Manhattan: Cooking & Dining Around

MOMENTOUS MOMENT

This has been a dramatic week with the leak of the Supreme Court’s draft opinion upending Roe v. Wade.  For many of us who were of age in 1973, contemplating a return to when abortion is no longer a legal right/option is positively medieval. It feels so very wrong.  Pro-choice protests erupted in cities near and far.  This one we noted in Union Square.

Union Square protesters

FUN WITH KIDS IN THE KITCHEN

Our granddaughters have both developed an interest in cooking and baking.  After school one afternoon, the 6-year-old and I, at her request, made mini-muffin pancake bites from the latest issue of Highlights High Five.  F knew where all the necessary ingredients were along with the essential mixing bowl, measuring cups, and muffin tin.  She scurried around to assemble them and kept a close eye on the oven gauge as it proceeded to preheat to 350.  

As we began the mixing process, she reported every few minutes, “It’s at 350 Fahrenheit, Grandma,” and then, “It’s still at 350 Fahrenheit,” always precisely including the word Fahrenheit.  The mini muffins use pancake mix as the base with the addition of the requisite milk and eggs and then some cut up blueberries and strawberries.  Once baked, they were served with maple syrup for dipping.  A sweet success!

Mini-muffin bites

Her older sister, E is becoming an accomplished cook.  Her current bible is Melissa Clark’s Kid in the Kitchen, and she has already tried several recipes.  The other evening, she boiled the pasta and made a sauce of cherry tomatoes, olive oil, and slivers of garlic.  After adding the sauce to the pasta, it was topped with dollops of ricotta cheese along with fresh basil and mint.  Delectable and a pretty dish besides!  The Chief Penguin and I were eager tasters for both creations!

Fusilli with cherry tomato sauce & fresh basil and mint

DINING AROUND—MOSTLY FISH

Seamore’s

Seamore’s on the Upper East Side is the newest location of a local restaurant chain.  It’s an airy, two-level space with white walls and light wood tables.  A blackboard on one wall outlines the shape and characteristics of some of the fish they serve.  Once we were seated at a fine table (we rejected the hostess’ initial attempt to seat us in the back next to the restrooms), we were pleased with our friendly waitress and the very good service.  

Since we’d had a large lunch, we stuck to the smaller items on the menu.  Between us ordered the fried cauliflower appetizer, clam chowder, and the shrimp tacos on corn tortillas. A place to return to with an appetite!

Avra Madison Estiatorio

Friends introduced us to this upscale Greek seafood and fish restaurant.  It has one of the most beautiful outside dining areas.  Inside is an expansive two-level space with lots of activity and noise on the main bar level.  Fortunately, we were seated downstairs where the tables were set apart, and we could easily converse.  

Whole fish is their specialty, and the prices reflect that.  We shared a bunch of appetizers: zucchini chips, spreads, and hummus, and we all ordered the fish of the day which was fillets of dorade accompanied by roasted Brussels sprouts.  Everything was delicious.  This is a great place for special occasions and expense account dining!

Disappointing Reprise

Tue Thai Food used to be a favorite West Village spot for an inexpensive lunch.  We hadn’t been back since pre-Covid and were desirous of the same good food.  This time the curries were thin and watery and somewhat bland, while the whole ambience was shabbier than we remembered.  We wonder if they have a new chef or if a lack of business has made them lax.  

Time, Crime & Tomatoes: Screen & Kitchen

ON SCREEN

Time and Mortality

On Golden Pond  (Amazon Prime $)

Jennifer Finney Boylan is an occasional opinion writer for the New York Times and an English professor at Bard.  Years ago, I read her groundbreaking memoir, She’s Not There:  A Life in Two Genders, about her transition from male to female.  I find her columns thoughtful and insightful.  

In her most recent piece, she reflected on age and time.  Boylan is now 63 and not as physically flexible as she would like.  Watching the film, On Golden Pond, with Fonda and Hepburn as Norman and Ethel, a retired couple of 80 and almost 70, prompted thoughts on life and what comes after.  Here’s a quote from this July 9 column, Katherine Hepburn, Henry Fonda, and Me.

It is not just the thought of my now-grown children that causes me to come unstuck in time. My wife and I first came to Maine in our 20s; now, as Ethel says in the film, we are a couple of old poops.

We have changed so much and have been blessed — and battered — by time. But we are still in love. I am not ready to leave this pond or Maine or her. Still, I know that, in time, all of us leave the things that we have known and turn our eyes toward whatever it is that comes next.

At the end of “On Golden Pond,” Norman asks Ethel if she wants to say farewell to the pond. This time, as they stand by the water, he hears the sound that eluded him before. “Ethel, listen,” he says. “The loons. They’ve come around to say goodbye.”

Hepburn & Fonda (mubi.com)

Like Boylan, the Chief Penguin and I first saw On Golden Pond in 1981, the year it was released.  Then it was an engaging film about an older couple enjoying their cottage on the lake while working hard to entertain a 13-year-old soon to become their daughter’s stepson.  In 2021, it’s a poignant film that hits hard at the challenges and cruelties of getting old while simultaneously demonstrating the strength of a long marriage. 

 I have to say that these characters, Norman and Ethel, act older than many 70- and 80-year-olds do today.  Many of us are more active and in better health than folks were then. It’s noteworthy that this was Henry Fonda’s last film and Jane Fonda played his daughter Chelsea.  Their father-daughter relationship was better after the film. Although a bit dated, I still recommend On Golden Pond.

Complex Lives

Mare of Easttown (HBO via Apple TV $)

Winslet as Mare (tvline.com)

This seven-part crime series stars Kate Winslet as a small-town detective on hard times.  It’s set in a fictitious working-class town near Philadelphia.  Anyone who knows that area will recognize place names (Darby, Bryn Mawr) and a certain gritty quality in the streets of houses set cheek by jowl.  Detective Mare has a difficult home life.  Her aggrieved mother and her high school daughter live with her along with her young grandson Drew.  Drew’s father was Mare’s son Kevin, who committed suicide several years ago.  Several young women have gone missing or disappeared and another’s body is found in the woods.  Mare knows everyone in town and is alternately compassionate, brusque, and her own worst enemy.  

Initially, I was put off by the depressing quality of these townspeople’s lives.   I kept on and began to appreciate the depth and complexity of Mare, superbly played by Winslet.  In some ways, more than a crime series, this is a study of a community relationships and travails.  Recommended!

CULINARY CORNER

In the Bowl—Summer Soup

As part of reviewing our cookbook collection for recipes to scan, I came across a recipe for a tomato and berry gazpacho in Dorie Greenspan’s book, Everyday Dorie:  The Way I Cook.  I marked the page for scanning and then decided to serve it to friends.  I went online the next day to print out the recipe and it was not there!  Seems the Chief Penguin either missed it or made an executive decision.  In any case, I went ahead and made it and served it in small cups as a teaser with pre-dinner drinks.  I loved it, the guests liked it, and even the skeptic enjoyed it!

Greenspan uses cherry tomatoes and fresh strawberries and includes scallions, mint and basil leaves, chopped fresh ginger, lime juice, sherry vinegar, some olive oil, and either harissa powder or hot sauce to your taste.  I used some Tabasco in it and had it available for anyone who wanted more heat.  It was a luscious variation on traditional gazpacho with a hint of sweetness.

Dorie Greenspan’s recipe is not available online, but here’s a link to another strawberry-tomato version which has cucumber, jalapenos and honey.  Happy summertime!

Note: Header photo from On Golden Pond is from top100project.com

Tidy Tidbits: Of Roosevelts & Cookbooks

HAPPY 4TH OF JULY!

(aarp.org)

On this year’s Independence Day, there is much to celebrate. With the waning of the pandemic, we can be out and about and gather safely with friends and family.  Particularly if we are fully vaccinated.  We have been through a bruising few years.  It is heartening to now have a president who is compassionate, committed, and balanced, qualities sadly lacking before.  

Yet, we are a deeply polarized nation—witness the thousands of people who showed up at a Trump rally last night here in the neighboring town of Sarasota.  I would like to be optimistic that the ideals on which the United States is based, freedom and equal opportunity, will prevail, but fear that we will live through more contentious times until civility returns.  Nonetheless, I remain hopeful for the future.  Let’s celebrate today and cherish what is good in our society!

ER–COMPLEX AND COURAGEOUS WOMAN

Young Eleanor (nps.gov)

I am currently immersed in David Michaelis’s new biography of Eleanor Roosevelt entitled simply, Eleanor.  I am old enough to recall some of the news coverage when Eleanor Roosevelt died in 1962.  Over the years, I’ve read a number of books about Eleanor and Franklin Roosevelt, including one by Joseph Lash, as well as Blanche Wiesen Cook’s massive three volume biography of Eleanor.  I read good reviews of the Michaelis biography but did wonder how much new information it might contain.  A lot.  

With a decade’s research and access to new source materials, Michaelis presents an even fuller picture of Eleanor than Cook did.  Eleanor’s mother died when she was eight. Two years later her father, whom she idolized, also died.  Orphaned, she was raised by her grandmother, but always felt like an unwanted outsider and lacked self-esteem.  Belittled and berated by relatives for her height, her lack of beauty, and her stilted adult demeanor, it was several decades before Eleanor came into her own as a person of worth.  Early on she learned not to show any emotion, and this hindered how she dealt with Franklin and their five children.

Franklin and Eleanor were distant cousins, but a mismatched pair as husband and wife.  Both were needy in their own way; he always desirous of being the center of attention and more aligned with his mother Sara than his spouse.  Eleanor wanted to do something worthwhile and was frustrated by the strictures put upon her actions by her social class and the place of women in society overall.  She felt unacknowledged and unappreciated by Franklin and was devastated by the discovery of his affair with Lucy Mercer during WWI.

It is fascinating to learn how Eleanor came out of her shell, engaged with the wider world, found love, and ignored public opinion on the proper role of a First Lady. She jaunted around the country giving speeches and wrote a daily newspaper column.  She became an activist force and an ally to FDR when polio limited his mobility.

David Michaelis met Eleanor Roosevelt briefly when he was four years old, a meeting that made an indelible impression on him.  His book is engaging, candid about both ER’s and FDR’s flaws, and written in a lively, almost sprightly style.  Highly recommended!

COOKBOOK CULLING

An unexpected treasure!

The Chief Penguin and I own more than a hundred cookbooks.  They are titles we bought or gifts with the oldest ones from the early 1970’s (think Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking) through the 1980’s (Silver Palate) and 90’s to more recent publications.  We have several compendiums including multiple editions of Rombauer’s The Joy of Cooking; Mark Bittman’s How to Cook Everything; The Gourmet Cookbook and Gourmet Today; the French Bible of home cooking, I Know How to Cook; the Italian equivalent, The Silver Spoon; and one of my all-time favorites, Essentials of Italian Cooking by Marcella Hazan.  Plus, there are celebrity cookbooks by Daniel Boulud, Jacques Pepin, Nigella Lawson, Gordon Hamersley, Thomas Keller of French Laundry fame, Patricia Wells, Georges Perrier of Philadelphia’s Le Bec Fin, and Ottolenghi.  

Also, books dedicated to a particular cuisine such as Vietnamese or Chinese or a particular region of a country. We have a bunch of regional Italian cookbooks and several that focus on recipes from Paris bistros and cafes.  And last, but not least, a trove of baking books—breads, pastries, and cookies, the province of C.P.  A wealth of recipes.  What’s fun about this review is discovering notes on dishes I’ve made in the past, a trip down culinary lane.

Some years ago, Philadelphia hosted an annual Book and the Cook festival.  Chefs from restaurants around the U.S. were invited to the city and paired with a local chef.  Meals were jointly prepared by the two chefs.  It was a chance for elegant dining or casual fare with always a meet and greet with the guest chef.  You could bring or buy the featured cookbook and have it autographed.  We usually signed up for 2 or 3 events each year and often with our good friends Ellen and Bob.  

Two occasions stand out.  We four have fond memories of being warmly greeted at the dining room entrance by the statuesque Julia Child.  She later made the rounds of all the guests and inscribed her book for anyone who asked.  Although I like and make many of her recipes, Marcella Hazan was not a gracious guest chef.  She was brusque and did little in the way of schmoozing with the diners.  But these events were both notable for the food!

So, what has prompted this review of our cookbooks?  We have too many to be able to keep all of them when we ultimately move to a smaller place.  Consequently, starting with the older less used books, we are reviewing each one, marking recipes we’ve made or ones we like, and then scanning them.  

The Chief Penguin is the architect and executor of this project.  We both review the recipes, then he takes a photo on his iPhone via Scannable, and it gets sent to Evernote.  On Evernote, he’s created a folder for each cookbook with the cover image and then the recipes get filed with the book.  The beauty of this is that they are all searchable by ingredient, author/chef, and so forth.  This makes them available anywhere we have access to Evernote and will enable us to give away some of the cookbooks.  I’d love to find a local college or public library that would like them; failing that they may end up at Goodwill, my last resort.  

Movies, Mystery & More

WHAT A WONDERFUL WEEK!

The inauguration of Joe Biden as U.S. President and Kamala Harris as Vice-President was marvelous and memorable in so many ways. A reset in tone, a return to competence, a series of firsts, and the beginning of an administration more representative in gender, race, background, and experience than the previous one. Hooray!

ON THE SCREEN

SPACE EXPLORATION MEETS EARTH’S FRAGILITY

The Midnight Sky (Netflix)

Iris & Augustine (commonsensemedia.org)

George Clooney both directs and stars in this film about Augustine, a terminally ill scientist holed up at an Arctic Circle outpost. Simultaneously, a team in space is trying to return from an exoplanet, but there’s been a catastrophe on earth.   

There’s another story within the story about the young Augustine and a failed relationship that overlaps the present when a little girl is inadvertently left behind with him.  The visual effects are amazing, the space station elaborate, and the sense of hurtling through the universe quite real.

Given the risks faced by the astronauts, it’s surprisingly unsuspenseful and too slow moving.  Nonetheless, we watched it to the end and were rewarded with a slight twist which brings everything together.  Overall okay, not great.

HEAVY METAL VS. DISTORTED SOUND

Sound of Metal (Amazon Prime)

Riz Ahmed (apnews.com)

This film about a drummer in a heavy metal band who is losing his hearing can be painful, painful for the ears.  The entire film is captioned (for good reasons) and, the soundtrack sometimes is distorted and muffled as it conveys how Ruben experiences the world around him.  Initially refusing to accept his situation, but nudged by his girlfriend Lou, Ruben reluctantly agrees to become a resident of a deaf community.  I found this portion of the film with all of the sign language fascinating and an insightful look at how deaf culture can work.  Riz Ahmed, a British Pakistani actor, is superb taking on the challenging role of Ruben.  Recommended! 

ON THE PAGE

MYSTERY FUELED BY PODCAST

Conviction by Denise Mina

This was my first exposure to this author. I selected it for my book group because it was touted as one of the year’s best mysteries by the Washington PostNYT Book Review, and Publishers Weekly.  It’s a quirky book and much of the way, I didn’t much like it.  But several in the group loved it.

Anna McDonald’s husband leaves her for her best friend.  Devastated, she becomes obsessed with a true crime podcast that concerns a man, Leon Parker, whom she once knew slightly. Leon died when a yacht he and his family were on exploded.  Convinced that not all is true or right with the podcast, Anna goes on a quest to find answers.  She is joined by her neighbor Fin, a failed musician and her friend’s husband.  

They fly hither and thither across Europe checking out stories and interviewing possible relatives and suspects. All the while Fin is creating podcasts in response to the original one.  Anna is not who she has claimed to be, and her multiple identities unravel as they get deeper into their research.  

IN THE PAN

RECIPE REVIEW

Saucy Chicken Puttanesca

A plate of food

Description automatically generated with medium confidence

(bonappetit.com)

Since the start of the pandemic, the Chief Penguin and I have eaten many more meals at home.  That’s meant a reprise of favorite entrees from the past plus trotting out new dishes to try.  Most recently, I cooked this chicken puttanesca from the February 2021 issue of Bon Appetit.  

It’s fairly straightforward in that chicken legs or thighs (I used boneless thighs) are browned on the stove and then transferred in a skillet to the oven.  It combines some of my favorite ingredients: olives (black ones for us), capers, lemon zest, and tomato, with garlic and anchovies, to make a dish that’s greater than the sum of its parts.  The flavor is robustly bold and deeply satisfying.  I served it over egg noodles dressed with a bit of butter and some truffle oil.  A definite keeper, I will make it again.  Bon appetit!

Note: Header photo of Kamala Harris taking the oath of office from wionews.com