JOTS & JAUNTS

SQUARES, SHOPS, & TREATS

In our two days plus in Lisbon, we explored four major neighborhoods with Tiago, a guide who is also a former architect. He was brimming with facts and enthusiasm for his city.

Rua Augusta Arch at end of Commerce Square. This arch stands where the royal palace was before the 1755 earthquake. The square is very large abutting the Tagus River at the other end. It was “the door to Lisbon” and where commercial ships used to dock to unload their goods.

We learned about the history of Lisbon after the 1755 earthquake, visited several traditional shops (sardines, anyone?), walked some of its most famous and beautiful squares, and saw numerous monuments to historical figures from politicians to poets.

For tourists, Lisbon’s most famous square is most likely the one known informally as Rossio, but officially Plaça Dom Pedro IV, after the column of this king in the center.

Its cobblestones have a wavy pattern which makes it look like they are rolling or moving. The square has been in existence since the Middle Ages. Today, it is surrounded by cafes and shops and is a meeting place for locals and tourists.

Pillory of Lisbon, national monument, 19th c.

There were surprises like the pink street overhung with multi-colored umbrellas. There’s also a street with blue painted pavement, unusual, but not so colorful.

Later, we stopped at a hole-in-the-wall, but well marked, counter for a taste of ginjinha, a deep red liqueur made from small somewhat sour ginja berries.

You can get it with or without a berry in the glass—extra cost for any berries! The drink was fine, the berry sharp almost bitter.

TILES OLD & CONTEMPORARY

When you wander in Lisbon, it’s inevitable that you will see ceramic tiles. Old ones on building facades, contemporary designs on a restaurant wall, and tiles on signs or floors. Patterns range from the familiar blue ones to elaborate abstract designs to more representational styles with faces on them.