FROM TOLOSA TO THE COUNTRY
After enjoying the architecture and the farmers’ market in Tolosa, we went up into the mountains, ending up eventually at a family farm of about 100 acres. The husband and wife and their three children are the 13th generation to manage and maintain this farm. They have 400 pigs, more than 10 horses, a few donkeys, and some beef cattle. The pigs are the main enterprise, and most of them end up as hams and salami. The pigs freely eat the acorns and chestnuts on the land and their diet gets supplemented with corn and other items.
PIG HUT
Upon arrival on the property, we made a brief stop to check out a pig house. We walked up a small slope littered with fluffy-looking chestnut remains to a small 17th century wooden building. Inside are six segregated sties where expectant pigs and new pig mothers and their piglets can rest for a while. We went in and peered at two sets of sleeping pigs and piglets. A light shone in one sty, providing some warmth I guess.
Looking up, the ceiling was covered with thick spider web after thick whitish spider web.
The spiders are allowed and encouraged to keep down the other insects. These Basque pigs, the most desirable ones, are mostly gray with some large pink areas on their sides.
The mothers and babies were all much bigger than I expected.
LOVELY LUNCH
From the pig hut, we then drove up to the main house area and met P and M and their eldest daughter. The views are lovely, and they have a thriving vegetable garden.
We learned that P’s father died unexpectedly when he was only 19 and so, he inherited the property at that point. His wife, Maite, is from Tolosa. Previously, she was a hairdresser and then a restaurant owner. After their children, she stayed home and began to offer home cooked lunches using the products of their farm.
The first course was a plate of prosciutto-like ham, slices of salami and chorizo, and tiny slices of sirloin ham, all from their pigs. I should mention that the dining room where we sat had hams aging and hanging from the ceiling, just not right above our table. Second course was mini ham croquettes, followed by fresh cepes or porcini with scrambled eggs, and then, a lovely piece of nicely seasoned beef cooked over a wood fire with roasted red pepper slices on the side.
Finally we sampled a delicate flan for dessert from P’s aunt’s recipe. We enjoyed some local cider (tart not sweet) and water with the meal. Maite does all the cooking and preparation, and it was a tasty and most memorable meal! And at that point, we were probably all ready for naps.
Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)
