Return to Manhattan & a Mystery

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SECOND SPRING

In May, we typically spend the month in Manhattan.  It’s a round robin of visits to great art museums, dining at favorite restaurants, sampling new eateries, people watching in the parks, discovering new titles from beloved bookstores, and spending lots of time with our delightful granddaughters—without being a drag on their busy schedules.  

We have always enjoyed seeing tulips in bloom in Central Park, in the Jefferson Market Garden, and along Park Avenue.  This year, we reveled in early spring in North Carolina—delicate redbud trees, daffodils, yellow snapdragons, and then the azaleas bursting out.  We arrived here mid-week past the peak of the tulips, but there are still enough hanging on to attract our attention:  robustly red ones, rosy pink blooms, and in Central Park, dark purple tulips verging on black against a backdrop of white azalea petals. 

We’ve been here about three days and haven’t yet done much except walk, dine, and enjoy our granddaughters.  Our new life in North Carolina is filled with so much activity that I believe we are in recovery mode, a winddown from our recent move and all the energy that required.  Soon we will get back to touring the exhibits at the MoMA, the Met, and the Whitney. In the meantime, there are even “flowers” on 5th Avenue–thank you, Van Cleef & Arpels!

FUN HISTORICAL MYSTERY

The Lace Widow by Mollie Ann Cox

Eliza Hamilton, wife and then widow of Alexander Hamilton, was a formidable woman.  Strong, smart, resilient, and determined to make a difference in the world, she outlived Alexander by 50 years.  

In The Lace Widow, author Cox turns Eliza, or Mrs. General Hamilton as she is politely addressed, into a detective.  It is a fact that Aaron Burr killed Alexander Hamilton in a duel.  And it is true that some of Hamilton’s political enemies falsely accused him of misusing U.S. Treasury funds.  After Hamilton’s untimely and unseemly death, Eliza desperately seeks to see Burr punished, but he has disappeared.  She is also motivated to continue to protect Hamilton’s reputation and that of herself and her children.   

When several of Hamilton’s close friends also die in suspicious circumstances, and her oldest son is fingered as a suspect, she begins her search for the culprits.  In the process, secret societies and strange alliances are uncovered midst several false leads.  

While the events here depicted after Hamilton’s death, including the several murders, are fiction, Cox crafts a good story and highlights the role of lace in a woman’s wardrobe and the skill and nimble hands required to make it.  A fast read that believably combines fact and fiction!

I foresee a future Eliza Hamilton mystery. In the meantime, for an absorbing take on Eliza’s multi-faceted life, read My Dear Hamilton:  A Novel of Eliza Schuyler Hamilton by Stephanie Dray and Laura Kamoie.  

NORTH CAROLINA DINING

This entry is for my new cadre of local readers.

Peck & Plume (The Mayton)

The Mayton, Cary’s boutique inn a few doors from the downtown park, houses not only attractive rooms for overnight guests, but a welcoming and tasty restaurant.  Peck & Plume is open for all three meals, and besides its inside dining room, boasts a lovely terrace.  With fans and heaters, the terrace is comfortable most any time of year. 

The Chief Penguin and I enjoyed lunch there recently.  He had the sashimi tuna preparation along with a small Caesar salad.  I took advantage of the soup sip (a demitasse cup of the daily soup for $2) and tucked into a Caesar salad with salmon.  The salad greens were fresh and crisp, and the salmon was perfectly done.  

We also sampled the specialty cocktails.  I liked the sound of the lavender mule with ginger and lemon but found it overly perfumed.  Service here can be a bit slow, but if you have the time, the food is worth the more leisurely pace!

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Carolina Comments: Views of War & More

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This week I share a novel that deals with life in East Berlin before the Wall comes down and a chilling film about a Nazi Commandant who lives with his family just outside the camp at Auschwitz. For my local friends, thoughts on another Indian restaurant.

CHALLENGING NOVEL

Kairos by Jenny Erpenbeck

In 2015, the Chief Penguin and I spent a week in Berlin.  We stayed in a hotel in what had been East Berlin. The entire visit was an amazing experience and a dive into WWII and Cold War history.  Not that long ago, I read The Chancellor, a nonfiction work about Angela Merkel’s life and career by Kati Marton.  Merkel grew up in East Germany and this book provided some further insights about the politics of the 1960’s and 70’s.  I mention all this as background for approaching German author Jenny Erpenbeck’s latest novel, Kairos.  

Opening in the late 1980’s in East Berlin, Kairos is both a turbulent love story and a political one about the denouement of East Germany and the fall of the Berlin Wall.  A chance encounter on a bus between 19-year-old Katharina and mid-50’s writer and radio broadcaster Hans leads to long-running affair.  Katharina is still a student, Hans is married to Ingrid, and their meetings are clandestine and eventually less frequent.  It’s an affair marked by bitterness, tension, infidelity, and tenderness too. Simultaneously, life in East Berlin is changing as the governmental infrastructure fractures and cracks before breaking.   

“Berlin will be wall-free”, August 1988 (theatlantic.com)

The lovers’ story is told through reflection, diaries, and Katharina’s listening to cassettes about them that Hans has recorded and given to her.  Woven into their feelings and actions are references to literary figures (Bertolt Brecht, e.g.), mundane details about the topography of the city, and descriptions of political events.  Throughout their affair, Katharina matures while still fantasizing about having a child with Hans someday.  Meanwhile, he remains married to Ingrid and simultaneously castigates Katharina and makes her suffer for her infidelity.  

I found Erpenbeck’s writing dense, and for me, reading this novel was very slow going.  It’s been so highly praised and nominated for at least one award, that I was determined to finish it.  Parts of it were wonderfully written, but I wished I had a richer background for some of the finer political points.   

Kairos, the title, is a Greek word for “the right time” or “a time when the conditions are right for the accomplishment of a crucial action.”  Go, Went, Gone, Erpenbeck’s earlier novel, was also translated from the German.  (~JWFarrington)

UNCOMFORTABLE VIEWING

Zone of Interest  (Amazon Prime)

Fun in the yard outside Auschwitz (latimes.com)

Nominated for five Academy Awards, the German film Zone of Interest won Best International Feature.  It is a quiet horror film and an uncomfortable one to watch.  The awfulness of what is happening the other side of the garden wall is known and is heard and seen with random gunshots, a constant rumble, and occasional flames.  And yet, Auschwitz Commandant Rudolf Hoss and his large family have an idyllic life just the outside the Auschwitz camp.  Wife Hedwig has plenty of household help, and she takes great pleasure in tending the lush flower and vegetable garden she created.  Their children romp and play in the sunshine and the pool, pretty much ignoring what’s happening close by. 

All together, this family is building the perfect life in the Polish countryside while Hoss is implementing the Fuhrer’s heinous goals.  Watching it is a chilling experience, but it’s so very well done, it’s worth the investment of time.  

ADVENTUROUS EATING #4

Cilantro Indian Café

Cilantro interior (yelp.com)

Continuing our sampling of Indian fare in Cary, we joined a group for lunch at Cilantro, a longtime local favorite.  While Cilantro started more than ten years ago with sandwiches and then chicken tikka sold behind a gas station, today it boasts a two-level contemporary space with flowing white drapery.  

The vibe is casual, and you order your meal at the counter and then it’s delivered to your table.  Spice of some type is the name of the game in almost everything.  The Chief Penguin and I sampled the vegetable samosa, tasty with a bite.  He enjoyed the very spicy chicken tandoori while I tucked into the Bihari coconut chicken curry.  Even my “medium” spicy curry was quite hot.  Rice and naan and some form of chickpeas, usually Moroccan hummus, are the accompaniments.  Many dishes are also made with lamb, and for those who want less spice, the pan seared fish looked equally tempting.  Staff were welcoming and everything was delicious!  

Note: Header photo of dawn in Cary ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Carolina Capers: On Plate & Screen

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CHEESE, ANYONE?

Cary has the distinction of hosting the only pimento cheese festival in the United States.  Last Saturday was the 6th Annual Pimento Cheese Festival in the downtown park.  I don’t know where previous years were held, but this park was the perfect venue.  With live music, food trucks ringing surrounding streets, activities for kids, and, most importantly, an array of tables and tents where one could sample and then purchase tubs of pimento cheese, it was a happening place.

I like pimento cheese and some of the best I’d ever had previously was Cheese Louise’s version from Artisan Cheese in Sarasota, FL.  Last week, I sampled five or so of the ten available, making the rounds and enjoying the mini cup of cheese with a tiny spoon or a cracker.  Many versions included jalapenos in some form, often pickled.  After all my sampling, I ended up buying a small container of Wendy’s Wicked which was the first one I tasted.  The day was lovely, the park was nicely crowded, and it was a fun outing!

TV VIEWING

HISTORIC FIGURES:  A DIPLOMAT & A SEER

Franklin (Apple TV+)

Pensive Franklin (indiewire.com)

Franklin is an 8-part series about Benjamin Franklin’s time in France struggling to convince the French to support America in its war against the British.  It’s based on a book by Stacy Schiff about untrained Franklin’s role as a diplomat.  (Scholar Schiff is also the author of a biography of Cleopatra which received much acclaim and which I found fascinating.)

Here, Michael Douglas plays a very convincing 70-year-old Franklin—clever, sly, and still a printer at heart.  Temple, Franklin’s teenage grandson, accompanies him.  Initially awkward and inept, Temple settles in and becomes a keen observer on Franklin’s behalf.  But these two also have their tussles, reflecting their different generational outlooks and Temple’s lack of worldly experience.  

There are many characters, and it is sometimes hard to quickly know which French official or nobleman it is, and which side of the conflict he is on.  Nonetheless, with close attention, the series offers an inside look at the strategies and machinations required to bring the French on board.  We have watched through Episode 4. 

Einstein and the Bomb (Netflix)

(economictimes.indiatimes.com)

This hour-plus docudrama, Einstein and the Bomb, lays out key points in Einstein’s personal life and his theory of relativity.  It brings together the events that led him to exit Nazi Germany for England, then the U.S., and how the threat posed by Hitler coupled with his scientific knowledge impacted his thinking and his activism.  Starting in Princeton in 1955, Einstein reflects on his life, the aftermath of WWII, and reveals his doubts and sorrow over the use of the atomic bomb.

The film alternates between theatrical scenes and archival film, but all the words attributed to Einstein are his.  It’s a powerful piece of cinema.  One small annoyance is the flashes of numbers that precede the black and white historical film clips.  

This film made me wonder whether leaders in this country are fully cognizant of the damage that would be wrought by a second term for Trump.  Are our seers being heard?  Recommended!

ADVENTUROUS EATING #3

LAOTIAN CUISINE:  SAAP

Thanks to our son and daughter-in-law’s generosity, we had an extra incentive to try this hot new restaurant located just behind the Cary Downtown Park.  SAAP, which means “yummy” in Laotian, is the latest venue for Laos native and now longtime North Carolina resident, Lon Buonsanga.  Previously executive chef at a Laotian restaurant in Raleigh, he now owns his own place. 

Located in a high-ceilinged open space with a bar on one side, SAAP feels contemporary and bright.  It has received much laudatory press, and even early on a Friday night, the place was already busy.  

Crispy coconut rice (GCF)

The Chief Penguin and I ordered from the small plates menu section and loved everything we ordered! Between us, we shared excellent crispy spring rolls, tasty chicken satay skewers, and a new dish for us, crispy coconut rice with bits of pork to wrap in large lettuce leaves.  We will return to try the curries and steamed fish. SAAP is open for lunch and dinner.

Carolina Capers: Eclipse et al

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WATCHING THE ECLIPSE

Sky watchers

The highlight of this past week was certainly the eclipse on Monday afternoon.  We were not in an area for a total eclipse but were expected to get 80-84% coverage.  It was a lovely sunny day with lots of blue sky.  The Chief Penguin and I walked to the downtown park, partly for better viewing, but mostly to be with other people.  We arrived just before 2:00 pm and quickly snapped up two of the electric green Adirondack chairs near the fountain.  

Several options for viewing

Not much happened for quite a while; then wearing our approved cardboard eclipse glasses, we gazed up and saw the sun being nibbled at by the black moon.  As time went on, more kids and families and couples gathered and found places to sit.  The blackness kept encroaching until around 3:10, we had just a fingernail sliver of golden sun left.  Quite something to see. 

Snoozing or studying the sky?

It never got dark here, but the sun did get dim and the air cooled a bit.  The weather was so salubrious, we stayed on awhile longer, checking every little bit to see the process slowly reverse as more of the sun emerged again.  An amazing experience!  The next one isn’t for another 20 years—odds are we might not see it!

INTERLUDE—MUSIC & FILM

Cary Town Band

One of the perks of living where we do is a wide assortment of free musical events and movies.  This week it was a concert by the Cary Town Band.  In existence since 1987, the band is made up of all woodwind instruments and boasts 50 plus players, all volunteers.  It’s led by a former member who brings enthusiasm, knowledge, and a bit of fun (think the occasional theme costume) to her conducting.  

This program featured music from composers like Sousa and Verdi to Elton John and John Williams all under the umbrella of people’s jobs.  Pieces included selections from the Lion King, Superman, Phantom of the Opera, and Die Meistersinger among others.  Cary Town Band presents four or five concerts a year including one for the Fourth of July.  This was a fun evening!  

Beyond Silence

The previous week we enjoyed a showing of the German film, Beyond Silence, released in 1996.  It centers on Lara, a young girl interested in music and particularly the clarinet.  She hears, but both her parents are deaf.  They three communicate by signing, and Lara’s parents rely on her for translating in interviews with her schoolteachers or when watching TV.  She aspires to study the clarinet in Berlin, and there is tension and then a rift with her parents.  It’s a sensitive portrait of coming of age and learning to navigate boundaries and limits. 

If the premise of this film sounds familiar to you, it may be that you’ve seen or heard of the 2021 American film, CODA (Children of Deaf Adults), which has some similarities, but the girl in it has a talent for singing.  Interestingly, CODA is actually considered to be a remake of the French-Belgian film from 2014, La Famille Belier, where the girl is also a gifted singer.  For those who are intrigued, it’s possible to buy or rent any of these films from Amazon or other sources. 

VIEWING NOTES

Nolly (PBS Masterpiece)

I watched one episode of Nolly, a series about an early British TV sitcom star who was suddenly let go from her show.  Much as I like and admire Helena Bonham Carter as an actress, I didn’t really get engaged with this production.  Nolly wasn’t very likable, too much of a prima donna, and the other characters seemed stale and dated to me.  Maybe the humor is too British or maybe it gets better in future episodes, but I had enough.  

Call the Midwife (Season 13, PBS)

Trixie, Nurse Crane, & Maureen (townandcountrymag.com)

Perhaps you think you’ve witnessed enough breech births and had too much sweetness and light to continue with this series.  The Chief Penguin occasionally has felt this way—but he continues to watch Call the Midwife with me.  So far, after three episodes, I think that Season 13 is a winner.  

Midwife often deals with serious medical issues of the 1960’s; in previous seasons it included Thalidomide babies and lung-infecting black mold.  This season when stalwart Fred becomes seriously ill, everyone is reminded of the importance of an up-to-date tetanus vaccine.  

After all these years, I’m fond of many of these characters from Sister Julienne to Trixie and Nurse Crane, and even Miss Higgins, who has loosened up somewhat.  They make for a winning cast of characters and continue to delight viewers like me!  Recommended!

Note: Unattributed photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)