Fall Interlude: Music & More in Philadelphia

Thursday evening was the opening concert of the orchestra’s 2026-27 season, and it was fabulous!  It’s the 25th anniversary of the Kimmel Center and the recently named Marian Anderson Hall made for a magnificent concert setting.  It was Philadelphia at its finest. 

Philadelphia Orchestra opening night

A new institution on the Center City art scene, Calder Gardens is dedicated to Alexander Calder who lived from 1898 to 1976.  A Philadelphian by birth, Calder came from a family of sculptors as both his father and grandfather were artists.  His father designed the Swann Memorial Fountain here and the Washington Square Arch in Manhattan, while his grandfather produced architectural sculptures including the statue of William Penn on top of Philadelphia City Hall. This Calder created both mobiles and monumental abstract sculptures.

Exterior of Calder Gardens complex

Calder Gardens is both gardens or plantings and a low-slung long building that is partly below ground.  A slightly meandering path through beds of grasses and rushes and the occasional stand of flowers leads to an unmarked entrance.  The indoor sculptures are downstairs, and there are several outside accessed only from that level.  There are no labels or interpretative panels for any work, and the intention is that one views the work in a contemplative manner. 

One of the few large works inside

On our arrival day, we took advantage of the pleasant weather and enjoyed lunch outside at Rouge overlooking Rittenhouse Square.  Keeping it on the light side, the Chief Penguin ordered fried calamari, and I had half of a tasty chicken sandwich.  We shared my fries.  That night we sampled the creative cuisine at a. kitchen.  He was delighted with his tuna crudo dish and the generous gem salad.  I tried the homemade spaghetti with a light sausage and fennel sauce.   

Before going to Calder Gardens, we walked to Callowhill Street where we were told there was a Pain Quotidienne.  No such eatery in sight, so we turned around and went to the Logan.  The Logan is the site of the former Four Seasons Hotel and the Fountain Room, one of the city’s top two restaurants in its day.  Helmed then by Jean-Marie Lacroix, it and Le Bec Fin competed for the most discriminating diners.  Sadly, neither restaurant exists today.

In 1990, we and good friends Ellen and Bob dined in the Fountain Room at one of the city’s annual The Cook and the Book events. Julia Child was the featured guest. Unlike other chefs we’d met, tall Julia stood regally at the entrance to the dining room, greeting everyone and shaking hands. Later, she made the traditional round to the tables signing copies of her cookbook. It was such a treat to meet her and, without a doubt, the most memorable Cook and the Book event we attended.

The food at these two restaurants was refined, sophisticated, and creative.  We had the pleasure of meals at each and have fond memories of the dessert trolley and the cheese cart at Le Bec Fin.  Georges Perrier was its master chef, and we savored the products of his talent. 

Today, the Fountain Room is now Urban Farmer, a casual restaurant reflecting today’s farm to table movement.  While attractive but not elegant, it fit the bill nicely for lunch.  Their $17 Quick Cut menu offered a choice of two dishes plus cornbread.  The CP had the potato leek soup followed by a Caesar salad; I opted for a Caesar salad with chicken.  Pleasant surroundings and all very good.

Cornbread silo

The next night we tried Miss Saigon, a Vietnamese restaurant not too far from the Kimmel Center.  The reviews were laudatory, and the lower level was full of diners when we left; our spring rolls seemed off but the lemongrass chicken curry was reasonably good. A disappointing meal in a lovely setting.

After visiting a good friend in Jenkintown, we returned to Gran Caffe L’Aquila, a favorite restauant from our visit two years ago.  With the house salad, beautiful, sliced prosciutto, fried artichokes, and a delectable ravioli entrée, we were very content!   We are here a few more days and look forward to more great food.

Note: Photos by the Farringtons.

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