Category: Food

Italy: Orvieto

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DUOMO DI ORVIETO

Yesterday we traveled from Rome to Perugia via Orvieto.  It was a pretty ride and a combination of winding country roads and some time on the highway.  We spent several hours in Orvieto, focusing mainly on the striking 14th century Duomo di Orvieto.  

This cathedral, unlike others of gray stone, has beautiful mosaics on the front façade. The side exterior walls and the inside have a striped appearance from alternating layers of white travertine and blackish basalt. 

Travertine & basalt on side walls
Mosaics on facade of Duomo di Orvieto

In style, this cathedral is Italian Gothic.  Dedicated to St. Mary, its history is related to transubstantiation, the transfer of the element of communion into the actual blood of Christ.   A traveling priest found that his Host was bleeding so much it stained the altar cloth.  This cloth is now stored in one of the cathedral’s chapels. 

 It is one of the most distinctive and loveliest large churches I’ve seen anywhere. It sits high on a volcanic or lava neck on a small piazza.

Column in duomo interior

We also stopped by the original church here. Orvieto was a poor town surrounded by farms and the church was small. It has been rebuilt to some extent, but the contrast between this building and the duomo funded by the Vatican is great.

Chiesa di Sant’Andrea with separate bell tower

PERUGIA

Cafe scene Perugia

From Orvieto, we went on to Perugia, capital of Umbria, where we will stay for several nights.  Here we enjoyed drinks at one café and then dinner at another, both in the center of the main thoroughfare. Compared to Rome, it was wonderfully calm and less touristy. At one end of the street were a crowd of people and some classic race cars; occasionally a low slung car rumbled by on one side.  

Locals and others strolled past and it was fun to people watch.  We even engaged with a young man masquerading as a cow.  We didn’t why, but he and his cohorts provided some entertainment. Later we learned it may have been part of a graduation exercise.

Young people on the street

FOOD

In Italy, almost all restaurants and cafes serve only Italian food.  Not other cuisines.  We’ve had several pizzas, ranging from good to so-so, and pasta dishes.  Most noteworthy for pasta for the Chief Penguin and me has been the tagliolini with truffles.  In one case, a mix of black and white truffles, and yesterday at lunch, pasta generously dressed with black truffles.  White ones are not fully in season yet.  

Our other treats were roast lamb or lamb cooked over a wood fire and gnocchi with Gorgonzola sauce for the C.P.  I indulged in vitello tonnato, paper thin slices of veal covered with a tuna sauce (consistency of thin mayonnaise) topped with capers, and served cold.  I first had this dish in Rome more than 40 years ago and for me, it’s a must at least once every trip.  

Note: Photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.) Header photo is of the piazza around the Duomo Di Orvieto.

Italy: Rome 1st Day

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ARRIVING

I always find the first day hard and long after flying the Atlantic. Our flight over was bumpy much of the way and true sleep eluded me.  The baggage claim was packed with people, but coming through passport control was somewhat simpler than in the past.  It was an hour from landing until we were in the car for the hour ride to our hotel.  Rome was sunny and bright, and the light on the yellow fall leaves breathtaking.  

Romans eat all day long

As expected, the room wasn’t ready, so we did the walk and wander routine around our neighborhood from the Spanish Steps to the Piazza del Popolo until it was an acceptable time for lunch.  Just before 12:30, early by Italian standards, but perfect for tourists.  The Chief Penguin tucked into a plate of fettuccine with porcini while I opted for the comfort of a risotto made with smoked provolone and Prosecco.  We ate at a leisurely pace, enjoying the outdoor scene around Alla Rampa in Piazza Mignanelli and timed our return to the hotel for when the room was ready.

AFTERNOON & EVENING

The Chief Penguin took a long walk to his favorite piazzas while I dozed a bit for an hour before we set out again.  Rome is packed with people, and I mean packed!  We were here four years ago at this same time and it wasn’t nearly as crowded.  But then, we know at least five couples who were to be in Italy at some point this month.  

Soft evening light

The evening light on the city’s amber, rose, tan, and cream buildings was soft and beautiful.  Dinner was at another restaurant café with outside seating, this one called Angie’s.  It is more casual than Alla Rampa with a less extensive menu.  We shared a mozzarella and prosciutto pizza, grilled vegetables (red peppers, zucchini and eggplant), and an apple tart along with some white wine. We retired early to be ready for another day in this city of narrow streets and intimate piazzas. 

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Tidy Tidbits: Watching and Eating

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VIEWING

Still (Apple TV+)

Michael J. Fox (The Hollywood Reporter)

This documentary about Michael J. Fox is ultimately a testament to one man’s steadfastness in the face of illness.  Michael J. Fox was a hot young TV star in the 1970’s who then branched out to movies.  He was funny, brash, and always in motion.  It seemed the world was his oyster, until.  As many know, he got a diagnosis of Parkinson’s Disease at 29, but kept it a secret from all but a few for a few years.  

The film traces his growing up years, his striving to achieve despite his short stature, his marriage to Tracy, and the births of his children.  Interspersed with his history are interview segments with him today at 61.  He speaks frankly about himself, his condition, and his career.  It’s a thoughtfully made film with occasional flashes of wit.  Highly recommended!

Walter Presents

I have recently become acquainted with several series offered by Walter Presents.  PBS Masterpiece is showing a few of them; I got curious about who and what Walter Presents is.  It is a curated collection of international TV programs from different countries and in a variety of languages with English subtitles.  Launched on the UK’s Channel 4 in 2016, it subsequently was offered in the U.S. and other countries.  The man behind the selections is Walter Iuzzolino.  Examples I’ve watched thus far include Astrid (French 2 seasons) and Murder in Sweden.

Murder in Sweden (PBS Masterpiece)

Sebastian & Maria (PBS)

Detective Maria Wern works alongside Sebastian, another detective, on a small crime squad on the island of Gotland.  Maria, a widow, is a complex person, hardworking, driven, and mother to two older boys.  She’s also reserved with her feelings.

The murder cases are difficult ones requiring teamwork, but occasionally Maria goes rogue in her zeal to solve them.  Her relationship with Sebastian is initially one of joking and bantering, but he would like more.  How their interactions evolve over the series adds depth and tenderness.

Each episode is in 2 parts and I just have access to one season. It’s in Swedish with subtitles.  Recommended!

SUPER SAVOR SARASOTA—DUVAL’S

Savor Sarasota is this city’s annual June dining out festival.  Participating restaurants offer special menus usually at a discounted price.  We dined at Duval’s downtown and had the best meal there ever and one that was superb in general.  With four courses at forty dollars, the menu offered two choices for each course.  

Interior of Duval’s (TripAdvisor.com)

The Chief Penguin and I started with the salmon spread on crostini for me, the excellent gazpacho for him; then a green salad for me and tuna poke for him.  We both selected the mahi piccata and the key lime pie as our entrée and dessert.  The mahi was a lovely presentation, a tasty piece of fish served over julienned carrots and other veggies.  And what’s not to like about key lime pie!  The Chief Penguin was delighted that it came topped with a layer of whipped cream and more on the side.  A glass of Chardonnay added to this wonderful meal!

Note: Header photo is the key lime pie at Duval’s from Facebook.

Tidy Tidbits: Mostly Local

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BOOKNOTES

Shrines of Gaiety by Kate Atkinson

Author Atkinson (The Guardian)

I thought Kate Atkinson’s Life after Life was a tour de force of a novel and I loved it.  I started Shrines of Gaiety about a month ago, read about a third, and then set it aside.  I wasn’t sure I’d finish it, but every time I picked it up again, I read a few chapters, getting to know the characters better and very much appreciating the writing.  In short, I finished the novel and am glad I persevered.

Overall, it’s a period tapestry, a portrait of a particular time in London in 1926 when nightclubs and glitzy parties were the rage.  Nellie Coker, owner of a string of clubs and mother of six adult children, rules strongly over her fiefdom.  The reader is introduced to all the children and to Detective Chief Inspector Frobisher and one time librarian, now aspiring detective, Gwendolen Kelling. 

Gwendolen comes to London to try and locate Freda Murgatroyd, a sister’s friend who has disappeared. Frobisher is involved in investigating the case of several missing girls who may be connected to dancers at these clubs.  Beneath the gaiety and glitz of the clubs (shrines to a good time), is a seamier crime-laden slice of London life. 

While the reader gets to know Niven, Nellie’s oldest son, I found the other characters more sketchily drawn.  There’s a large cast of notables and undesirables and layers of society both royal and aspiring interact.  Nellie is based on the real Kate Meyrick, an owner, and queen of Soho London clubs. I didn’t love this novel, but I was engaged enough to read it through.

LOCAL THEATER & DINING

The Incident at Our Lady of Perpetual Help at Asolo Repertory Theatre

Sisters Becky and Linda (Asolo)

As always, the sets and the overall staging of The Incident at Our Lady of Perpetual Help were excellent.  The problem as the Chief Penguin and I saw it, was with the material, the play itself.  Set in 1973, it is a memory play built around a series of key moments in one week.  The narrator, older daughter Linda O’Shea, is the focal character in this family of mother, father, and younger sister, along with live-in aunt Terri and grandmother.  Practicing Irish Catholics, the O’Sheas’ morality and their reputation are monitored by the local priest. Father Lovett takes a very personal interest in his flock.  The incident of the title arises after Linda gives her sister Becky a talk about the facts of life.  

Parts of the play are very funny, but I found the first act overdone and enjoyed the second act more.  The coda summing up everyone’s future life and death was of interest, but not relevant to the heart of the play.  I’d give the cast credit for their performance, but don’t think this play was Asolo’s finest dramatic choice.

The Ringling Grillroom

We returned to The Ringling Grillroom for another pre-theater dinner.  We’ve had several lunches here and one dinner.  The food is consistently very good and much superior to the fare when it was known as Muse.  The hummus starter was creamy and fresh, and my blackened salmon was excellent. The fish had just the right amount of blackening and spices, and the rice with red pepper bits, okra pods, and corn was different and tasty.  The Chief Penguin enjoyed shrimps and scallops on a bed of polenta with a side dish of blistered cherry tomatoes in a shallot sauce.  Highly recommended!

TOP NOTCH CHEESE SHOP IN OUR BACKYARD!

Artisan Cheese Company (artisancheesecompany.com)

In her latest e-mail, Louise Converse, owner of Artisan Cheese Company in Sarasota, reported that Wine Enthusiast has named them one of the top ten iconic cheese shops in the country. That’s in all of America. Opened in 2012, the store moved to its larger space in the Rosemary District in 2018.  Here’s what Enthusiast wrote:

Its expansive selection includes such all-American standard-bearers as Jasper Hill and Point Reyes, as well as hard-to-source European producers like Switzerland’s Gourmino and England’s Neal’s Yard. The airy, industrial digs also feature beer, natural wine, salumi and more, and the café serves grilled cheese, crostini and other small plates.

As my regular readers know, the Chief Penguin and I are great fans of and regular patrons of Artisan Cheese! With their red walls, they are unmissable! Do stop in.