Maine: Boothbay & Beyond

MOON DAY

If you’re of a certain age, you probably remember exactly where you were fifty years ago today on July 20, 1969.  I had a summer job at Cornell University and was living in a rooming house near the campus.  My fiancé, now the Chief Penguin, was doing Air Force training in northern Maine at Loring Air Force base.  I lived in Ithaca without a car (I didn’t own one) and walked everywhere.  Usually my kind father came and retrieved me and I went home to Auburn for the weekend, but not this one.  (I think my folks were going out of town.)

Given how momentous an achievement the moon landing was, students and others were invited to gather in one of the Cornell lounges for the historic moon walk.  With no personal computers, iPads, or iPhones, twenty strangers and I sat, eyes glued to the small TV screen.  Transfixed, we held our collective breath and watched as Neil Armstrong took his first steps on the moon’s surface, planted the American flag, and uttered that memorable statement, “One small step for man, one giant leap for mankind.”  Although we might phrase it slightly differently today, it was an awesome occasion!  Now we have billionaires dangling the lure of space travel for ordinary people with dreams of getting to Mars.  Will travel to Mars really be in our future, who knows?

CURRENT READING

I bought Kiese Laymon’s Heavy: An American Memoir just because it looked interesting.  A black man raised in poverty in Mississippi, Laymon addresses this work to his mother, the “you” referred to throughout.  I am about halfway into it and not sure what my final response will be.  I’ll report back when I finish it.

COASTAL DINING

From Boothbay Harbor to Southport, we get around the local dining scene with multiple visits to favorite eateries. Here are a few notes on first visits for this season.

Harborside Tavern

We refer to this restaurant as Fiona’s Place since chef Fiona did a stint cooking at the Newagen Seaside Inn several years ago. The food that summer was especially memorable.  This year, instead of stopping for lunch at Sarah’s Café in Wiscasset (lots of construction going through town and torn up sidewalks), we continued on to Boothbay Harbor.  

The Chief Penguin ordered the chicken quesadilla (odd choice, some might say, but it’s one of his two standard lunch orders, the other being a Reuben), and I had my first lobster roll of the season paired with cole slaw instead of the fries.  Both were tasty and delicious combined with a view of the harbor from the second floor dining room.  Their dinner menu looks even more appealing so I sense we will be back!

Thistle Inn

It was fitting to have our first night’s dinner here as we’ve dined at the Thistle many times over the thirty summers we’ve come to Maine.  Recently, the food has only gotten better.  

We sat outside on the deck under the trees in a perfect corner table.   The Chief Penguin ordered the clam chowder, which he pronounced the best he’d ever had (have to agree based on my taste of it!) and the lobster tail in a brandy cream sauce, as pretty to look at as it was delectable.  I had the house green salad and the crab cakes.  Both were good, but not exceptional, while menu prices have increased.

Ports of Italy

This Italian restaurant remains one of our all-time go-to places and is consistently excellent. Homemade pasta, real thinly sliced veal prepared several ways, including the newest addition, scaloppini with pencil thin asparagus; and occasionally, by special request, veal saltimbocca. The Caesar salad is big enough for two and is nicely dressed with thin strips of Parmesan.  Inside is cozy, but the spot to be is on their screened porch above the street.  Nothing special about the view, but airy and just right for a summer night.  We have been coming here so many years now that both the maître d’ and Tony, the waiter, greet us warmly.  

Cozy’s Waterside

Charred shishito peppers

Our casual favorite, Oliver’s at Cozy Harbor on Southport, has been reincarnated as Cozy’s.  The menu is mostly burgers of all types, hot dogs, the requisite clam chowder and  lobster roll, other sandwiches, and a few salads.  We’ve had one dinner thus far and began with the wonderful shishito peppers. The Chief Penguin thought the fish and chips entree was an excellent rendition.  My grilled haddock sandwich on brioche was also quite nice.  I miss some of the fish entrées on the old menu so the jury is still out as to how often we will dine here.

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved). Header photo is an idle boat at Molly’s Cove.

Coastal Cuisine: Eating Around

Seafood, especially lobster rolls and fried haddock, is served everywhere in Maine, but there is a lot of other good food to be had too. For my friends and those who might be traveling to this coast, here are some of the places we’ve most enjoyed in the greater Boothbay region.

Harborside Tavern (Boothbay Harbor)

A familiar location with new owners and chef, this second floor space with its maple tables and chairs has outside seating on the screened porch overlooking the water and inside tables and a large square bar.  The quesadilla was one of the best I’ve ever had and their ribs and cole slaw also from the tavern menu were also very good.  From the entree listing, the halibut with steamed spinach on a bed of tomato risotto was both pretty and tasty.

Ports of Italy (Boothbay Harbor)

For something other than pizza, this longtime Italian favorite delivers consistently delicious fare.  Many of the pastas are homemade and their veal piccata served with julienned vegetables is an excellent rendition.  Located on the second floor, there are tables both inside and on their screened porch.  No view so either seating is acceptable.

Thistle Inn (Boothbay Harbor)

Up the hill from the waterfront, the Thistle Inn (dating from 1861) might at first seem more appropriate for winter than summer with its dim interior and cozy bar area.  But, they have lovely tables on their side porch and, in good weather, this is the place to be!  My favorites here include their butter poached lobster in pastry appetizer and the salmon entree. In my experience, you won’t go wrong whatever you choose.  And you can even arrange to stay overnight!

Newagen Seaside Inn (Southport Island)

This longtime resort is the scene of many weekend weddings, but also has a most attractive dining room–bar area, semi-circular porch and outside deck, all overlooking a broad lawn sloping down to the water.  The menu is nicely varied and includes everything from beef sliders to stuffed halibut to lobster and lobster rolls, chicken, and flatbreads.  I’m partial to their firecracker shrimp appetizer and recently, an herb crusted swordfish with mushroom risotto.  It’s open for lunch and dinner and can accommodate families with kids.

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Squire Tarbox Inn (Wiscasset)

This historic inn (originally built in 1763 with an 1820 addition) is in the country on Westport Island outside Wiscasset. It would be a cozy place in the cold weather with its fireplaces and dark wood.  In the summer, their screened porch is the place to be with a view out to the garden. The chef and co-owner is Swiss and his veal in a mushroom cream sauce served over rosti potatoes is tasty comfort food, no matter what the season. The house salad is fresh greens and includes a tangle of julienned celariac in a mustardy mayonnaise. Other entrees include lamb, duck breast, halibut and a seductive vichyssoise.  This is relaxed fine dining!

Francine (Camden)

This small mainly French restaurant just off the main drag is cozy and comfortable with very good food.  The halibut I had was perfectly cooked and attractively served with spinach and a few walnuts.  Others in our group raved about the corn soup and the lamb.

Hot Suppa (Portland)

Beyond the art museum and in an area less frequented by tourists, this little place is a haven for breakfast and lunch, although they also serve dinner.  We went for lunch and were surprised that it was packed so we had a 20 minute wait for a booth.  Definitely worth the wait!  Everything was delicious from the French egg scramble with cheese (and other additions you choose) to the corned beef hash to the eggs Benedict and the cole slaw.  Both the breakfast and lunch menus are available at lunchtime, hence cole slaw with my eggs!

 

Header photo by JWFarrington (some rights reserved)