JEREZ
Jerez is a city of about 200,000 people not quite an hour away from Seville. It’s in the province of Cadiz and is the capital of the sherry world. For Americans, the city name is pronounced nothing like it’s spelled, and my rendering of it is, “Hreth.” Also the Spaniards aspirate the ‘j” in a way I have never mastered. Many sherry producers have their headquarters in the middle of Jerez including Tio Pepe, one of the best known in the U. S. There is even a statue of Tio Pepe which translates to “Uncle Joe.’
We spent about two hours with Carmen, a local guide and a native of Jerez. She was warm and engaging and, we learned abut the history and architecture of the town along with some anecdotes and legends which might or might not be fact.
There were few other tourists around, and we felt like we were seeing the real world, the locals out shopping and going about their business.
We also visited the big local market everything from clothing and produce in outside stalls. Inside, a whole hall devoted to fish and seafood next to a much smaller one for meat and poultry. I always like seeing the markets in other countries, and this one was a treat. I was surprised to see so many female fishmongers.
SHERRY BODEGA
After a lunch of shared small dishes (potatoes, tuna two ways, Iberian ham, anchovies on ratatouille toast, and a bit of fino sherry), we visited Lustau, a noted and historic sherry producer.
Over the years, the Chief Penguin and I have drunk a lot of Lustau amontillado, so visiting their cellar was a pleasure. The cellar buildings are old, 1840’s and 1860’s, and cathedral-like with arches and very high ceilings.
Our young tour guide was excellent as she recapped the history of the company. Then in various galleries, midst the barrels in various stages of aging—it takes at least 4 years to make many sherries—she introduced us to 4 different wines ranging in taste from astringently dry to sweet: amontillado, fino, and olorosa among them. She ended our tour with a taste of a lovely vermouth, a more recent addition to their line-up. Hands down, this was the most elegant wine cellar we’ve ever visited!
TOUR GUIDES
We have had a series of excellent guides in Spain, and our last two were equally stellar. They were informative and personable, and we enjoyed our time with them and at lunch this day.
Note: All photos by JWFarrington and friends.
