Florida Frolic: Lakes & Bells


WINTER EXCURSION

We enjoyed our brief trip to Winter Park last February so much that we decided to repeat the trip this week. Winter Park began as a refuge for the moneyed set, a winter playground as it were, and it’s clear that it’s still a wealthy place with a cultural life built around Rollins College.  Amtrak trains stop at the station in the center of town and there’s a commuter train as well.  

Arriving by car, we returned to the lovely Alfond Inn.  It’s owned by the college and the proceeds go to support student scholarships.  The hotel’s public spaces are particularly lovely and are enlivened by paintings from the college’s contemporary art collection.  It was fun to see which ones were new and which we remembered from the last visit.  

We lunched outside at the Parkview on Park Avenue, the main street, and then walked the few blocks to Lake Osceola for the 1:00 pm boat tour.  Located north of Orlando, Winter Park is charm itself, and this peaceful lake is one in a string of six interconnected lakes. 

 The captain and guide on our open pontoon boat navigated around the lake and through several narrow canals giving us local history and pointing out the Rollins president’s house and other noteworthy homes fronting on the water almost all with private docks.  Inching through the canals, we crept under low bridges and alongside residents’ boathouses.  Large trees and lush vegetation, Spanish moss and giant ferns edged the shore.  There was no wind and our one hour cruise most pleasant.

CARILLON PAR EXCELLENCE

On the trip home, we made a slight detour to Lake Wales in Polk County to visit Bok Tower Gardens.  This somewhat hidden attraction is a real gem and well worth a visit.  The gardens, designed by Frederick Olmsted of Central Park fame, feature a bog, wetlands, wildflowers and endangered plants.  We noted camellias and other blooms on our walk. 

But the centerpiece of this place, and the highlight for us, was the Singing Tower looming 205 feet into the air and on the highest land in all of Florida.  Initiated by Edward Bok of Curtis Publishing, and dedicated by President Coolidge in 1929, the tower is made of gorgeous pink Georgia marble and coquina stone and houses one of the world’s largest carillons.  Its 60 bells are played daily in half-hour concerts at 1:00 and 3:00 pm.  

Before the first concert, we enjoyed salads at the Blue Palmetto Cafe and chanced to see the resident carillonneur, Geert D’hollander, at the next table.  The Chief Penguin engaged him in conversation and learned that, Belgian by birth, he came here from UC Berkeley in 2012, found himself a wife, and just last week became a U.S. citizen.  

He said that playing here was a treat—the isolated location means that there is no ambient noise from sirens or traffic and no students to complain if he plays too long!  The program brochure noted that he has won first prize in more than 30 international competitions for carillon or composition.  The afternoon concert was most enjoyable and played by a visiting fellow from the University of Rochester.

There is a modest admission charge to the gardens of $15 for adults, and the visitor center offers an introductory video along with an art exhibit and a gift shop.  

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).

Down Under: Enjoying Oamaru

OUT AND ABOUT IN OAMARU

We spent Saturday in a relaxed fashion catching up on blog and photo editing before heading into town. Our first stop in was the lovely and quite old (1876) Oamaru Public Gardens. Lots of mature trees, a stream, and little paths with stone steps and along stone walls leading to quiet nooks and crannies. Rhododendrons were in full bloom and several cherry trees were raining petals over the red arched bridge. Apparently, Oamaru at one point had the largest Chinese population in New Zealand, not so much any more.

Part of the garden called Wonderland is dedicated to children and there’s a playful sculpture of a boy and girl clambering on a rock. We easily spend an hour wandering, looking and savoring its peaceful greenness.  

Later we returned to the Victorian Precinct which had just gotten a cursory look the day before. The architecture here and along the main street is mostly all built of the native limestone called whitestone. Also now the name of the local cheese company. This is late 19th and early 20th century architecture at its most classical with straight lines, columns and simple decorative elements.

The shops in the historic district run the gamut from the quirky to the less quirky. There are a couple of mostly used bookstores, a number of cafes (pastries, cookies and pies are big here), coffee shops (you are never far from the next cup of java), and a host of jewelry, soap, art and craft and candy shops. Most have some connection to the Victorian theme.  

We had lunch in the oldest restaurant in the town and felt a part of the local culture as no one else looked to be a tourist.  The Star & Garter has been the venue for many a wedding reception and the photos on the wall of brides and grooms go back more than 60 years. Lunch fare was a chicken enchilada (creamy with mushrooms, Oamaru style) and for me, panfried salmon with a green salad. Shortly after we ordered, I received the weekly Facetime call from our granddaughters. Quite amazing to be on the other side of the globe and talk as if they were only a few doors away!

We also popped into the Forrester Gallery briefly (see fossil of the animal moa above, a bird that existed in New Zealand until about 1500) and checked out the front of the public library (only open until 12:30 on Saturday). In fact, many stores close at 1:00 or 2:00 pm on Saturday, making me wonder what they do the rest of the weekend.

At dinner, we had the company of other guests, a young couple from Wellington on a weekend break (Monday is Labour Day). Sandra is from Liechtenstein and John from Fiji and we had fun learning more about their respective countries (actually L. is a principality with only 38,000 people and you can drive from one side to the other in half an hour!) and what it might be like to island hop in Fiji.  

The meal was another scrumptious affair : salmon salad with smoked eggplant puree and cherry tomatoes and other mini veggies; fried duck egg on top of little potatoes with black truffle vinaigrette; venison striploin with wheatberry pilaf, and asparagus on butternut puree, and lastly, a frozen chestnut parfait and white chocolate mousee with cocoa nibs and dark chocolate soil. I was leery about the venison, but it was farm-raised and tender and delicious! Most of the veggies were grown here at Pen-y-bryn Lodge. Chef James both cooks and plays host before dinner and always looks relaxed and never harried.

Note:  All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).

 

Down Under: Around Hawke’s Bay

TOURING THE HAWKE’S BAY REGION

The sun came out, finally, and we were happy. This was the day for our photography tour with a professional photographer. At 8:00 am, Richard Brimer, the photographer, and Edward from Long Island Guides picked us up. We were expecting only Richard, but Edward did the driving and was more knowledgable about some of the local history even though Richard has lived here all his life. It was an absolutely delightful day!

We first went to Craggy Range Winery, not for the wine, but for the view and their cellar. There is a pond on the vineyard property and a lovely view of Te Mata Peak so we spent a good hour there taking shots of the mist on the peak, reflections of buildings, trees, and vines in the pond, and then going inside to see the cellar. This winery’s barrels have a dull red band and are lined up precisely on their sides. Richard manned the lighting of this space for us and then at one point waved around a heavy duty LED flashlight to create additional scattered light while we took photos. He had the C.P. using his tripod and taking shots with long shutter times. Quite an experience.

From there, we drove to Ocean Beach, a completely deserted somewhat wild beach, for photos of the water on the sand and the distant views. We also tramped into a field (private property) to get a look at a lonely camping caravan sitting desolate beyond the grass. We were a ways from Napier proper and so got a look at several small burgs and some lovely views as we went up and down the local hills. We stopped off at Bluff Hill Domain above a working port and saw logs being loaded onto ships bound for China as well as sheep going on another vessel. Back in Napier, we took advantage of the sunshine for some more photos of Marine Parade and a short walk before having lunch at Mister D’s.

  

Richard seems to know everyone and the owner of the restaurant, a woman, welcomed us and saw us to a table while reciting some of the day’s specials. Three of us ordered the fish in a bag which was delicious while Edward had the market fish which included potatoes and some pumpkin.

Our last stop of the day was The Urban Winery owned by winemaker Tony Bish. Their tasting room and cellar are in an original Art Deco building, National Tobacco Company, with some lovely pink details. Karen Bish greeted us and we first went into their cellar for photos of their oak barrels and this marvelously huge oak egg holding a great quantity of wine. We took picture after picture and then retired to the tasting area for samples of three Chardonnays and one Syrah. Their Chardonnays were the best I’ve had so far here! Edward and Richard returned us to our hotel just before 3:00, leaving us with hugs all around.

  

For dinner we returned to Three Doors Up where we had dined two nights ago. The same waitress greeted us and we settled into the same table. This time we tried the cheesy garlic bread and mixed olives followed by calamari for the Chief Penguin and the crumbed chicken pieces with basil pesto for me. He had a green salad and their fries and I the carrots and asparagus, vegetable of the day. When I first read the menu, I thought it said “crumbled” chicken, but it had panko bread crumbs on it and had been lightly fried. They treat scallops similarly—“crumbed.”  Another very satisfying meal.

All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).

 

 

Down Under: Art Deco Central

ART DECO IN NAPIER

An earthquake and fires destroyed the town of Napier in 1931. The central business district was completely leveled and many people were without homes. The impetus to rebuild was strong and within about two years, new buildings were up and businesses active again. It was a monumental effort and the city took advantage of the prevailing architecture of the time and decorated their new buildings in the Art Deco style. Simple block shapes for the most part, the windows and roof lines of the buildings have arrows and scallops or arches adorning them and are frequently painted in Necco wafer colors. Here and there is the occasional Spanish (rounded ceramic roof tiles) or Maori element making for variety and less adherence to purity.

 

The rain finally stopped (for the most part) on Monday afternoon and we had a good long stroll around the town looking at the architecture and walking the arched Marine Parade. But first we stopped in the Art Deco Center where a very determined woman was determined that we wouldn’t depart without having done a tour or a short film or both! Pleasant and informative, she was definitely on a mission.

Some years ago, but not initially, Napier realized that its architecture was a gem and made it the ideal way to bring tourists to town. Each February, around the anniversary of the earthquake, they hold an Art Deco Festival and participants dress in period clothing, ride in vintage cars, and attend dinners, take guided walks and do all sorts of fun things. Our Auckland airport driver had told us she attended every other year. To answer the unasked question, we stayed at the center and watched the earthquake film (lots of archival footage), which was preceded by a 10-minute introduction by that purposeful woman.

  

We stayed downtown for dinner at the Emporium, the restaurant in the Masonic Hotel, one of the two classical hotels. The other being the County Hotel. Having eaten several multi-course meals in Waiheke, we opted for a selection of nibbles and smaller plates. Prawn toasts and maple almonds with smoked paprika followed by beef rendang (a dry beef curry with fried curry leaves and served with a few cute little square pillow of rice), and then some Whitestone blue cheese which was accompanied by bread sticks, wafer crackers, a few walnuts, and a fruit paste. Not exactly the most balanced meal, but what we felt like eating. For lunch (and breakfast), we dined in our hotel restaurant, Milk and Honey, and were very pleased with the variety. Lunch of chicken salad was especially good. It wasn’t like American chicken salad, but had some chunks of roasted thigh meat topped with greens, celeriac, and some crunchy little nuts in a tasty dressing.

All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).  Header photo is the colonnade beyond the Marine Parade in Napier.