New York: Wonderful Whitney

On our last full day in New York, we made our first visit to the new Whitney Museum of American Art (to give its full name). Now located in the Meatpacking District a short walk from our apartment, it is in a stunning new building by Renzo Piano. For anyone who is familiar with Renzo’s other work, there are some recurring elements: lots of glass, metal staircases both internal and external, a public space on the roof, and a creative use of natural light. [I take the liberty of using his first name since I’ve had the pleasure of getting to know Renzo a bit in San Francisco and have visited him in both Paris and Genoa.] He was the architect for the California Academy of Sciences (2008) in Golden Gate Park and The Shard (2013) in London.

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The lines for entry were long, but you can bypass them if you buy your tickets online or, like we did, buy a membership. With all the time we plan to spend in New York, it seemed a wise investment.

 

 

 

 

An exhibit of works by Frank Stella had just opened and we did that first. Colorful paintings and almost ornate sculptures, sometimes of found objects, dominated the galleries. These were all large works. Outside were several complex star sculptures, one metal and one made of wood.

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The museum overlooks the High Line so while outside you can gaze down and watch the never-ending stream of casual walkers, commuters, and tourists.

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The other exhibit we spent time in was a retrospective of the works of Archibald Motley (1891-1981), an African American artist who painted the jazz scene as well as portraits of black society, both high and low, in 1920’s and 30’s Chicago. I had never heard of Motley nor seen any of his works and was drawn in by the intensity of his images and his use of strong vibrant, almost neon, colors. Unfortunately for me, the works I wanted to photograph were the ones where no photos were permitted.  But here is an example I found on the web.

NightLife. 1943 (https://maryckhayes.wordpress.com)
NightLife. 1943 (https://maryckhayes.wordpress.com)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Book of the Week

The Wall St. Journal reviewed it several weeks ago and the NY Times this past Sunday. The book is Becoming Nicole: The Transformation of an American Family by Amy Ellis Nutt. This is the absorbing, painful account of one young boy’s journey to becoming a female. Wyatt was one of two identical twins adopted by Kelly and Wayne Maines. From the age of two, Wyatt, unlike his brother Jonas, preferred dolls and girlish things. In a few years, he began to articulate his dislike of his “male parts” and his preference for female clothes and referred to himself as a “girl boy.” Eventually his parents allowed him to legally change his name.

This book is as much her parents’ story as it is Nicole’s. Her mother was tirelessly supportive, preparing teachers for her then son’s differences, getting him into counseling, seeking appropriate medical help, and then being there for Nicole to ensure her safety and emotional well-being as she outwardly and publicly became more of a girl. For her father, who envisioned teaching both his sons to hunt and shoot (pastimes he enjoyed growing up), the journey was a struggle and he left a lot of it to his wife. Over the course of Nicole’s growing up (she is now college age), society evolved and there is the beginning of greater acceptance of transgender individuals. Some of this change is due to a lawsuit filed by the Maines. All parenting brings a set of challenges, but these parents had an especially complex situation to navigate. Nutt’s inclusion of the latest studies on gender identity is helpful contextual information.

 

[Photos by the author unless otherwise indicated; some rights reserved]

Culture Notes: Monet, Murder & Identity

Sometimes one comes upon the most enjoyable books or movies by happenstance and other times it’s on the recommendation of a friend.

While I was in Philadelphia at the Barnes Foundation, I picked up a novel about Claude Monet called, Claude & Camille by Stephanie Cowell. Published in 2010, it’s a fascinating portrait of Monet’s early life with his wife Camille and the close friendships between him and Renoir, Pissarro, and particularly Frederic Bazille. These Impressionists (only dubbed so later on) worked against tradition and, hence, their works were unpopular and frequently did not sell.

Monet and Camille lived hand-to-mouth while he refused to take on any kind of normal job and she periodically worked to provide some limited funds. They regularly depended upon the kindness of friends, most often Bazille whose family had money. Add in Camille’s unstable temperament and Claude’s frequent absences and you have lives fraught with tension and distance. Success was slow in coming.

Cowell’s novel is historically based, but with a novelist’s license she has elaborated on the relationship between Camille and the other artists. Cowell also captures, some might say lovingly, the process of putting paint to canvas and creating color and light. One knows precisely which paintings they are without her ever giving the reader their titles.

A friend gave me a copy of a mystery she and a colleague co-authored. Set in Bethlehem, founded in 1741 and now a charming city in Pennsylvania’s Lehigh Valley, The Body in the Vat: Tales from the Tannery by Charlene Donchez Mowers and Carol A. Reifinger is light fare, short and fun. It will appeal to anyone who knows the city (lots of familiar venues from the Colonial Industrial Quarter to the Moravian Book Shop) and to others curious to learn more about Bethlehem’s Moravian heritage.  Proceeds are being shared with Historic Bethlehem Museums & Sites and the 275th Anniversary Committee of Moravians in Bethlehem.

Another friend recommended that we see Phoenix and we were not disappointed. This is a seriously good, serious German film about identity and betrayal and the heart. Getting out of the concentration camp after the war, damaged physically and emotionally, Nelly needs reconstructive surgery on her face. Although pressured to have a new look, she asks to look like she did before. After surgery, she sets out to find her husband who does not recognize her. Practicing with him to become herself, she embarks on a journey that is both disturbing and poignant. Who are we really? What is it that marks our unique identity? And why do we continue to trust in the face of betrayal? Dark and haunting, this is a film that lingers long after the last credit has rolled.

Header photo:  Monet’s Springtime (1872) from Google art project.jpg

On the Road: Overdosing on Art

After an absence of several years, we returned to Philadelphia for a friend’s birthday party. We were blessed with mostly overcast skies and comfortable temperatures—perfect for all the walking we planned to do. We did walk a lot one day, but mostly we gorged on art. In two days, we visited three art museums and re-appreciated how much this historic city has to offer.

The Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts was the first stop. This museum and school is the oldest of its kind in the country and was established in 1805. Philadelphia was a cultural center even then, known for a time as the “Athens of America” and from 1790 to 1800 served as the nation’s capital. As you might expect, therefore, there are paintings and sculptures of George Washington, Benjamin Franklin, and John Paul Jones by the likes of Charles Wilson Peale and Gilbert Stuart, along with marble statues of figures from the classics such as one of Penelope by Rinaldo Rinaldi done in 1851.

Benjamin Franklin
Benjamin Franklin
Penelope
Penelope

What was equally, if not more appealing, was the Academy’s theming of several of the galleries. One, entitled “Women’s Work,” contained an array of paintings from different periods each depicting a woman doing something domestic—laundry, sweeping, etc. The artists were mostly male, but there was one painting by Mary Cassatt.

We also had fun in the large gallery hung “salon style,” a practice begun in France long ago. Here the walls were covered with paintings from down low to high up and none of them had any labels! A cheat sheet on the bench enabled us to zero in on works we particularly liked to see who was the artist. And here and there the galleries had some contemporary works, works by current or former students. Today there are about 300 fulltime students.

It was the last weekend for a large Impressionism exhibit at the Philadelphia Museum of Art and this was a must. Even with tickets purchased ahead for the first time slot in the morning, we had to wait in line about 15 minutes to get into the exhibit. This exhibit focused on works that were acquired and exhibited by Paul Durand-Ruel. He appreciated what the Impressionists were doing and was instrumental in both buying and exhibiting their work and in fostering their acceptance and later success. I found this perspective fascinating and was pleased to see a number of Impressionist paintings I had never seen before—works by Monet, Pissarro, and Sisley, among others.

That afternoon, we made a return visit to the Barnes Foundation, also on Philadelphia’s grand parkway. After seeing salon style in the Pennsylvania Academy gallery, we were re-calibrated for Barnes’ version. His combines many paintings on each wall, but graced with the addition of metal hardware such as hinges and door pulls above and furniture, small chests or tables bearing vases or candlesticks, below. Since our last visit, the Barnes now offers an audio guide which we opted to take. With its focus on one or two paintings per gallery, I felt much less overwhelmed by the sheer number of paintings on display. And I liked the fact that often the curators spoke about the paintings on either side of the featured one which gave me, the viewer, a slight peek into Barnes’ rationale for his ordering of the works.

It was also noteworthy that several works on display were ones that Durand-Ruel had either purchased or tried over many years to acquire. Lots and lots of Renoirs, some Cezannes, early Picassos, a number of Matisses, and also works by Americans such as Glackens. A very rich collection indeed and, somewhat ironically, given Mr. Barnes’ strictures which were in effect for many years, now you can buy reproductions in the form of postcards, note cards, and prints for framing!

IMG_7214IMG_7211IMG_7279The Philadelphia of 2015 shows off well. Center City has good signage, wonderful  architecture old and new, and great restaurants.

We had tasty tapas at Tinto and a good lunch at the restrainedly beautiful Granite Hill in the Philadelphia Museum of Art.

And there’s Dilworth Park.  We loved this addition to the cityscape! This new plaza surrounding city hall pulses with a grid of jetting fountains, serves up a café aptly named Sips, and invites slowing down with its stripes of green lawn. The whole is punctuated by jolts of color—electric blue, hot pink, and spring green—in the form of metal café tables and elegant slatted chairs.

IMG_7221There was even a very friendly and helpful city greeter! Overall a vibrant urban space that invites you to stop–study the soaring skyline, people watch, or just appreciate the ornate beauty of city hall.

READING  For anyone wishing to learn more about Philadelphia’s fascinating history, I have two book recommendations:

Puritan Boston and Quaker Philadelphia by Digby Baltzell and published in 1979.  Note, he coined the term WASP for White Anglo Saxon Protestant.

Philadelphia:  A 300-Year History by the Barra Foundation, published in 1982.