On the Road: Greensboro, NC

We spent Thanksgiving week in Carolina visiting family in Greensboro and then Chapel Hill.  It was lovely to see fall colors and to scuffle and crunch along in the fallen leaves.  Thanks to Ann and Paul, in Greensboro, we enjoyed several outdoor attractions plus a museum. Here are some of the highlights.

ATTRACTIONS

Greensboro Arboretum

Chimes in Greensboro Arboretum

The 17-acre Greensboro Arboretum combines paved paths for easy walking and a host of special plant collections ranging from conifers to hostas to a rhododendron garden and a shade garden.  For us in late November, little was in bloom, so what was most appealing were the tall trees holding on to yellow gold leaves.  Adding to our enjoyment were several sculptures, one tall one with chimes.  It was quiet and serene on a Sunday afternoon, and we only passed one other visitor.

Fall foliage in the arboretum

Guilford Courthouse National Military Park

Guilford Courthouse, a small village, was the scene of a critical battle in the Revolutionary War in 1781.  Although the Americans were defeated, Major General Nathanael Greene lost only a few soldiers.  Nearly a quarter of British Lt. General Cornwallis’ troops died in this battle, resulting in a change in course for the Southern Campaign.  Cornwallis was reputed to have said, “Greene is as dangerous as Washington.  I never feel secure when encamped in his neighbourhood.”     

Continental Army camp follower

The park’s small museum has exhibits describing the key players in the battle, figures dressed in the uniforms of each side, and facts about life in this rural area.  We watched a 10-minute introductory film which provided a very helpful animated depiction of where the American and the British troops were positioned and how the battle played out.  

Outside we wandered around the battle site noting the occasional sculpture or memorial marker.  It was an informative morning and much more interesting than I had anticipated!

Golden woods at Guilford Courthouse

Green Hill Cemetery

Opened in 1877, this large city-owned cemetery is full of history.  Many prominent families in Greensboro purchased plots here.  Many of the family plots are circular ones, a popular style in the 19th century, which allowed for a central piece of sculpture such as an obelisk to be ringed by individual headstones.  

View in Green Hill Cemetery

At Guilford Courthouse, we noted a pedestal dedicated to one of the founders of the military park along with the names of two other men.  In the cemetery, we wandered, took photos, noted some exotic tree species (Chinese parasol tree, for one), and found the gravesite of one Guilford Courthouse’s founders.  It was a lovely afternoon with splashes of sunlight, and the surrounding trees were especially beautiful!

Glowing fall foliage

LUNCH OUT

Osteria

Osteria is in a small shopping strip.  We had eaten here before with my sister and brother-in-law and were delighted to return.  Their menu includes salads, homemade pasta, and more substantial entrees.  Several of us began with the house salad or the panzanella and both were very good and good sized.  Their mushroom soup was also pronounced excellent.  I really enjoyed the strozzapreti pasta with creamy tomato meat sauce while others sampled fettucine with peas and prosciutto and gnocchi pesto.  Not only was the food very tasty, but it was also a good value!

BOOK SHOPPING

Scuppernong Books

A visit to Greensboro is not complete without some time to browse and buy in Scuppernong Books.  An independent bookstore with a café (offering wine), it both feels and smells like a bookstore should!  In stock are the latest fiction and nonfiction hardbacks, newly released paperbacks, and an extensive and well-curated children’s section.  In the back are two walls of gently used books.  

We browsed and lingered and even bought!  For the curious, the store is named for a Southern grape used to make a sweet wine.

Interior of Scuppernong (downtowngreensboro.org)

Note: All unattributed photos ©JWFarrington. Header photo is of metal silhouettes of soldiers at Guilford Courthouse National Military Park.

Snippets for Late November

WATCHING

Family Business (Acorn)

Astrid, Audrey, Sofia (amazon.com)

This French series features an all-female legal firm practicing family law.  Think marriage contracts, divorces, custody issues, and adoption.  Two of the three lawyers are a mother, Astrid, and her daughter, Audrey, plus Sofia, the second partner.  Both partners are single, while Audrey has two children and a somewhat hapless husband.  The cases are serious, but also sometimes bizarre:  a custody battle over a stubborn bulldog, for example.  

Add in a large dollop of sex and you have moments that are fun and frivolous.  Note the fashionable clothes and the always in vogue, stiletto heels.  There are at least two seasons and I’m about a third of the way through Season 1.

READING

Both/And:  A Life in Many Worlds by Huma Abedin

Author Abedin (slate.com)

Many people know Huma Abedin, longtime aide to Hillary Clinton, mainly because of her husband Anthony Weiner.  But there is much more to this woman than her role as a suffering spouse.  With an Indian father and a Pakistani mother, she was raised Muslim and grew up alternating between Kalamazoo, Michigan, and Jeddah, Saudi Arabia.  Her father’s scholarly work and academic career meant they traveled abroad extensively.  Starting her post-college life as a White House intern, Huma quickly advanced to more responsible positions until she became one of Clinton’s closest staff members.  I am about one-third into the book and have yet to meet her future spouse.  

I’ve enjoyed learning about her childhood experiences and reading the details of what it’s like to be an advance person or a trip coordinator for a high-level politician.  Thus far, her perspective on Clinton is positive and almost affectionate.  She is fair and not at all mean spirited about others in her work orbit.   I imagine Abedin’s charmed life will become less so as events unfold.  

DINING REPRISE

Bonefish Grill in Bradenton 

Bonefish Grill is a chain restaurant, founded and headquartered in Tampa, and a consistently very good one.  We frequently dine at their Cortez Road location about a 5-minute drive from home and are seldom disappointed.  The prices are reasonable, there are weekly specials, and the fish is fresh.  

The Chief Penguin is a big fan of their ahi tuna sashimi and the Wagyu beef dumplings, while I like the grilled shrimp and scallop combo or salmon with mango salsa.  The Caesar and house salads (the latter with hearts of palm and black olives) are also good.  If you’re feeling decadent, forget calories with their famous Bang Bang Shrimp.  For drinks, have a glass of Chardonnay or indulge in a smoked old fashioned. The wait staff changes frequently, but the food is always reliable!

Crime, Music & Great Books

VIEWING: CRIME IN THE UK

Shetland (BritBox)

Sandy & Tosh with Jimmy (radiottimes.com)

Jimmy Perez is back! I missed the Scottish crime series Shetland, when it went into hiatus after five seasons.  I was delighted to discover that Season 6 is now available on BritBox, not sure about on other online services.   New episodes are released on Tuesdays.   The Chief Penguin and I eagerly watched the first episode, and were not disappointed.  Detective Jimmy Perez is at his mother’s funeral when his colleague Tosh notifies him of the death of a prominent member of the community.  As in other seasons, the investigation begins, but is not completed in one episode.  As I think of the many crime series I’ve watched over the past few years, this one ranks among the best! 

The Long Call (BritBox)

Brethren members with Detective Matthew Venn (thescottishsun.co.uk)

While browsing new offerings on Amazon Prime, I came upon this other offering through BritBox.  It’s another crime series set in England, and it’s based on work by Ann Cleeves.  Ms. Cleeves is the very successful author of the Shetland series mysteries and ones featuring detective Vera (also a series, but not one I’ve watched).  Here detective Matthew Venn, a gay man, is estranged from his family.  He grew up in a closed, tightly ordered religious society and left about twenty years ago full of bitterness, anger, and sorrow.  When a young girl in that community goes missing, he and his police colleagues are tasked with locating her.  Like Shetland, this is a compelling drama of relationships as much as it is about crime.  There are 4 episodes in this season.

VIEWING: MUSICAL HISTORY

Oratorio (PBS, etc.)

Scorsese sitting in Old St. Patrick’s (pbs.org)

In the lovingly told documentary, Martin Scorsese brings to life the history of an 1826 opera concert in Old St. Patrick’s Cathedral in New York.  Scorsese provides background on the historical figures, Mozart’s librettist, for one, who were central to the concert, and details the concert’s role in forming the city’s cultural life.  The re-creation of this event in 2018 for a modern audience is the motivation for the film.  

Scorsese grew up near the cathedral and has fond recollections of the neighborhood and the role of this church in his life.  As concert plans and preparations are underway, there are interviews and clips with the maestro and soloists of Teatro Lirico Cagliari of Italy who will perform.  Overall, it’s a fascinating piece of history. And, if you are so inclined, you can separately watch the 2018 performance also on PBS.

AWARD BOOKS:  A GREAT READING ASSIGNMENT

I receive Washington Post book reviewer Ron Charles’ e-mail newsletter, Book Club, each week.  His take on new literature is always informative, often quirky, and piques my interest in what I might read next. In this week’s issue, he detailed an assignment his high school teacher spouse gives her students.  I think it’s a great assignment and so, I’m sharing it and at the end the books the students will be evaluating.  You can read another issue of his newsletter here.

My wife, Dawn, has started one of her favorite projects with her 11th graders. She brings in copies of the five finalists for the National Book Award in Nonfiction and breaks the class into five groups. Each group reads the first chapter of one of the finalists. Then the students devise criteria for a winning book and explain to the class how well their finalist meets those standards. 

Next Wednesday, just hours before the National Book Awards ceremony, her students will vote on which title they think should win. It’s a fun way to introduce these kids to the country’s best new nonfiction books.

You can follow along, too. The NBA ceremony will stream on Nov. 17 at 7 p.m. ET. (free, but donations appreciated). I’ll be there (virtually) to introduce Nancy Pearl, winner of this year’s Literarian Award for Outstanding Service to the American Literary Community.

NONFICTION FINALISTS

Hanif AbdurraqibA Little Devil in America: Notes in Praise of Black Performance

Lucas BessireRunning Out: In Search of Water on the High Plains

Grace M. ChoTastes Like War: A Memoir

Nicole EustaceCovered with Night: A Story of Murder and Indigenous Justice in Early America

Tiya MilesAll That She Carried: The Journey of Ashley’s Sack, a Black Family Keepsake

Watching: Three Superb Series

With the arrival of cooler weather, perhaps you are spending more time indoors, When you get tired of reading or knitting, I have three top-notch television series to recommend.

Call the Midwife (PBS)

Nurse Crane & Sister Julienne (bbc.co.uk)

It’s hard to believe that this is the 10th season of Call the Midwife.  Early seasons drew extensively from the memoirs of midwife Jennifer Worth.  Successive seasons have built on the premise of an order of nun midwives working alongside secular midwives to serve a poor East London community.  While some viewers may feel that the series is too sentimental, more recent episodes highlight medical and social issues such as Thalidomide babies and domestic abuse.  

The current season, which the Chief Penguin and I binge watched, is both sober and thought provoking.  It is 1966 in Poplar, the Beatles are popular, and England is in the World Cup.  Abortion, Down syndrome, race, and wretched housing condition all figure here.  And yet, your favorite midwives, from the often wise Sister Monica Joan, compassionate yet firm Sister Julienne, and outspoken but oh, so caring Trixie, aka Nurse Franklin, persevere.  As the voiceover before every episode states, it’s definitely for mature audiences.  

Grantchester (PBS)

Leonard Finch (distractify.com)

Grantchester too is a keeper, and the seasons keep coming.  Most of us have adjusted to Sydney’s replacement by Will as the curate since detective Geordie, assistant curate Leonard, and housekeeper Mrs. C. remain in place!  This season, season 6, is a much darker one than the previous ones.  

It is 1958 and while there is a murder in every episode, Leonard’s homosexuality and the U.K. laws in effect are a running story throughout the season.  It is a season with added depth and poignancy and one that made me appreciate society’s greater acceptance of differing sexual identities.  This is first rate television.  Highly recommended!

Maid (Netflix)

Margaret Qualley as Alex (indiewire.com)

Maid is a new offering on Netflix and one also dealing with a serious subject.  Based on a memoir by former maid, Stephanie Land, it’s a graphic and heart-rending picture of poverty and living hand-to-mouth while working.  Alex, the maid, abruptly leaves an abusive relationship with her toddler daughter Mattie.  Without a plan or any support, she is hard pressed to find a job or a place to live.  Some of the social services offices she encounters seem unhelpful or at best indifferent.  Reluctantly, she is offered a job as a maid cleaning houses.  Some clients are wealthy with gorgeous homes; others are realtors having seriously filthy properties scrubbed for sale.  

You can read about what it’s like to be poor in America, but this series clearly depicts how one small incident (a sick child, for example) has a domino effect on everything else from her job to her apartment.  It’s raw viewing, but Alex’s daydreams and her interactions with her kooky artist mother provide some relief.  Margaret Qualley with piercing dark eyes is amazing as Alex, while her real-life mother, Andie MacDowell, plays her mother here. 

Note: Header sunset photo ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).