Category: Art

Tidy Tidbits: Reading, Watching, Enjoying

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READING—FASCINATING WOMAN

Gardner Portrait by John Singer Sargent, 1888 (Gardner Museum)

The Lioness of Boston by Emily Franklin

I’ve long been a list maker: lists of to-dos, lists of TV series and films to screen, lists of places to visit.  Before we moved from Cambridge, MA, many years ago, I made a list of things the Chief Penguin and I should do before we left.  I made a similar list of activities and outings in 2006 before we moved from six months in London back to the U.S.  On my list for Boston was a visit to the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum.  Filled with art and books, it’s a treasure trove of a collection.

Emily Franklin’s The Lioness of Boston is an intriguing portrait of Isabella Stewart Gardner.  Born in 1840, Isabella was an unconventional woman who wanted to do something significant, to be known as something other than a society wife.  Frustrated by the strictures of staid Boston’s social scene, she chafed at the retiring role she was expected to play.  Comfortably married to Jack Gardner, and then mother to a son, Belle still sought more outlets for her interests and her energy.  

She cultivated friendships with Charles Eliot Norton (first art history professor at Harvard), Henry James, Bernard Berenson, and others.  She got allowed into lectures at Harvard, began traveling abroad, and sat for John Singer Sargent for her portrait.  Her interests in rare books and art blossomed, and she became both a collector and a supporter of artists.  The museum she created is her legacy.

This is a novel, not a biography, and its narrative arc is shallow focusing primarily on Gardner’s friendships and relationships and imagining her interior life.  Leisurely paced and enjoyable!  Now I must make a return visit to Boston. (~JWFarrington)

VIEWING—FAVORITES RETURN

Chelsea Detective, Season 2 (Acorn)

Max & Layla (VitalThrills.com)

Detective Inspector Max Arnold who lives on a houseboat is back for another season, this time with a new sidekick.  DS Layla Walsh is much younger and keeps him on his toes.  Between solving a gruesome murder or two, Max remains entangled with separated wife Astrid (she’d like to get on with her life) and with his somewhat interfering, but doting Aunt Frances.  Set in the tonier section of London, it’s less gritty than other British crime series and as engaging for the human relationships as for the murders.  There are four episodes in the season.

Hidden Assets, Season 2 (Acorn TV & Roku)

Bibi Brannigan, Christian, Claire (TellyVisions.org)

This Irish crime series flips back and forth between the Criminal Assets Bureau (CAB) team in Limerick, Ireland, and the Counter Terrorist Unit (CTU) in Antwerp.  If you haven’t watched the first season, you should, as this is a continuation of an ongoing story of smuggled goods, bombs, murders, and the Belgian port. 

There is a new principal in Ireland, Claire Wallace, who replaces DS Emer Berry.  Emer had a solid working relationship with Christian De Jong, her counterpart in Antwerp. Now, Claire and Christian must forge a new partnership to be jointly successful.  The stakes are high, politicians are involved, and it’s fast paced.  I’ve now watched three of the six episodes.  Highly recommended!

HOLIDAY WEATHER

December is a month for socializing and parties.  This week we caught up with a friend over lunch at Mean Dean’s in Bradenton and celebrated a birthday dinner at another friend’s. On Saturday, we enjoyed our community holiday party—this year a brunch.  It was a lovely day.  The air was softly warm, and the sun was shining.  

From now until May, Florida weather is perfection.  If not perfect, then at least wonderful and magical much of the time.  No need for coats or jackets, gloves or hats, let alone boots.  Sandals and short sleeves will suffice.  Living here this season is a treat!

Note: Header photo is of the courtyard at the Gardner Museum, courtesy of the museum.

Italy: Medicis in Florence

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MICHELANGELO’S DAVID

First off, a detour from the Medicis to Michelangelo. The Chief Penguin got us tickets to the Accademia for Saturday to see David. Saturday morning was lovely, but it poured in the afternoon, which resulted in a long soggy walk there.  Our tickets were for 4:45 pm, but at 4:30, we weren’t sure we wanted more time standing in the rain, so we departed.   On Sunday, thanks to our guide Sasha, the CP got more tickets and then actually got in. He reminded me that the real David is very impressive in this well-lighted setting!

Michelangelo’s David (GCF)

MEDICI FAMILY

Yesterday morning was devoted to the Medici family and its generations of dukes and grand dukes, a powerful merchant family with strong ties to the church.  Two members of this family became popes, Leo X and Clement VII. 

Most people think of the Medici men like Cosimo and Lorenzo Medici, but in the 17th century, one woman ensured that the Medici art collection, with only a few exceptions, would remain in Florence forever. That woman was Anna Maria Luisa de Medici. She was the last lineal descendant of the main branch of Medicis. She had no children and was a patron of the arts. She’s represented in an impressive seated sculpture with a book on her lap in the lower level of the Medici Chapel.

Anna Maria Luisa de Medici

Our guide Sasha, a native of Denmark, but a resident of Italy for more than 30 years, was excellent with a lively manner and a sense of humor.  We put a lot of miles on our feet over several hours to visit the Medici Chapels, the Palazzo Medici Riccardi, and the San Marco Church. 

MEDICI CHAPELS

The Medici Chapels were our first stop, and there are two of them dating from the 16th and 17th centuries.  They are extensions to the Medici family’s official church, the Church of San Lorenzo.  Many might say that the décor of the huge church-like Chapel of the Princes is over the top.  Its colors are dark and somewhat somber, but the marble and and inlaid precious stone work is elaborate and very detailed. 

Altar in the Medici Chapel

 This chapel celebrates the grand dukes of the Medici family each with its own sarcophagus.  The men are actually buried elsewhere. Only two of the sarcophaguses have statues in the alcove above, that of Ferdinand who killed his younger brother and wife, and his son’s alcove.  The other alcoves remain empty and incomplete.

Statue of Ferdinand above his sarcophagus

This chapel was created in the 1600’s, but the intricate mosaic floor work wasn’t begun until 1874 and only completed in the 1960’s. The yellow marble is particularly striking. 

Rich colors of marble floor, Chapel of the Princes

The second chapel or mausoleum, called the New Sacristy, was designed by Michelangelo as a cube with a dome at the top. He oversaw its construction from 1520 to 1534. It is a complete contrast to the Chapel of Princes, in only black and white with sculptures of white marble.

Interior, New Sacristy

On opposite walls are two groups of marble statues.  In one, the Duke of Nemours , brother of Pope Leo X, is shown above his sarcophagus in military garb, while below are two reclining nudes, one a male representing day or awakening, and the other a female representing night.  These are powerful sculptures and dominate the space.

Figure of Night

On side wall is a Madonna grouping; Michelangelo sculpted the Virgin and child, but not the other two figures.

Michelangelo’s mother & infant

PALAZZO MEDICI RICCARDI

From here, we walked on to Palazzo Medici Riccardi.  This 15th century palace was the home of the Medicis and later bought by the Riccardi family, hence the name. 

Palazzo exterior with Medici coat of arms

It was designed by Michelozzo di Bartholomeo.  We stopped here to see the Magi Chapel with frescos by Benozzo Gozzoli and art by Flippo Lippi.  The colors on the frescos are vibrant even today.

Detail, Procession of the Magi (Gozzzoli)
Man in blue hat is Gozzoli
Adoration in the Forest (Lippi)

SAN MARCO CHURCH

Our last stop was San Marco Church. Originally founded in 1267 as a Benedictine monastery, it became home to Dominican monks of Fiesole some 150 years later due to Cosimo of Vecchio’s intervention.  Here we came to see the fresco, The Last Supper, by Domenico Ghirlandaio, painted in the late 15th century. Jesus is in the center with all but one apostle seated along his side; Judas is on the other side of the table facing Jesus. Despite what is to come, the scene is serene. (The photo below shows most, but not all of the fresco.)

We enjoyed our art-filled morning and came away with a greater appreciation for the Medicis’ power and influence and for the rich paintings and frescos they inspired.

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.) Header photo is the garden at Palazzo Medici Riccardi.

Italy: Arezzo to Pienza

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Arezzo at night

Yesterday was our last full day in Arezzo.  We’ve enjoyed being here and have had some of the best meals of the trip so far.  That’s partly the result of seeking out trattorias rather than cafes or pizzerias.  In Cortona, we had lunch in town, but took advantage of the tasty appetizers followed by cookies and vin santo offered at our hotel each evening.  They were a satisfactory substitute for dinner (one night augmented by a plate of meats and cheese) and spared us the steep walk up the hill and back in the dark.

FRESCOES IN ARREZO

Crucifix, chapel behind

In the morning, our enthusiastic guide Debora, native of Arezzo and a big booster of her city, took us to see Piero della Francesca’s marvelous frescoes in the Basilica of Saint Francis.  Created in the mid 15th century, the frescoes are in a small chapel named for the Bacci family tucked behind the sanctuary’s massive 13th century crucifix. They tell the Legend of the True Cross and are “read” beginning at the apex of the ceiling.

Frescoes on ceiling

The side walls relate to each other with some symmetry; there is a battle scene depicted on each side at the lowest level.

Battle scene close-up

The annuciation on the left rear wall is matched by Constantine’s dream scene on the right rear wall.

Annunciation
Constantine dream scene, depicting dawn light (previously thought to be a night scene)

There are missing patches on the images, but overall they are quite complete. It’s noteworthy that frescoes in churches were often whitewashed over; only much later, did restoration work reveal the art underneath.

For serious lovers of Renaissance art, these frescoes are worth a trip to Arezzo. Add in the duomo and the other historic architecture, and you can easily spend a day or two.

VAL D’ORCIA

Cypresses lining a driveway

Val D’Orcia, an extensive valley in southern Tuscany, is a protected park and since 2004, a World Heritage Site. There are olive trees and deciduous trees in this valley, but its hallmark are the tall pointed cypress trees. These cypresses appear on postcards and are a feature on several of the winding roads outside Pienza and elsewhere.

On our way to the Renaissance town of Pienza, birthplace of Pope Pius II, we made several stops along the road to take photos. The day was a mix of clouds and sun, making for pretty late morning light.

Greens and browns of Val d’Orcia landscape

PIENZA

Pienza main square

Pope Pius II returned to Pienza and remade the city into the architectural gem it still is today. With its beautiful Renaissance center, it became a UNESCO heritage site in 1996. It is a small town with one main thoroughfare between two city gates with narrow passageways branching off in both directions.

Pienza street view
City gate, Pienza

There are good views of the valley below from the city wall.

View from wall to valley

After our ride and our rambling through town, we enjoyed a delicious lunch at a Pienza trattoria. Besides olive oil, cheese is a local product, especially pecorino. There are several varieties and we sampled three, plus I had a lovely dish of gnocchi.

Gnocchi in Parmesan cream

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.) Header photo taken in Pienza.

Italy: Surprising Arezzo

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ARREZO’S PLACE

Panoramic view of historic Arezzo

We arrived in Arezzo yesterday for three nights.  Arezzo is not as much on the tourist circuit as Siena, Cortona, and other Tuscan towns.  In fact, Debora, our lively guide today, described Arezzo as “the ugly duckling.”  It’s a real city and much bigger than Siena or Cortona, but it has not had the same influx of tourists until recently; consequently, it isn’t as prepared to receive them well.  Hotels in the central district, not far from the magnificent duomo and other ancient buildings, are scarce and even a bit tired.

Monaco statue & city beyond

 Our hotel is in a great location opposite Guido Monaco’s statue with a view up Via del Corso toward the cathedral. Its rooftop terrace provided the wonderful panoramic view above.

Music theorist and monk, Monaco, who lived in the 10th century, was responsible for inventing the names for the notes on the scale: do, re, mi, fa, sol, la, ti, do.  Arezzo today celebrates music with festivals and the like. 

Town hall facade, Medici coat of arms in center

After many predictions of severe weather and rain, we had some spritzing followed by a steady real rain.  But we were able to enjoy a couple hours with Debora walking up the hill by the town hall to the impressive duomo. Later, we skirted a large park on our way to Piazza Grande with its mix of architecture from the medieval era to the Medicis to the Renaissance.  Arezzo was an Etruscan town, then Roman, then Medici and so on like others in Tuscany. 

DUOMO

Duomo from the rear

The Duomo was started in the 1300’s, but has had additions and renovations dating through the centuries up to the early 1900’s. It sits so high above the rest of the city that its sheer size as well as its position mean that it dominates the piazza.  It is dedicated to St. Donatus and in the interior is a 14th century arch named for him.  

Marble Arch of St. Donatus

There are also some lovely early 16th century stained glass windows whose intense reds and purples are still radiant today.

Stained glass, Arezzo Duomo

Pope Gregory X died in Arezzo in 1276 and there is a funerary monument to him from the 14th century.  The Chapel of the Madonna del Confort, about the size of a small church within the cathedral, offers a more intimate place for meditation. It was built beginning in 1796.  When we went in, the cathedral organ was playing, and it was peaceful and restful.  

Also of note here is a work by Pietro della Francesca, Mary Magdalene, from the 15th century. In bright colors and small details, she is portrayed with loose hair suggesting a prostitute, but also with a container of oil to wash the feet of Jesus.

Mary Magdalene

ROMAN ROOTS

Debora described the architecture of several buildings as being like lasagna, many layers of different styles.  It seemed an apt description, especially when later we popped into the Sugar Gallery through a 16th century archway and then walked on glass floors where only a foot below us were some beautiful stone mosaics. They belong to the Roman period. 

I liked this duck with its orange beak

 Lovely and preserved, over 2,000 years old, these mosaics looked fresh and contemporary. 

PIAZZA GRANDE

Piazza Grande

Piazza Grande is a true mix of styles with a row of flat medieval facades, the rounded apse of a church, a and a three level building with a clock tower whose layers span from medieval times to the Renaissance period. It’s a great slanted space with, of course, a café or two on the side.  

Medieval houses
In Piazza Grande
Santa Maria della Pieve

Twice a year, a jousting festival takes place in this piazza with participants on horseback from the four neighborhoods of Arezzo, competing against one another to hit a target. The piazza is called grand, and it is a grand and appealing space.

Tomorrow we will go into the Church of San Francesco to see the frescoes by Piero della Francesca.

Note:  All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)