CANTERBURY PLAINS ONWARD

Leaving behind the gorgeous Banks Peninsula on Thursday, we backtracked toward Christchurch, but headed mostly south through the Canterbury Plains and then the Mackenzie Basin to our destination of Lake Tekapo.

The Canterbury Plains are the flattest section of New Zealand and very green and fertile. Again, more of nature’s beauty. As we made our way across rivers and through a few small towns, we began to see in the distance, and then closer up, the snow-capped peaks of the Southern Alps. In the sunlight, they seemed to shimmer with silver.  

This richly fertile area produces fruit and is home to many sheep and cattle. We learned from Mr. Kruse on our audio guide that there are different kinds of sheep and depending on how steep the land is or how flat determines what kind of sheep are raised. Only about 15% of the wool produced today is merino wool. Other sheep produce less special wool or are raised for lamb for the table.

We had planned to have lunch in Asburton or Fairlie, both towns that primarily provide services for the area’s sheep and other farmers, but happened upon the Farm Barn Café at the top of a hill with yet one more gorgeous view. We took photos all around first, then went inside to eat. Offerings were panini and pies and sandwiches. We opted for a bacon and cheese pie and the special salmon quiche, both of which came with a green salad and a grated carrot and almond salad. The café included a small gift shop with children’s books, tea towels, and various stuffed sheep and kiwi birds.

After the Canterbury Plains, the topography changes and the mountains are brown and dry looking as you enter the Mackenzie District. The ground is stony with boulders and tussocks here and there, a very harsh soil not easily tilled. The British settlers who came here gave up in desperation and left this dry inhospitable climate, but some Scots came later and had better luck working this land. Temperatures vary from highs in the upper 80’s or more in summer to bitterly cold in the winter. The color brown predominates here, but you are closing the distance on the Alps and the distant mountains’ snow is even more apparent.

We traveled through several valleys and passes and eventually reached Lake Tekapo, a tourist town catering to adventure seekers (you can arrange a walk on the Tasman Glacier, a helicopter flight, a tube ride, or go skiing) and backpackers as well as bus tours. The lake is backed by the Southern Alps and quite lovely. We thought it was exceptionally so at sunset when we tramped over the gravel and rocks to take some evening photos.  

 

 

 

 

Accommodations in Lake Tekapo run mostly to motels and a small hotel and one resort, all of which offer some sort of lake view. Our room was well equipped (except for slower wifi) with a small outside porch looking toward the lake.

 

Dinner in the resort restaurant was better than we anticpated. After starting with some dumplings and stuffed wontons on the Asian platter, we both enjoyed the panfried high country salmon (a local specialty) served with bok choy and carrots and a crab tortellino. The couple at the table next to ours struck up a conversation. They were from Timaru and had several recommendations for us for when we reached Oamaru, our next stop.

Note:  All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).  Header photo is reflection of the Southern Alps in Lake Tekapo.