Manhattan Meandering: Fashion & Food

AT THE MET

A good friend came into the city for the day and she and I were engrossed for several hours viewing two exhibits at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. It was a rainy Friday and the corridors were packed with people. Fortunately, the first exhibit hall was less crowded so we could get a close up view of the paintings. Vigee le Brun was a French artist who lived from before the French Revolution into the 1840’s. Initially dismissed because she was female, she became popular in her day and was portrait artist of choice for many royals including Marie Antoinette. After her death, her work seems to have been overlooked or ignored for many years. Certainly, she was unknown to me until this exhibit. Some of the portraits were really stunning and I also enjoyed seeing the several self-portraits she painted over the years.

The Costume Institute exhibit, Manus ex Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology, was dense with museumgoers which made seeing the gowns occasionally challenging.  It is a fascinating study of the hand crafts (embroidery, pleating, beading, feathers, etc.) involved in the creation of haute couture over the years along with the use of the latest 3D printing to create nylon mesh and other unusual fabrics. Gowns by the Houses of Chanel, Dior, and Lagerfeld shared space with very edgy ones by the likes of Alexander McQueen and John Galliano.  The alcove spaces and the ethereal background music gave the whole experience a church-like feel. This exhibit runs until August and is definitely worth seeing.  For more info see The New York Timesreview article which also includes photos.2016-05-06 15.35.11

Flying Saucer Dress
Flying Saucer Dress

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FASHION IN FILM

Following on the fashion exhibit, we went to see Andrew Rossi’s new film, First Monday in May.  Note that Rossi also directed the compelling documentary, Page One: Inside the New York Times, about the challenges of staying relevant in the age of the Internet.  First Monday is a sumptuous, gorgeous look behind the scenes at the creation of the Met’s 2014 costume exhibit on China and the extravaganza of a gala that precedes the opening.  Stars here are Anna Wintour (her dresses and suits are almost as much fun to see as all the historical and contemporary gowns) and curator Andrew Bolton.  Running through the film is the idea that fashion equals art, and that it is only in recent times that fashion has been recognized and accepted as such. Visual treats!

 

DINING

Three new places for cozy dinners.

Café Loup on West 13th St. We sampled the chicken with tarragon and the fish and chips and were happy with both at this white-walled French bistro.  Also good were the mesclun salad and the house green salad.  It was crowded the night we were there with what looked to be lots of academics.2016-05-08 19.25.04

Doma na rohu.  A rustic German restaurant on 7th Ave with wood tables and an inviting bar.  Happy hour specials include the usual beer and wine and also pretzels with sausage and mustard.  Skip the veal schnitzel (dry and unadorned), but do tuck into the great sides—German potato salad, reminiscent of my grandmother’s version; very tasty browned spaetzle; and the so-called bowl of greens—a salad with cubes of beets, cherry tomatoes and a few slices of cucumber.

Trattoria Pesce Pasta.  On Bleecker Street, this is comfort food incarnate and perfect when you’re tuckered out from a long day—for us, said long day included a bus trip to Bethlehem and back.  We skipped salads and just enjoyed the sole with artichokes and sundried tomatoes (very saucy and not fancy) which hit the spot.   Sides were a choice of sautéed broccoli or spaghetti with red sauce. One of us was healthy and the other couldn’t resist the pasta which was surprisingly good!

 

All photos by JWFarrington (some rights reserved)

Header photo:  Jackson Square

 

 

Tidy Tidbits: Inside & Out

BOOK OF THE WEEK

Mary McGrory:  The First Queen of Journalism by John Norris.

Although this is a biography, it is perhaps even more a rollicking review of presidential campaigns and Congressional politics from the McCarthy hearings through the Bush eras, all as viewed from the perspective of columnist Mary McGrory and her colleagues.  Brash, yet elegant, Mary McGrory was a wielder of words and winsome charm.  She contrived to never have to carry her own luggage and was both chummy with and critical of presidential and politician friends from Jack and Bobby Kennedy to Gene McCarthy and Mario Cuomo.  Her column in the Washington Star ran for almost thirty years and when that newspaper folded, she joined the Washington Post, but never found its culture as pleasing as the warm, family-like atmosphere at the Star.  A pioneer in the field, her talent and dedication smoothed the way for other women columnists like today’s Maureen Dowd and Gail Collins.

ART WALK

Having house guests can be an incentive to visit a new place.  With my sister and brother-in-law from North Carolina, we took advantage of the Art Walk at the Ringling College of Art and Design  This small private school is situated on the northern edge of Sarasota, and its charming campus, tucked just off Tamiami Trail, is a mix of attractive Spanish architecture and more contemporary buildings.  For this event, six of the campus’ galleries were open and free to the public.  Included were a display of pieces from the Basch Collection of art glass, a tour of the letterpress lab, and the opening reception for an exhibition of works by alumnus Amer Kobaslija.  Faculty were also on hand to try to entice us to sign up for their continuing education courses, everything from creative writing to zentangle (a new structured way to create art) to metal working, to publishing interactive books online.  The morning downpour was over, the weather had cleared and walking around this snug campus was a different way to spend the late afternoon.

ON THE SMALL SCREEN

Thanks to the Chief Penguin, my treadmill workouts are now enhanced by watching the Spanish drama, Gran Hotelavailable on streaming NetflixCalled the Spanish “Downton Abbey,” and set in 1906, it is the story of the Alarcon family who own and run an elegant country hotel.  The matriarch, Dona Teresa, rules with an iron will and is not averse to employing chicanery, secrets, and lies to get her way.  Add in her beautiful daughter Alicia, a wayward son (Javier), the unexplained disappearance of one of the maids (Cristina), a waiter (Andres) who is the son of the head housekeeper, and the arrival of a young man (Julio) seeking answers about Cristina’s disappearance, and you have the makings of an entertaining and diverting stew.  Full of murders, mysterious letters, and implausible coincidences, it keeps getting better and better.  There are three seasons and I’m now into season 2 or about halfway through the 30+ episodes.  It is subtitled, but I don’t find that at all a problem, even while striding along on the treadmill!

 

Header Photo: Morning on Manatee Beach (copyright JWFarrington)

On the Road: Tar Heel State

 

North Carolina was a large source of tar, pitch and turpentine for many years and around the time of the Civil War became known as the Tar Heel State and its inhabitants Tar Heelers.  Tar was used to coat the bottom of boats and a large amount was exported to England.  Initially, the term was a derogatory one, but later was adopted favorably as the state’s and its residents’ nickname.

We spent a week in North Carolina at Thanksgiving. We didn’t see any tar or turpentine, but did enjoy touring the Reynolda House in Winston-Salem, country home of A. J. Reynolds of tobacco fame and his wife Katharine.  Katharine was a very progressive woman for her time (1920’s) and she oversaw the building of the home, the creation of a school for the workers, and the beginnings of a village.  At one time, 300 families lived on the estate.  Unfortunately, she died in childbirth and barely spent any time here.   The house is impressive—bungalow style with an expansive main room featuring double staircases and an Aeolian organ plus garden rooms, porches, a jazzy red and white lower level bar cum entertainment space, and a stunningly gorgeous swimming pool!  The bungalow movement emphasized fresh air for good health and the porches and patios are designed to promote it. There are also extensive gardens, most of which were dormant, but a few rose blooms and cabbage heads remained and the conservatory showcased seasonal poinsettias and a few bromeliads.

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The featured exhibit, The Artist’s Garden: American Impressionism and the Garden Movement, 1887-1920, is a very pleasing collection of paintings.  Some familiar names here, Childe Hassam, for example, but mostly not works we’d seen anywhere else.  Organized by the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts in Philadelphia, it is worth seeing.

 

Central North Carolina has a lot of clay and has been a locus for pottery since the 1700’s.  Seagrove, south of Greensboro, and the surrounding area abound with studios open to the public.  We were there the day before Thanksgiving so many studios were closed, but we took advantage of the North Carolina Pottery Center to get oriented and see samples of about 80 different potters’ work. We then visited three studios and vowed that we needed to return for a full day to leisurely tour the area.  As you can see, I prefer the more contemporary designs.

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Bookstores for Book Lovers

I’m a longtime connoisseur of bookstores, particularly independent ones.  I have my favorites in the U.S. and even a few in the U.K.  In my opinion, a good bookstore smells of paper and ink, is light on the non-book miscellaneous merchandise (note cards are fine), has nooks and corners where you can linger and browse, offers a comfortable chair or two, and is laid out more like a maze than an array of aisles.

In Durham, we re-visited The Regulator Bookshop, a favorite haunt for at least 30 years. Located in the bustling 9th Street business corridor, The Regulator is scruffy in a good way.  There is a side room off the main area devoted to magazines and greeting cards, an open area with tables of books and books on shelves, a raised area for kids’ books, and a very welcoming long banquette. Many years ago, I spent several hours in that spot reading to my young son while our car was being repaired.  Downstairs, where once there was a coffee bar, there is now a space for events surrounded by used books and remainder titles.  Overall the store is inviting and always lively with readers of all ages.

A more recent addition to my list is McIntyre’s Books in Fearrington Village (near Chapel Hill) where for ten years or so, we’ve whiled away an occasional hour or two.  It’s more genteel than The Regulator which, considering its clientele of largely retirees, makes sense.  The store is carpeted and feels like being inside a home.  There are multiple rooms (one devoted to books for children through teens), another with a fireplace and comfy chairs, and yet another in the back packed with mystery books.  There are appealing displays of the latest titles and staff recommendations along with a focus on local and regional fiction and nonfiction.  I always find something to buy—usually too many “somethings!”

Book of the Week

I just finished Colum McCann’s latest work, Thirteen Ways of Looking, which is a collection of one novella and several short stories.  Not only is McCann an elegant stylist who makes every word count, he is accessible and witty and portrays his characters with compassion and understanding.  The title novella beautifully captures the thought processes and asides of a retired judge as he reflects on his career and negotiates lunchtime conversation with his favorite waiter and his fragile son.  And I thought the last story of a damaged nun, an outlier who is revisited by past trauma, was brilliant.  The New York Times included this title among its 100 notable books of the year.

Header image:  Discovery Room at the North Carolina Museum of Natural Sciences in Raleigh

(All photos copyright by JWFarrington)

Tidy Tidbits: Culture Notes

Not the Season But

You soon learn when you move here, that everyone refers to “the season.” The season runs from after Christmas through April and perhaps into May. It’s when the snowbirds fly south, all of the part-time residents are back, and the cultural season is in full swing. That said, although the season has not yet arrived, the pace has picked up, and there is a seemingly endless parade of local festivals and fairs, everything from chalk in Venice to blues in Bradenton. Recently, we enjoyed our first Sarasota Orchestra concert for 2015-16, the Sarasota Opera’s very fine production of “La Boheme” and the South Florida Museum’s annual Snooty Gala. Pianist Marc Andre Hamelin and the orchestra presented a memorable performance of Beethoven’s “Emperor” concerto along with two pieces by Shostakovich. An upcoming orchestra concert will feature violinist Leila Josefowicz whom we got to know during her years of study at the Curtis Institute.

On the Small Screen

These two TV series on PBS have ended or almost so, but I do think they are worth mentioning. In “Home Fires,” the focus is on the women in a small English town and their desire to help the war effort, but also on the rivalry for leadership of the Women’s Institute. Absorbing and convincing, it will immerse you in the daily lives of the villagers as tensions develop over the impending war.

The characters are many, the social and political alliances tangled and complex, and the accents sometimes thick, but “Indian Summers” is worth one’s time. Set in the early 1930’s at a summer retreat in the Himalayas, it depicts the waning power of the ruling British Colonials and the rising protest of the native classes. Both series are available on DVD.

On the Page

Empty Mansions: The Mysterious Life of Huguette Clark and the Spending of a Great American Fortune by Bill Dedman and Paul Clark Newell, Jr.

Some of you may recall the stir that was caused when Ms. Clark died at age 104 in 2011, and it was discovered that she owned several sumptuous properties preserved, but not lived in for decades.  They included a chateau style house in Connecticut purchased as a safe house, but never furnished and never visited. Raised in luxury in elegant surroundings on Fifth Avenue, Huguette Clark ended up living the last twenty years in a small, spare hospital room.

While occasionally reading like a sales catalog of fancy goods and art, this is both a lively family history (the first quarter details her father’s creation of a business empire the equal of the Rockefellers and his colorful, questionable career as a U.S. senator) and a fascinating account of this eccentric, strange, and yet generous woman.  Most of the people who worked for her or advised her never met her and dealt with her through letters or phone calls or via the few trusted individuals in her employ. She purchased dolls and art for her own enjoyment while giving away millions of dollars to staff and friends. Dedman’s co-author is Ms. Clark’s grandson and the inclusion of his phone conversations with Huguette shows a more personal side to this very private, secretive woman.