Italy: Medicis in Florence

MICHELANGELO’S DAVID

First off, a detour from the Medicis to Michelangelo. The Chief Penguin got us tickets to the Accademia for Saturday to see David. Saturday morning was lovely, but it poured in the afternoon, which resulted in a long soggy walk there.  Our tickets were for 4:45 pm, but at 4:30, we weren’t sure we wanted more time standing in the rain, so we departed.   On Sunday, thanks to our guide Sasha, the CP got more tickets and then actually got in. He reminded me that the real David is very impressive in this well-lighted setting!

Michelangelo’s David (GCF)

MEDICI FAMILY

Yesterday morning was devoted to the Medici family and its generations of dukes and grand dukes, a powerful merchant family with strong ties to the church.  Two members of this family became popes, Leo X and Clement VII. 

Most people think of the Medici men like Cosimo and Lorenzo Medici, but in the 17th century, one woman ensured that the Medici art collection, with only a few exceptions, would remain in Florence forever. That woman was Anna Maria Luisa de Medici. She was the last lineal descendant of the main branch of Medicis. She had no children and was a patron of the arts. She’s represented in an impressive seated sculpture with a book on her lap in the lower level of the Medici Chapel.

Anna Maria Luisa de Medici

Our guide Sasha, a native of Denmark, but a resident of Italy for more than 30 years, was excellent with a lively manner and a sense of humor.  We put a lot of miles on our feet over several hours to visit the Medici Chapels, the Palazzo Medici Riccardi, and the San Marco Church. 

MEDICI CHAPELS

The Medici Chapels were our first stop, and there are two of them dating from the 16th and 17th centuries.  They are extensions to the Medici family’s official church, the Church of San Lorenzo.  Many might say that the décor of the huge church-like Chapel of the Princes is over the top.  Its colors are dark and somewhat somber, but the marble and and inlaid precious stone work is elaborate and very detailed. 

Altar in the Medici Chapel

 This chapel celebrates the grand dukes of the Medici family each with its own sarcophagus.  The men are actually buried elsewhere. Only two of the sarcophaguses have statues in the alcove above, that of Ferdinand who killed his younger brother and wife, and his son’s alcove.  The other alcoves remain empty and incomplete.

Statue of Ferdinand above his sarcophagus

This chapel was created in the 1600’s, but the intricate mosaic floor work wasn’t begun until 1874 and only completed in the 1960’s. The yellow marble is particularly striking. 

Rich colors of marble floor, Chapel of the Princes

The second chapel or mausoleum, called the New Sacristy, was designed by Michelangelo as a cube with a dome at the top. He oversaw its construction from 1520 to 1534. It is a complete contrast to the Chapel of Princes, in only black and white with sculptures of white marble.

Interior, New Sacristy

On opposite walls are two groups of marble statues.  In one, the Duke of Nemours , brother of Pope Leo X, is shown above his sarcophagus in military garb, while below are two reclining nudes, one a male representing day or awakening, and the other a female representing night.  These are powerful sculptures and dominate the space.

Figure of Night

On side wall is a Madonna grouping; Michelangelo sculpted the Virgin and child, but not the other two figures.

Michelangelo’s mother & infant

PALAZZO MEDICI RICCARDI

From here, we walked on to Palazzo Medici Riccardi.  This 15th century palace was the home of the Medicis and later bought by the Riccardi family, hence the name. 

Palazzo exterior with Medici coat of arms

It was designed by Michelozzo di Bartholomeo.  We stopped here to see the Magi Chapel with frescos by Benozzo Gozzoli and art by Flippo Lippi.  The colors on the frescos are vibrant even today.

Detail, Procession of the Magi (Gozzzoli)
Man in blue hat is Gozzoli
Adoration in the Forest (Lippi)

SAN MARCO CHURCH

Our last stop was San Marco Church. Originally founded in 1267 as a Benedictine monastery, it became home to Dominican monks of Fiesole some 150 years later due to Cosimo of Vecchio’s intervention.  Here we came to see the fresco, The Last Supper, by Domenico Ghirlandaio, painted in the late 15th century. Jesus is in the center with all but one apostle seated along his side; Judas is on the other side of the table facing Jesus. Despite what is to come, the scene is serene. (The photo below shows most, but not all of the fresco.)

We enjoyed our art-filled morning and came away with a greater appreciation for the Medicis’ power and influence and for the rich paintings and frescos they inspired.

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.) Header photo is the garden at Palazzo Medici Riccardi.

Italy: Fabulous Florence

MAIN SQUARE & DUOMO

David replica in main square

We’re re-discovering Florence and loving it!  Our first and only previous visit here was almost 50 years ago.  We wonder why we’ve not come back sooner.  Elegant and lively, not as overwhelming as Rome, and with its bridges, architecture, and marvelous art, it’s a gem.  Plus there’s a plethora of great small restaurants.

Fountain on edge of main square
Cathedral with its distinctive dome
Part of duomo facade

On Saturday, we were on our own.  We walked to the main square with the replica of Michelangelo’s David, joined the throngs outside the magnificent duomo or cathedral, and noted the nearby spurting fountain.  For me, the beauty of this duomo rivals that of Orvieto.

Detail of lovely marble on facade

I love the many shades of pink and rose and green marble and the intricate carvings. Begun in 1296, the cathedral was not completed until 1436. Given the long lines for entry, we did not go in, but rather just admired its exterior.

BAPTISTERY

We then went on to see the Florence Baptistery or Baptistery of St. John. This octagonal structure dates from 1059 and is the oldest monument in Florence. With its charcoal and white appearance and its many vertical and horizontal lines, it’s an attractive contrast to the duomo.

Florence Baptistery
Close up of baptistery facade

CITY VIEWS

Florence is magical and special almost any time and occasionally mysterious. It’s beautiful even in the rain.

Hotel terrace view after rain
Arched street in the dark
Nighttime reflections
End of a meal: cantucci & vin santo

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

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Italy: Surprising Arezzo

ARREZO’S PLACE

Panoramic view of historic Arezzo

We arrived in Arezzo yesterday for three nights.  Arezzo is not as much on the tourist circuit as Siena, Cortona, and other Tuscan towns.  In fact, Debora, our lively guide today, described Arezzo as “the ugly duckling.”  It’s a real city and much bigger than Siena or Cortona, but it has not had the same influx of tourists until recently; consequently, it isn’t as prepared to receive them well.  Hotels in the central district, not far from the magnificent duomo and other ancient buildings, are scarce and even a bit tired.

Monaco statue & city beyond

 Our hotel is in a great location opposite Guido Monaco’s statue with a view up Via del Corso toward the cathedral. Its rooftop terrace provided the wonderful panoramic view above.

Music theorist and monk, Monaco, who lived in the 10th century, was responsible for inventing the names for the notes on the scale: do, re, mi, fa, sol, la, ti, do.  Arezzo today celebrates music with festivals and the like. 

Town hall facade, Medici coat of arms in center

After many predictions of severe weather and rain, we had some spritzing followed by a steady real rain.  But we were able to enjoy a couple hours with Debora walking up the hill by the town hall to the impressive duomo. Later, we skirted a large park on our way to Piazza Grande with its mix of architecture from the medieval era to the Medicis to the Renaissance.  Arezzo was an Etruscan town, then Roman, then Medici and so on like others in Tuscany. 

DUOMO

Duomo from the rear

The Duomo was started in the 1300’s, but has had additions and renovations dating through the centuries up to the early 1900’s. It sits so high above the rest of the city that its sheer size as well as its position mean that it dominates the piazza.  It is dedicated to St. Donatus and in the interior is a 14th century arch named for him.  

Marble Arch of St. Donatus

There are also some lovely early 16th century stained glass windows whose intense reds and purples are still radiant today.

Stained glass, Arezzo Duomo

Pope Gregory X died in Arezzo in 1276 and there is a funerary monument to him from the 14th century.  The Chapel of the Madonna del Confort, about the size of a small church within the cathedral, offers a more intimate place for meditation. It was built beginning in 1796.  When we went in, the cathedral organ was playing, and it was peaceful and restful.  

Also of note here is a work by Pietro della Francesca, Mary Magdalene, from the 15th century. In bright colors and small details, she is portrayed with loose hair suggesting a prostitute, but also with a container of oil to wash the feet of Jesus.

Mary Magdalene

ROMAN ROOTS

Debora described the architecture of several buildings as being like lasagna, many layers of different styles.  It seemed an apt description, especially when later we popped into the Sugar Gallery through a 16th century archway and then walked on glass floors where only a foot below us were some beautiful stone mosaics. They belong to the Roman period. 

I liked this duck with its orange beak

 Lovely and preserved, over 2,000 years old, these mosaics looked fresh and contemporary. 

PIAZZA GRANDE

Piazza Grande

Piazza Grande is a true mix of styles with a row of flat medieval facades, the rounded apse of a church, a and a three level building with a clock tower whose layers span from medieval times to the Renaissance period. It’s a great slanted space with, of course, a café or two on the side.  

Medieval houses
In Piazza Grande
Santa Maria della Pieve

Twice a year, a jousting festival takes place in this piazza with participants on horseback from the four neighborhoods of Arezzo, competing against one another to hit a target. The piazza is called grand, and it is a grand and appealing space.

Tomorrow we will go into the Church of San Francesco to see the frescoes by Piero della Francesca.

Note:  All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Italy: Wandering Historic Cortona

SETTING

View from Cortona to mountains

Cortona is a town in Tuscany built on a hillside at an elevation of 2,000 feet. Some of its original walls remain and the architecture is primarily medieval. It was an Etruscan kingdom, then a Roman colony, then independent, and in the 15th century part of the Medici holdings. When Italy was united into one country, Cortona became part of Tuscany. At the highest points, there are good views toward large Lake Trasimeno.

Interesting arches and windows

We stayed at hotel down the hill from the town, a short walk up a fairly steep street to Garibaldi Piazza. From then on, this main thoroughfare is pretty flat and it’s a short walk past shops and eateries (wine bars, pizzerias, trattorias, and restaurants) to the Piazza della Repubblica, site of the town hall with its simple bell tower and clock.

Piazza della Repubblica

CHURCHES AND ART

Today, our guide was Giovanni, a proud native of Cortona whose family goes back to the 1300s. He was both funny and knowledgeable about the town’s history and its famous art and artists. In his spare time, he’s also a cabinetmaker.

On our walk before the town center, he spoke about the medieval buildings we passed. He pointed out the large doors for what were shops next to a narrow door, perhaps no longer a door, for entry into the house. The buildings have a flat surface and are often painted in the ochres, greens, and mustard shades one associates with Tuscany.

Our first stop was the Catterdrale di Santa Maria Assunta or the Cortona Cathedral, where we admired the Romanesque sanctuary and looked at an altar carved out of the softer Italian walnut.

Romanesque cathedral interior
Carved walnut altar

Next stop was the Diocesan Museum, a small museum of paintings by artists associated with Cortona. Of especial note are two works by Fra Angelico which I thought were stunning in their use of colors. One is the Annunciation and the other a Madonna grouping. There are some marvelous details in these paintings which my photos don’t show.

Annunciation, 1434-1436
Mary with infant Jesus

Another noteworthy artist is Luca Signorelli, a native of Corona, renowned for his rendering of human anatomy. One painting of his here is The Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary painted between 1519-1521. Giovanni asked us to note the delicacy of the hands and the folds in the golden robe. In the lower half, Mary is surrounded by the apostles. Here is the painting and then a close-up of part of it.

The Assumption… 1519-1521

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)