Just Food: Philadelphia & New York

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TRAIN TRAVEL

Earlier this week, we took Amtrak from the new Moynihan Train Hall to 30th Street Station in Philadelphia.  Constructed within the classic old Farley Post Office building, the Moynihan Train Hall is stunning and beautiful!  So new, it’s pristine and spacious with elegant arching struts and the occasional wash of magenta light.  

The train schedule boards are both numerous and easy to read.  The ticketed waiting room has both counter height seating with outlets for those who want to work and rounded soft benches.  It’s a long space with restrooms at either end.  My only quibble with the whole experience of departing and arriving is that the basement connections to the subway lines and Times Square need better wayfinding signage.  We made it work and got to Line 1, but not without some to-ing and fro-ing.  

LUNCH ON RITTENHOUSE SQUARE

Street near Rittenhouse Square

After Manhattan, the sidewalks of Philadelphia, as we walked from 30th Street Station (a grand station in its own right), seemed quiet and mostly empty of pedestrians.  The Rittenhouse Square area, on the other hand, was lively, and Parc, where we had lunch, a beehive of activity.  This French bistro has an attractive outdoor structure.  We had a lovely table and made our choices from a very appealing menu.  Our friend had mussels and tarte tatin while the Chief Penguin ordered tuna carpaccio followed by chicken paillard and then the baba au rhum.  I began with a sinfully rich celeriac soup topped with truffle duxelles followed by a warm shrimp salad.  The butterflied shrimp were perfectly cooked and set on a puddle of lemon beurre blanc alongside mixed greens with avocado.  It was delectable! And fun for us to be back in this familiar city.

MANHATTAN MEALS

Salt Mediterranean

Salt, a new Turkish/Mediterranean restaurant on the Upper East Side, opened several months ago.  We believe it inhabits the space left by one of our old favorites, El Porron, a tapas place.  Thinking that might be a good omen, we chatted outside with the owner one evening and decided to return for a meal.

Mostly, we were delighted with all the dishes we ordered.  The Turkish salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, feta, and walnuts was done chopped style and was simply delicious!  The lamb kebab with rice and greens was also excellent as were the baklava squares and the delicate almond pudding.  The only slight disappointment was the manti, meat-filled tiny pasta bites in a yogurt sauce.  We first had this dish in San Francisco at Troya, a neighborhood favorite, and then at A La Turku here in Manhattan. This version was a bit too doughy so the meat inside got lost.

Tri Dim Shanghai

We’re grateful to our co-grandparents for introducing us to Tri Dim Shanghai several months ago.  This spacious Chinese restaurant is a welcoming venue for lunch, dinner, or takeout.  We returned for lunch and were delighted with the Peking duck spring roll, the hot and sour soup, and the barbecued spareribs.  Leaning toward the tried and true, we ordered kung pao chicken which, while labeled spicy on the menu, seemed to have been dumbed down for Americans.  With the addition of some chili oil, it was tasty!  A Tsingtao beer completed the menu.  Next time we’ll explore other dishes. 

SWEET TREATS

William Greenburg Desserts

To top off a meal or just a long afternoon walk, the black and white cookies at William Greenberg are a must! Fancy cakes and sticky cinnamon rolls also fill their cases.

TABLE TALK

How often do you talk with strangers?  Recently, we had two engaging conversations with nearby diners.  The first was at the very popular, family friendly Tony’s di Napoli.  A lined slightly rumpled dark-haired woman at the next table smiled at us and asked us where we were from.  Later, she commented that we looked tanned and that the young woman with her was her granddaughter.  They had spent the day shopping, gone to lunch, and now were having dinner.  We heard about the achievements of her successful grandchildren and the arrival of her first great grandchild.  Slowly, the granddaughter warmed up a bit.  She is a student at Baruch College, and the Chief Penguin was able to tell her we know her president, a former dean at Lehigh.  A connection.

Last evening at Sel et Poivre, our comfort food French restaurant, two women had the table next to us.  The more voluble one announced, all in the same breath, that she had had her Covid booster that day and had just turned 80!  From that followed a lively conversation about her late husband, a literary agent for Steven King, and her accomplished extended family. Then, could I recommend a book to read.  Having just finished Great Circle, which I loved, I told her about it. 

Somehow, I mentioned having lived in Bethlehem. The second woman said her grandson was a freshman at Lehigh!  That led to more conversation about our past life in Bethlehem, the Lehigh campus, the upcoming inauguration of Lehigh’s new president, and where we stayed in Manhattan and why.  The first woman spends six months of the year in Venice, Florida, and the other woman knows a staff member at our granddaughters’ school.  More connections.  The whole experience made our evening memorable. And, since I gave her my card with the book title on it, I wouldn’t be surprised to hear from woman #1 in Florida!

Note: Photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).

Manhattan in the Fall

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RETURN TO MANHATTAN

Manhattan in late May was quite lively; Manhattan in October is brimming with energy.  Yes, there are a sad number of empty storefronts, but people are out and about and bustling here and there.  Outdoor dining structures remain popular while many restaurants seem to have been re-discovered.  Having to show proof of Covid vaccination to eat inside provides a welcome sense of comfort.  Waiters also are masked. 

Before arriving, we downloaded the NYCCOVIDSAFE app to our phones and added photos of our driver’s license and vaccine card.  Easy to do and easy to show this when entering a restaurant.  So far, we’ve dined at several favorite or familiar restaurants and one new to us. We also ventured to 34th Street to eye the old post office building, now transformed into the grand and soaring Moynihan Train Hall.  Such a magnificent improvement over tired Penn Station!

RESTAURANT REPORT

August

August’s attractive dining room

This small Upper East Side restaurant is cozy and welcoming. With mirrors on the back wall and above the bar, the space has a bit of an Art Deco feel about it.  Patrons were a mix of ages and gender with several couples, a table of four, and a single woman diner.  

Service was efficient and the menu intriguing.  Tempted to try several new dishes, we over ordered.  The warm cornbread came cut in pieces in a cute square cast iron dish.  A wire basket of zucchini strips looked like the world’s best skinny fries.  Both were very good!  

Zucchini strips

For entrees, we sampled the ahi tuna on crispy rice and the sole meuniere over spinach and marble potatoes.  They were also tasty.  Based on this one dinner, we will return to explore more of the menu.

Glazed ahi tuna

RECENT READING

SCIENCE IN THE TREE CANOPY

The Arbornaut:  A Life Discovering the Eighth Continent in the Trees above Us by Meg Lowman

Meg Lowman (canopymeg.com)

Decades before I knew Meg Lowman, I read a review of her first book, Life in the Treetops in the New York Times. I bought the book and read it and thought about using it as part of a presentation I was going to give.  We were in Florida around that time, and realizing she worked nearby, I contemplated contacting her to chat about her career.  I didn’t and the years passed.

Fast forward to late 2013 and I had the opportunity to meet Meg.  The Chief Penguin hired her at the California Academy of Sciences.  We got to know her and consider her a friend.  Early on, we celebrated New Year’s Day, January 2014, with a memorable picnic in Myakka River State Park.  Having grown up in winter climes, the idea of a picnic in January was unheard of, but appealing.  Meg was chief organizer.  We met some of her friends, ate well, and then climbed the canopy walkway she helped design.  On the tower, you are 75 feet up overlooking the trees and greenery below.

Meg’s new book, The Arbornaut, is partly memoir, partly science, and completely engaging.  From a childhood in upstate NY spent outdoors, to graduate school and research in Australia, to stints as a professor/single mom at two colleges, to field work and being an international ambassador for tree conservation, it’s a multi-faceted, varied life.  As one of the few, and sometimes the only woman, in class or out in the field, Meg faced discrimination, indifference, and occasional sexual harassment.  Yet her love of trees and her passion for saving this key planetary resource kept her plugging away, always creating partnerships for future collaborative work.  Along the way, she made it a priority to include and mentor girls and young women in her branch of science.

In person, Meg is exuberant and an enthusiast for her cause.  Her infectious spirit comes through on the page too.  I learned a LOT about the kinds of leaves in various tree canopies and about which or how many insects nibbled, chewed, or put holes in them.  Her explanations of the field work and her research studies are accessible and tinged with the occasional humorous bit.  

For her adventuring spirit, no challenge is too much.  Individual chapters on the treetop BioBlitz in remote Malaysia, preserving the church forests in Ethiopia, and tree climbing in Kansas with disabled individuals are all fascinating.  By the end, the reader is well acquainted with Meg the person and Meg the field biologist.  Highly recommended! (~JWFarrington)

Note: Header photo of the Queensboro Bridge and the food-related photos are ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).

Tidy Tidbits: A Novel & A Film

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A FORTHCOMING NOVEL

INDIAN WOMEN AND RELIGIOUS POLITICS

Honor by Thrity Umrigar

Thrity Umrigar (esalen.org)

I received this novel as an Advance Reading Copy (ARC) through BookBrowse, an e-mail newsletter that I recently discovered.   It will be published in January 2022.  I devoured the book in a day and a half and loved it!

Indian American journalist Smita reports on gender issues and travels the world to do so.  As a favor to a colleague, she returns to India after 20 years away.  Initially she does not realize that she will be covering the verdict in a trial of two Hindu brothers who maimed their sister and murdered her Muslim husband.  Through her main characters, author Umrigar presents several differing perspectives on India.  The reader is kept wondering for most of the novel why Smita has such a scornful, negative view of her native land.  Affluent Mohan, a professional man, lives in Mumbai and loves it despite its complexities.  Meena, the severely injured wife and mother, lives in a poor village and chafes under her brothers’ dictates.  She challenges what is deemed allowable behavior for a Hindu woman by working in a factory and then marrying Abdul.

The novel unfolds slowly as Smita travels with Mohan, filling in as driver, to interview Meena and several others.  Smita questions why she feels so hateful toward her country while simultaneously both resenting and appreciating Mohan’s decency and kindness.  The concept of “honor” and what it means whether one is Hindu or Muslim plays out against violence, corruption, love, and sympathy in a multi-faceted society.

Some years ago, I read The Space Between Us, another novel by this author about class differences between two women.  I thought it was very good, but this new novel is more powerful.  (~JWFarrington)

A RECENT FILM

LOVE IN THE 1960’S

Last Letter from Your Lover (Netflix)

Jennifer & Boot (refinery29.com)

Based on a novel of the same name by JoJo Moyes, this romantic drama is schmaltzy, but good entertainment.  Jennifer Stirling is trapped in a loveless marriage, controlled by her husband and constrained by the times.  Enigmatic throughout, but elegant in dresses, hats, and gloves, she attracts the attention of reporter Anthony, aka Boot, O’Hare, and they begin an affair.  Decades later, one of his letters turns up in a newspaper archive.  Young reporter Elly Haworth makes it her mission to identify the correspondents.  

Of the principals, Jennifer is the least substantial character, and one wonders what other than her beauty has kept Boot’s interest.  I watched this while on the treadmill and it kept me moving!  (~JWFarrington)

Note: Header image of woman reading courtesy of readersdigest.co.uk

Tidy Tidbits: Gander, Oxford, New York

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This week’s blog brings together several compelling works. One is a musical related to 9/11 while the other two are books. One book is a wonderful novel about the creation of the Oxford English Dictionary, while the other is a cancer memoir, painful yet ultimately redeeming.

POWERFUL VIEWING: Remembering 9/11

Come from Away (Apple TV+)

Plane on the tarmac at Gander (appleinsider.com)

I doubt there is anyone of a certain age who doesn’t recall where he or she was on September 11, 2001. Come from Away (2013) is a musical about the passengers whose planes were diverted to Gander, Newfoundland, and how they were embraced by the local residents.   Unabashedly energetic, even boisterous, it is also a compelling and heart-tugging perspective on five days of confusion, chaos, and community.  Folks of different religions, nationalities, and cultures were thrown together at a tragic, uncomfortable time.   

Members of the cast play multiple roles, switching back and forth from Gander community leaders to one of the many passengers.  Standouts for me were the female airline pilot played by Jenn Colella based on the real Beverley Bass; Joel Hatch as the mayor of Gander; and Beulah Davis, chief organizer and comforter, played by Astrid Van Wieren.  There is conflict, craziness, and coming together.  I found watching it an uplifting experience.  A live Broadway performance was filmed for this production and is aired with no breaks or intermission.  Highly recommended!

RECENT READING

THE LANGUAGE OF WOMEN

The Dictionary of Lost Words by Pip Williams 

Author & her book jacket (betterreading.com.au)

I loved this novel and read it in just a day.  If you love words and their meanings and how they are used, you too will be fascinated.  Author Williams wondered how gender affects the use and understanding of words.   Given that the first edition of the Oxford English Dictionary was largely the work of older white Victorian men, she crafted a novel that reflects first a child’s, then a young woman’s participation in the creation of the dictionary.  Some of the characters such as Dr. James Murray, the chief architect, and several of the male lexicographers are historic figures. So is Edith Thompson, a historian who contributed definitions and quotations for many thousands of entries.

The novel focuses on Esme, a child of six, who hides under the sorting table collecting the occasional stray definition slip of paper. Over the course of publication of all the fascicles from A-B to Z , Esme becomes a woman.    Esme spends hours in the Scriptorium where the work is carried out.  As she gets older, she becomes involved in sorting mail, then checking quotes at the Bodleian and other libraries, and eventually taking on some editing and correction duties.  Lizzie, the household maid of all work, takes care of Esme and a friendship develops.

Esme is curious and full of questions and begins to wonder why some words, particularly those spoken by the lower classes, but not written down in books, are not to be included in the OED.  She gets a graphic education in colorful language from Mabel, a down-at-the-heels vendor in the local market and creates her own slips with quotations for these less than polite terms. An only child whose mother has died, Esme leads a sheltered life until she meets actress Tilda and her brother Bill, encounters the suffragist movement, and delivers pages to the typesetting room at the press where she meets Gareth, a handsome young compositor.

The novel relates the laborious process of releasing the letters of the alphabet in sections from 1888 to completion in 1928 alongside the coming-of-age of Esme from age six to middle age.  For Esme, the treatment of the suffragettes is disturbing, while the exodus of men to war means more work coupled with an all-consuming worry for their safety. How Williams weaves in the suffrage movement and the impact of WWI add to the richness of this story. But, some readers may be surprised at the ending and question if the author wraps things up too neatly.

Esme is not a common name. I wondered if Williams chose it as homage to J. D. Salinger’s notable story, For Esme with Love and Squalor, about a 13-year-old girl and a soldier during the Second World War.  

Like the process of compiling a comprehensive dictionary, this novel unfolds slowly and gradually.  I was committed to it from the first paragraphs.  Highly recommended!  (~JWFarrington)

CANCER AND BEYOND

Between Two Kingdoms: A Memoir of a Life Interrupted by Suleika Jaouad

Author Jaouad (latimes.com)

Cancer memoirs often take one of two forms.  Either they are an account of battling and surviving the medical aspects of cancer or they are one individual’s experience and reflections which end just before death.  Ms. Jaouad’s memoir is somewhat different in that she was diagnosed with leukemia at age 22, just after completing college.  It was a delayed diagnosis, and she was by then very sick. She underwent massive chemotherapy treatments, endured numerous hospitalizations due to infections, and ultimately required a bone marrow transplant, a long and arduous process involving months of isolation.  

The medical details in the first part of her memoir are graphic, frightening and often unpleasant.  Yet she writes about them with candor, humility, and even occasional humor.  She was blessed with loving parents and an unbelievable new boyfriend who re-arranged his life to be her primary caregiver.  

What is perhaps more appealing is part two in which she attempts to regain a sense of normalcy.  All treatments are over, and she’s deemed able to travel and work again.  Yet her immune system is still, and may always be, fragile.  She tires easily and finds it difficult to focus and apply herself without the goal of the next medical procedure.  How to be normal again is not something the medical team has covered.  

Probably what saves her, or at least provides emotional and intellectual sustenance, is a solo cross-country journey she undertakes.  Dubbed the One Hundred Day Project, it is to visit individuals who wrote or e-mailed her after she published a regular column in the New York Times. Meeting these almost strangers, Jaouad gains perspective on herself and reflects on how she was often self-centered and needy in some of her relationships.  I found this section of the book satisfying as she finally goes beyond her four years of treatment and comes into her own as a more well-rounded person.  I wouldn’t recommend this book to everyone, but some readers may find her journey amazing and her sprightly writing a gift.  (~JWFarrington)

Note: Header photo of morning clouds ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).