Cruising to Mexico

CRUISING

Some folks choose a cruise for the ports of call, others for just the experience of being at sea.  The motivation for our five-day Western Caribbean cruise was a gathering of the Chief Penguin’s cousins.  Some of these cousins saw each other weekly as kids, but hadn’t spent any appreciable time together in years except for an occasional family reunion.  Counting us, there were nine in the group hailing from Colorado, Virginia, upstate New York, and Florida.

    

Our ship was Royal Caribbean’s Brilliance of the Seas.  It’s one of the smaller ones in their fleet, but, by my lights, it’s large carrying more than 2,000 passengers and hundreds of crew.  Like many ships of this sort, it has the requisite number of glitzy spaces.    Lots of bars and lounges and music almost everywhere; during the day piped music and at night, performers of all sorts—singers, bands, shows, all with loud, if not blaring music.  In fact, it’s hard to escape the music, but we did find a few spots that were quiet and peaceful.  One evening we enjoyed a small orchestra playing big band music, most of which was danceable.   If you want classical violin or country music, you could find that too, and late at night there’s usually a disco experience somewhere.  We sailed during March, spring break time, and a preponderance of passengers were college students, families with small children fleeing the still snowy north, and teachers escaping the classroom, along with a smaller coterie of senior citizens.

Royal Caribbean sells drink packages which we didn’t buy. We were sometimes the beneficiaries of the Chief Penguin’s cousins’ generous perks and didn’t plan to drink that much.  But, given that on this line, you pay for every drink except water, juices, coffee and tea, you’d think that the staff would be more present in the lounges encouraging you to imbibe.  Not so.  Occasionally, service for a pre-dinner glass of wine was slow or non-existent.

Food was plentiful and, mostly very good.  The range of selections in the Windjammer Café for breakfast and lunch (we didn’t eat dinner here) was extensive! Everything from eggs, bacon, sausage, pancakes, waffles, cereal, fruits, smoked salmon, toast and English muffins, omelets, and probably twenty-five different kinds of pastries, doughnuts and rolls!  At lunch, you could always get hamburgers, hot dogs and fries, but also hot dishes like fried chicken, a Moroccan veggie stew, chicken curry, salad fixings from an appetizing salad bar, plus pizza, beef stew, rice, and pasta.   And then cookies, puddings, cakes and soft serve ice cream for dessert.  It’s easy to over indulge and hard to go hungry!  There was even a gluten free corner on one of the many stations.

We opted for dinner in the formal dining room, Minstrel, and, Cousin Jane, our tour director, had arranged for us to have a set table every night at 6:00 pm.  Table 326 was round and worked well for the group.  We had the same two great waiters, Swapneel and Vasiljie, every night.  I do have to say that the dining room was always full and felt crowded, but the service was efficient.  The wait staff worked hard to see that you got your food in a timely fashion.  The dinner menu offered three courses with five or six choices in each course and three special entrées for which you paid extra.  Some items were regulars, but there was always something different too.

My horseradish-crusted salmon was delicious and my chicken cordon blue nicely prepared, but a bit skimpy on the filling.  The arugula and radicchio salad was good, the Caesar one adequate.  It’s traditional fare; if you desire pork vindaloo, Windjammer is your spot.

We had two full days at sea, and, if you want to be active, besides the pool area, there was a rock climbing wall, fitness center, basketball court, shops to explore, and classes to attend, plus the casino.  Or, like us, you can find a quiet nook to sit and read and watch the rippling waves.

Our first port was Key West, a town we visited twenty-five years ago with our then pre-teen son.  We disembarked after the long lines for the trolleys wound down and spent a brief time re-exploring the downtown.  Sloppy Joe’s, Hog’s Breath Saloon, and the Banyan Tree Inn are all still in business.  

And I even remembered the name of the resort (The Reach) where we stayed before!  With its funky, quirky ambiance, carefree style, and more bars and restaurants than you can name, Key West is Florida’s answer to New Orleans.

After a day at sea, we docked at the port in Cozumel, an island twelve miles off the Yucatán peninsula. There were six cruise ships in the port.   

 

Once we disembarked for the many shops on the pier, we were part of a huge throng of tourists.  Shopkeepers were outside optimistically hustling for sales which we resisted.  We made the circuit of the stores, walked toward the taxi stand with the idea of going into San Miguel several miles away, but were deterred by the long queue.  We then debated getting a mid-morning beer or a margarita but didn’t.  We headed back to the ship for lunch (and a beer) followed by several laps around the outside pool deck.  Each night there was some sort of performance ranging from a magician to the Las Vegas Tenors to the crew’s big show on the last night.  

I think the cousins enjoyed each other’s company—possibly more than they expected—-and as the cruise progressed, more time was spent together after breakfast and at lunch.  A big thank you to Jane and Ed, seasoned cruisers, for making an enjoyable experience even more so!

Our port of embarkation was Tampa and the boarding process was quite well organized.  Disembarking, if you carried your own luggage, was very efficient and customs and re-entry to the U.S. speedy.  We were off the ship, through customs, and at our car at the cruise parking garage in about 30 minutes.  Would I do this again?  Yes, as we’ve discovered that cruising out of Tampa is easy, and being aboard the ship, whatever your destination, is a relaxing change of pace—a vacation from retirement!

READING–FAMILY SECRETS

I enjoyed two novels while at sea.  Here are my thoughts on one of them.

The Heirs by Susan Rieger.  Rupert Falkes, an English orphan, became a very successful lawyer, and he and his wife Eleanor had five sons.  When he dies, a strange woman comes forward claiming that her two sons were his.  While this event is disturbing, the novel focuses more on the sons’ past lives and their relationships with their mother and with each other.  Upper class and wealthy, the Falkes are a privileged lot living a privileged life in Manhattan.  Each chapter is told from the perspective of a different family member, and the reader becomes party to some of their secrets, but not others.

Rieger is especially astute on the close, but sometimes fraught, relations between parents and offspring.  Whatever she knows or thinks she knows about Rupert’s past and his possible involvement with another woman, Eleanor never lets on to her children.  She evinces more benevolence than hatred or upset toward these interlopers.  Infidelity and competition recur throughout this family as they contemplate both their father’s legacy and what form of legacy they might leave. It’s a little hard to keep the sons straight, but Sam stands out as the gay brother who desperately wants to have a child.  An enjoyable read, particularly for anyone familiar with the New York scene.

 

Cruise Wind-up: A Dose of Fall

SAGUENAY

After Prince Edward Island, we cruised on to Gaspe (it wasn’t a very nice day and as we were anchored some distance from the town, not docked, we opted to stay on the ship) and then Saguenay River and Quebec City. Saguenay was a pleasant surprise. It’s a very small town, but we received the warmest welcome of anywhere! In fact, the town has won awards three times for providing the friendliest welcome anywhere in the world.  img_1016

Townsfolk dressed in period costumes greeted us with slices of blueberry pie, maple sugar on a stick, and the chance to test our skill by sawing a log (the Chief Penguin performed). This was all right outside the cruise terminal; further on, another ambassador practically embraced us with information and maps. img_1037 We wandered the few streets. Going into St. Alphonse, a beautiful Catholic church where we bemoaned the craziness of the presidential election with the greeters there, and then browsing the craft market before spending an hour using the free and robust wifi in the cruise terminal.

dsc01035QUEBEC CITY 

Quebec City dawned sunny with a blue blue sky and stunning fall colors. It was a crisp morning, only about 50 degrees, and we walked the lower town (some unusual hanging canoe art here) and then took the funicular up the hill to the commanding Chateau Frontenac and a panoramic view.  dsc01043We wandered around taking in the architecture and the beautiful yellow, orange and red trees (I think I overdosed on photographing the trees!) and then walked back down the hill to the ship. We repeated the process after lunch only without the funicular. Sitting near city hall, I was struck by two lifesize straw harvest figures offering up pumpkins.  Overall it was a day with lots of steps—and stairs!  dsc01067

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MONTREAL

We had opted to go on to Montreal by motor coach, on what most of us would call a bus. This wasn’t really necessary (we’ve been to Montreal many times) as the trip was longer than it needed to be and the hotel wasn’t properly equipped to handle this large influx of cruise passengers. Nonetheless, the raw rain we left in Quebec City had cleared and Montreal was mostly sunny and a balmy 75 degrees. The natives had shed their jackets and scarves and were practically skipping about. We spent the afternoon strolling the streets and sitting in the plaza outside the cathedral before savoring a lovely dinner at Toque with our travel companions. The dinner was the right way to cap off a marvelous trip!

All photos copyright JWFarrington (some rights reserved)

At Sea: Cruising Pt.2

IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

Life on the ship continues to be most pleasant. While on board, there are lots of options for entertainment and enlightenment and more food and drink than one can imagine. If so inclined, you can play Mahjongg or bridge, learn to knit, participate in fitness activities, refine your computer skills, watch a movie, borrow a book or CD from the library, attend a lecture, or walk the promenade deck around the perimeter of the ship (this latter something I’m determined to do at least once!).

We have enjoyed the musical offerings throughout the various venues on the ship: from the all-female string quartet playing classical music, to the sextet of instrumentalists and vocalists who provide music for dancing, to the ship’s symphony who are part of the big “shows” in the theater. Last night we had fun at the rousing “Across the Water” show which presented dancers and singers performing pop and rock songs from Britain to the USA ending with a long string of my favorite Beatles tunes.

Lounges and quiet corners abound and it’s easy to find a comfortable chair with a view of the water where you can read or nap or just plain veg.

SYDNEY (Cape Breton Island)
The highlight of our stop in Sydney was “Spirit of the Fiddle,” a performance of Cape Breton music by three accomplished musicians. Two men and one woman on violin, guitar, and keyboard, who switched around as to who played what.

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It was a great introduction to a range of Celtic gigs, reels and other tunes with a bit of Scottish step dancing tossed in. This step dancing is closer to the floor without the high kicks of Riverdance, but still requires fleet and intricate footwork. Seating was cabaret style and we sampled Scottish oat cakes, each plate on the tables anchored by a square of a different tartan. Cape Breton Island is known for its music and there is a 55 foot high all metal fiddle sculpture in front of the cruise pavilion.
Later in the day, we walked around this small town, population 30,000. It reminded me of upstate NY as we wandered the quiet streets, checked out the shopping (would you believe I bought a pair of my favorite brand of shoes?), and got briefed on some local history from the guide at the historic Anglican church, built as a garrison chapel. Our last stop was the Jost House where our gray-haired colorful guide amused us with quips and stories midst the history. Sydney had a long history of coal mining followed by the steel industry. Both are now long gone and the town counts on these visits from cruise ships.

CHARLOTTETOWN (Prince Edward Island)
Our stops in port are brief. Most of our cruising is done at night and hence, we arrive in port around 8:00 am and then depart generally around 5:00 pm. We arrived in the port at Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, just before 8:00 and the first excursions left right after that. Since I had signed us up for one of these, that meant we had to get up and get moving a bit earlier and at a less leisurely pace than we prefer.

The CP ended up not going, but I did the island drive and stop at Anne of Green Gables Heritage Center. Very well worth it! Charlottetown itself is pretty and charming with a strictly enforced prohibition on changing the facades of any building and the frame houses are all neatly kept and painted in a variety of handsome colors. There are no billboards and no landfills (everything is either recycled or burned). I was pleased to see autumn colors, finally!

Leaving the town, we drove by the malls and big box stores (yes, there’s even a Walmart), noted the many, many oyster beds in the shallows, stopped to see a few moored lobster boats, and then were able to tromp down to the sandy beach. Soil here is either red sandstone or red shale which tinges the ocean water a reddish brown near the shore. It was cold and very blustery so we quickly trod down the sandy path, looked at the waves and then rapidly retreated. After snapping the requisite photos of red dunes and rolling water!

We then headed to the town of Cavendish, site of the Green Gables center, a state or national park. The short film was a good introduction and included quotes from Lucy Maud Montgomery. Montgomery lived in Cavendish and it and this house were used in her series of novels about a young orphan girl named Anne Shirley, the first of which was published in 1908. Like many young girls, I loved and revered these books. They have since been translated into more than 15 languages.

We had time to tour the house, furnished as it was described in the books, and to get glimpses of the several walking and hiking trails also in the park before purchasing some Anne books or memorabilia in the gift shop.

At Sea: Cruising in the Maritimes

ON THE SHIP

The Chief Penguin and I are taking our first extensive cruise, something we’ve not done before, and are now in Nova Scotia. We had time in port in New York (more than we personally needed) and then a full day at sea.

The day at sea was a bit challenging for me as we had some swells, a remnant of Hurricane Matthew, which made for some prolonged rocking. Other than meals and attending an excellent lecture on Halifax and the Titanic and watching a magician perform card tricks and engage the small audience with puzzles, I spent the day lying low. Reading and even taking a nap.

Being first in port for a day and a half and then at sea for an entire day, I felt a bit encapsulated. However, the ship is lovely and abounds with venues and opportunities to eat and drink. You are never far from a friendly staff member who stops by to ask what you’d like to drink. Add to that an ice cream stand, a bistro for burgers and grilled cheese, afternoon tea with scones and mini sandwiches, a coffee bar that also serves pastry and several sumptuous buffets—and you’ll quickly see that your scale will be hard pressed to maintain the status quo! This in addition to the main dining room where you could order breakfast, lunch and dinner.

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Our day in Halifax dawned clear and bright with a blue blue sky and a pleasant 59 degrees. The boardwalk along the harbor is attractive and inviting even now when the season is obviously over. We toured the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic and were impressed with both the Titanic exhibit and the one on the 1917 horrific collision of two ships in the Halifax harbor resulting in one of the worst explosions in human history. There was also a smaller exhibit on the aborted Franklin expedition to the Arctic in the 1850’s.
Continuing our walk, we climbed the steep hill up Prince Street to the old clock tower, a very handsome wood frame building, and to the Citadel. Panoramic view of the city skyline and the harbor. Then onward to stroll in the public gardens and just beyond the historic Camp Hill cemetery.
Returning down the hill, we lunched at a tasty fish restaurant, McKelvies, and then made a brief stop in the sanctuary of St. Paul’s Anglican Church, built in 1749 and the oldest building in Halifax. It survived the 1917 explosion and you can see a shard of metal from that event which still pierces the wall in the entryway. Architecture in the city is a mix of historic buildings and lots of new construction. I was also struck by the sight of brightly colored Adirondack chairs and picnic tables scattered around several public plazas.