Spain: Granada & Alhambra

ARAB DISTRICT

We had a fascinating day in Granada experiencing the narrow streets of the oldest neighborhood in Granada, the Albaicin. It existed and was inhabited before the construction of the Alhambra. After we went on to the Alhambra, both the lovely outer gardens and then into several of the palaces.

With our experienced guide Bianca, we took a cab to the highest point in Albaicin. Here we had a view of the remains of the ancient wall surrounding the city and in the distance quite far away the outline of the Alhambra. It sits up high and when one is closer, you can see its fortress-like thick walls and multiple towers.

We then meandered through a maze of winding streets bordered by the high white-washed walls of Muslim homes. Our guide knew just how to thread her way on these confusing streets without meeting any big tour groups. She noted that the Arabs kept their homes private, with usually no outside decoration, while high walls kept out intruders or lurkers. To provide shade over the inside courtyard, they put grape vines on a horizontal lattice called a “carmen.” More elaborate patios would have plants and possible a water source in the center and include tiles in some fashion.

After the conquest by the Catholic monarchs, although it was specified as a residence for Muslims, Christians began to create neighborhoods here as well. The Christian style of decoration was different; they added special stones around their doors or facades or added coats of arms to denote their status or degree of wealth.

THE ALHAMBRA

I knew that the Alhambra was a famous Muslim palace, but I didn’t realize that it was a whole little city apart from Granada that included gardens, crops, and a water supply that made it self-sufficient.

Its towers and high walls were for protection, and a series of emirs and rulers lived within these walls and palaces.

The complex was begun in 1238 by the first Nasrid emir and founder of the Emirate of Granada, the last Muslim state of what is now called Andalusia (then Al-Andalus.) Later rulers added significantly to the royal palaces during the 14th century.

With the Christian Re-conquest of 1492, this site became the royal court of Ferdinand and Isabella and was where Christopher Columbus received their support of his expedition. In the early 1500’s, King Charles V added a new Renaissance-style palace which was never finished and left to ruin. In 1812, alas, Napoleon destroyed several parts of the complex, so that only three palaces remain.

The Alhambra is such a vast complex of buildings and patterns that it is a challenge to portray it even simply in a few photos. Below are a few details seen in the palaces.

Later, the Alhambra became an attraction for the British and the Americans and other visitors including Washington Irving. While here, Irving wrote his short story collection, Tales of the Alhambra, published in 1832.

EVENING FARE

After a full day of exploring with lots and lots of steps and staircases and only seeing a portion of the Alhambra, we were ready for something to eat. We found the last table outside against a wall at Humo cafe.

We tucked into some delicious beef empanadas, fries, and a tasty artichoke, and then, along came a religious procession of clerics and others plus a band playing “Onward Christian Soldiers” as they marched. We wondered if it was a special saint’s day as a big float was part of this parade. Made for a most interesting evening!

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)