Suncoast Scene: Pages & Plates

This week brings you my thoughts on a wonderful novel and a round-up of local restaurants, mostly casual ones.

SERIOUSLY GOOD FICTION

The Women in the Castle by Jessica Shattuck.  I saw an ad for this book in the NY Times’ book review section and then one of my favorite booksellers said she thought it would become as big as All the Light We Cannot See.  That clinched it; I added it to my wish list, received it as a birthday gift, and was not disappointed.  Set in Germany after WWII, it’s about several of the widows of those who resisted Hitler and unsuccessfully plotted his death.

Marianne is the ring leader and organizer, a woman of strong principles and moral clarity, someone who sees the world primarily in black and white.  She rescues and gathers round her in her family’s dilapidated castle, the much younger Benita, widow of Marianne’s dear friend from childhood, Connie, and Benita’s son Martin, as well as Ania and her two boys who have been in a displaced persons camp.  Life is difficult in postwar Germany, food is scarce, and their world views and experiences turn out to be quite different from each other’s.  This leads to tension and misunderstandings.

Shattuck’s novel is compassionate and nuanced and simply beautiful.  She makes it possible to understand and empathize with each of these women and to see ourselves in Marianne’s righteousness and her all too human, knowing and not knowing.  I found the following passage especially moving, as many years later, Marianne reflects on a night when the Russians burned their horse for food:

“The dark uneasy quiet of the castle, the flickering shadows of the fire, and outside, the suspended carcass of Gilda’s body.  She can hear the crackle of sparks and the strange sounds of men’s voices gathering into a low and otherworldly song.  How grateful she had been to have Ania beside her—a fellow adult and human being, connected not through allegiance to any group or party or particular way of thinking but through the reality of the moment, through their shared will to get through the next hours, the next day, and the one afterward and through their shared determination to keep their children safe.

It is the great regret of her life that she lost this—no, that she forsook it.”

This is the best novel I’ve read so far this year.

MAGAZINE NOTE

For fans of Olive Kittredge, the May 1st issue of The New Yorker has a delightful piece about Elizabeth Strout’s attachment to Maine by Ariel Levy.

 

 DINING OUT

BRADENTON BISTRO

The Chief Penguin and I are discovering and re-discovering that Manatee Avenue West has a number of good restaurants.  In previous blogs, I’ve I mentioned Elodie (French) and Habanero’s Mexican Grill and Bar.  Last week we added EnRich Bistro to our list of must-returns.  John and Sue, Penn friends from Maryland, were vacationing in St. Pete and contacted us about getting together.  We met for lunch at EnRich and were delighted with the whole experience. 

We had been here some years ago under its old name, but the dining room was even more attractive than I recalled and very light and bright.  I sampled the salmon Caesar wrap special while the others enjoyed calamari salad, the signature Reuben, and their fish tacos.  The sweet hot wasabi vinaigrette on the salads was a hit.  As a treat, we indulged in a couple slices of their appropriately tart key lime pie.  Service was a tad slow, but wasn’t an issue since we were in relaxed mode with our friends.

SEAFOOD BY THE BAY  

Lately, it seems like every food or cooking magazine I pick up, there’s mention of the Seafood Shack in Cortez.  Soooo…since we’re eating out a lot due to some renovation work, we decided it was time to try it again.  Years ago we ate there and found it undistinguished.  This time we were more impressed.  We began with margaritas (they were part of a special promotion) and crabby nachos.  The nachos were a tasty twist on this standby with blue crab meat, queso fresco and scallions over a generous bed of multi-colored tortilla chips.  The C.P. liked his crab cakes and I found the Caesar salad acceptable, but thought the chicken nuggets on top somewhat lacking in flavor.  Other choices include grouper, burgers, shrimp and even some braised short ribs.  A storm was threatening rain so we took a table by the window.  On nicer days, outside would be preferable.

DOWN VENICE WAY

Sharky’s on the Pier

Sharky’s is an upscale restaurant on the second floor overlooking Venice beach and the Gulf.  The dining room is large and very attractive and, with plenty of window seating, you can watch the roll of the waves and see who’s in the water or on the pier.  

The lamb meatballs on a pita were excellent, our friend devoured every last leaf of his chicken and strawberry salad, and I sampled the shrimp boathouse salad.  I was a bit disappointed that the listed artichokes and feta cheese didn’t have a larger presence midst the greens.  The two shrimp on it were jumbo as stated, but, for the price, I think the salad merited at least three of them.  Overall it was very good with pleasant efficient service.   I’d happily return.

Notes:  All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).  Header photo is Venice beach.

Food for Mind & Body

HIGH NOTES

Last weekend, friends introduced us to one more of the musical gems that grace our cultural landscape.  In 2004, Toby Perlman, wife of famed violinist and conductor Itzhak Perlman, founded the Perlman Music Program/Suncoast.  This residency program in Sarasota brings together more than 30 young performers (ages 12-24) for about two weeks of classes, concerts and recitals.  We attended the last public event, a recital by some of the students, and were awed and impressed by the level of talent we heard.  So much so that we may need to add these events to our ever growing calendar!

Several friends have been recommending the Amazon series, Mozart in the Jungle, about life in a symphony orchestra, but we haven’t yet watched it.  At Music Monday, June LeBell interviewed Blair Tindall, oboist and author of the book on which it is based.  We saw several clips from the series, learned from Blair that all the actor musicians have to learn to play a little bit, and were treated to her playing.  Now we must watch the series!

  

UNEXAMINED LIFE

Be Near Me by Andrew O’HaganThis is a beautiful novel, one that will stay with you.  It’s an exquisitely crafted portrayal of a Catholic priest assigned to an insular Scottish town in the early 2000’s.  You know early on it will not end happily.  Father David Anderton is a man out of touch with himself and completely oblivious to how he is perceived by his flock.  In his 50’s, lonely, and aching for the affections and good times of his youth, he socializes with a pair of wayward teens, Mark and Lisa, and events unfold in the most inappropriate way.  Anderton’s plight is heartrending even though he brings it upon himself.

The depictions of his housekeeper (and friend) Mrs. Poole, his slightly wacky romance writing mother, his superior Bishop Gerard, and even the townspeople who destroy him are multi-faceted, even tender at points.  There is a fair bit of dialect and a few references to local culture that might not be familiar to all American readers.  First published in 2006, it was named a Best Book of the Year by Newsday, San Francisco Chronicle, and Plain Dealer (Cleveland).  Finally, I think my friends Joan and Bruce, in particular, would find it a satisfying and worthwhile read.

LOCAL EATS

Recently we sampled the cuisine at three area restaurants, one owned by a couple whose previous restaurant we really liked, one totally new to us, and the last one we may have visited some years ago.  All were good and all three rate return visits.

Elodie is a small attractive French restaurant created by the Flocards, Elodie and her husband chef, Bertrand, from Aix en Provence.  Their previous restaurant, French Table, on Anna Maria Island was tiny and parking was an issue.  Elodie, located in a shopping center on Manatee Avenue West in Bradenton, has indoor and outdoor seating and plenty of parking.  I thought their red snapper with lime and grilled vegetables was excellent and the chicken forester is one of my favorites.  Only open for dinner.

Flavors of India is on U.S. 41 in Bradenton and a tasty place for lunch or dinner. We dined there at noon and were pleased with the variety on the small appealing buffet.  Two kinds of rice, chicken vindaloo and butter chicken plus several vegetable dishes, goat curry, and green salad with two dessert choices rounding out the selection.  Add in tangy pickles and chutneys and life is spicy.  At lunch, the buffet is a modest $9.99.

Thai Palace.  Popular locally, as they say.  We had to wait for a table for dinner on a Saturday night, but the wait was short and definitely worth it!  Wait staff is friendly and I satisfied my curry craving with a very nice red curry with chicken.  The Chief Penguin ordered his standard test, pad Thai, and pronounced it excellent.  Lots of menu choices and all reasonably priced—we’ll go back!  It’s on Cortez Road also in Bradenton.

Note: Header photo from the restaurant’s website.